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The screw and nut is the pivot point for the three fingers. All three need to be touching the wheel when the angle is set. I put a few drops of lubricant on the jig to get it to slide smoothly

Many of them were my grandfathers tools.

My brother got the majority of my dad's tools. He did his apprenticeship in the 1910s but I got a few and have accumulates some others in the mean time. I seem to spend most of my time these days setting up my shed rather than doing actual woodwork!

Completely agree Ken. This is my default for most things. However, I do have an over abundance of wood working tools with harder steels which makes the diamond and CBN invaluable

I am considering a DF-200 for the planer blades.
It has been recommended by Tormek in their Video's for the T-8 - 4 years ago, when there were no diamond wheels for the T-4 - but I would like to learn from community members if that would be the right choice.

The DF is a perfect choice for HSS planer blades. If they are badly chipped then it may take some time to sharpen but for a resharpen only the DF is perfect.

I suspect that the tools in the videos are close to sharp already. Also, sometimes we can sharpen way beyond the point of sharp enough. Not an issue just a preference

Tormek recommend the fine side of the grader to dress the SJ wheel.

https://youtu.be/FirTgeSWYcw?si=zAW84HYGsfTeA45k

Saw this on FB. These guys have a 25% closing down sale on and they have a bunch 'o Tormek stuff

https://canadianpreparedness.com/collections/sharpening?fbclid=IwRlRTSANnl7NleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHugBxRsukMmknH2f8nL0GIm_Flogt5_FaHBTtDl7rXeJekvmA0By-uiIfCV8_aem_AKMEUwIUh3aoYGJFW2IPpw

The SVD-185,186,186R all come with a shaft specifically for rotary cutters, or am I confusing blades and jigs?

Mike

You are correct. Specifically designed for small carbide inserts but may also be used for round blades, depending.

The MSK-250 is stainless steel as well so a highly recommended upgrade. Also get yourself a tub or tube of white lithium grease for the shaft. I also always remove any sharpening wheels between sessions.

The only thing that matters is square across the cutting edge relative to the blade sides.

Absolutely agree!!!!

But, make sure the small square is square.

Again, excellent point! When I built my shed I was surprised as to how much of my metrology was not accurate. Always double and triple check your measuring tools before trusting them.

I always double check square with a small square as I start to ensure that the iron is being sharpened square. I never trust the jig to be perfect.

As a PS. I sharpen my Swiss army knife freehand on the SG. It is quite soft and I find it easy to sharpen but you may still wish to use the knife jig if you are not confident freehand

add the square edge jig if it seems like I need it.

You will need the SE jig for chisels and plane irons.

I started with a T7 second hand a started buying the kits. I then upgraded to the T8 anniversary edition and passed the T7 onto my son who is an avid woodworker.

My recommendation would be to buy the standard (not the custom) since that is the best value for money. It includes the SE-77 square edge jig, leather honing wheel, and the SG stone wheel. You can buy the custom but you will need to add whatever wheels and jigs you want.

As for extras I bought the three diamond wheels, the woodturners kit and the hand tool kit. The scissors jig, and the axe jig have been upgraded and the new number is HTK-1006 which covers knives, axes, short tools (some carving tools) and scissors. The wood turners kit, TNT-808  covers your most common turning tools and adds a couple of extra shaped honing wheels. I would also add the new knife angle setting jig, KS-123 sine it makes easy work of setting angles.

I also bought the Drill sharpening (DS-22) and the planer blade (SVH-320) attachments since I have a 15" floor planer with HSS blades and I do a lot of odd jobs and the drill bit attachment saves me a load of money on new HSS drills.

I need to add a note on wheels since this is important for the newcomer. The SG wheel is almuminium oxide and suitable for carbon steel, which includes most kitchen knives, chisels and plane irons. If you have any of the newer high end chisels or plane irons or turning tools which are HSS or specialty alloy steels such as PMV-11 then you will glaze the wheel. Some high end knives, such as some of the new Japanese knives are also too hard (MOHS) for the SG wheel. The SG wheel is not as hard (MOHS) as the steels you are trying to sharpen. My planer blades will not sharpen on the SG either since they are HSS (trust me - I tried). Not strictly true but it is a lot of work, takes a long time and you have to re0dress the stone every 30 seconds or so. At this stage you can take two routes. Buy the Tormek diamond wheels or go for CBN. There are some shops who supply CBN wheels but they are also quite expensive. Alternatively there are sellers on AliExpress who supply CBN wheels quite a lot cheaper, so long as you ensure that the description includes Tormek T7 or T8. I bought an 80G for less than 1/3 the price of the equivalent from a local supplier. In terms of performance and use the Diamond and CBN are pretty much identical on the Tormek sharpeners.

Finally I suggest that you watch all of the Tormek Innovation You Tube sharpening classes. They are a fount of information and will help you decide which accessories you want. Finally, don't get rid of your bench stones. You will find that they still have a use. Indeed I amusing mine constantly for flattening chisel backs, odd tools and refining the off plane iron or chisel edge.

I flatten on stones, not the Tormek. There was a question in one of the videos re using the stone wheel side. The answer was don't. The Diamond wheels on the other hand are designed so that you can use the side.