Messages

This could work - https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=5335.0

Hmmm, not sure that it is vitrified but I cannot see that it would damage the bond in any case.

A few thoughts.

Is the wheel on the machine the SG or the SJ? It is not clear from the photos. If it is the SJ then you will take forever to get a bevel. If it is the SG then do you have the grading stone to change the grit? You reshape the bevel with the coarse grade then finish with the fine grit and then if desired the SJ wheel.

If you ware having trouble holding the jig down then toy are using too much pressure on the knife. Let the wheel do the work. If so then it may be you are not regrading the SG to the coarse setting, see prev para.

My old T7 was a bit noisy, did not worry me too much. Also if the honing wheel has a bump then it is perfectly fine. The leather is not always perfectly smooth. That will not impact the honing.

Did you clean and grease the shaft? The recommended is white lithium. It is water resistant and really sticky. Remove the shaft, clean it with a rag and re-grease the bearings. It pays to repeat this every few months, especially if you are using it a lot.

As for the heat it can get quite hot without doing any damage but if the shaft is not properly lubricated and/or you are using too much pressure then it can put excessive load on the motor.

My first guess would be to use white lithium grease

This is what I would use. Very sticky and would not need reapplying all the time as much as a lighter product.

Hugo, Yes, I liked it very much. Just a thought, it may also be worth while scripting these videos. I know the "live style" videos are very attractive but scripting may make them more focused and the English more polished.

Tormek Innovation have just posted a new video on knife sharpening covering the T1, T2, and T8 using the KS-123.

https://youtu.be/b3xkBU2GjcE?si=GWBPOdFqzccr6gHC

It sounds to me like the old irons have lost their temper. If the steel is too soft then the burr will be difficult to remove.

Once you set the bar height for the first one make a note of the protrusion and set them all with the same protrusion.

It has a 1/2" arbor bore, so it would need a bushing to fit the Tormek 12mm shaft.  That is a difference of 0.472" vs 0.500", or 0.028" total and 0.014" wall thickness tube.  Good luck finding that.

That is 0.7mm or 0.35mm wall thickness.  Just get a 0.35mm shim of plastic.

Tormek do offer a 5,000 grit wheel, The SJ series. You can also get higher grit wheels from third parties to fit the Tormek.

I will hand hone on a ceramic bench stone if I want a finer edge. Usually on my quality bench chisels, Japanese knives, or Plane blades for finishing work such as my smoothing planes.

From the appearance it looks like Aluminium Oxide. This should be excellent for carbon steel but will not perform well on harder steels such as HSS, hard Japanese knives, or specialty steels. So it really depends on your application.

This is common since the knife may wear unevenly depending on the usage. It also depends on how the knife was sharpened previously. Even pressure throughout is best but with maybe a little less in the centre of the knife. Sharpen until you fell a burr along the whole length of the knife.  Also make sure you watch the Tormek Innovation videos on knife sharpening.

The grader is not included since it wears at a different rate to the wheel. How fast depends a lot on the use but you will typically get many wheels out of one grader. So in fact they are stopping you wasting your money.

Yes, small knife jig should work fine, but I find the small knife jig too fiddly so I end up doing things like pocket knives by had and get good results.

I would do that one freehand. You have to be very careful. I have years of practice under my belt though, so I am confident of a good outcome.