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My first guess would be to use white lithium grease

This is what I would use. Very sticky and would not need reapplying all the time as much as a lighter product.

Hugo, Yes, I liked it very much. Just a thought, it may also be worth while scripting these videos. I know the "live style" videos are very attractive but scripting may make them more focused and the English more polished.

Tormek Innovation have just posted a new video on knife sharpening covering the T1, T2, and T8 using the KS-123.

https://youtu.be/b3xkBU2GjcE?si=GWBPOdFqzccr6gHC

It sounds to me like the old irons have lost their temper. If the steel is too soft then the burr will be difficult to remove.

Once you set the bar height for the first one make a note of the protrusion and set them all with the same protrusion.

It has a 1/2" arbor bore, so it would need a bushing to fit the Tormek 12mm shaft.  That is a difference of 0.472" vs 0.500", or 0.028" total and 0.014" wall thickness tube.  Good luck finding that.

That is 0.7mm or 0.35mm wall thickness.  Just get a 0.35mm shim of plastic.

Tormek do offer a 5,000 grit wheel, The SJ series. You can also get higher grit wheels from third parties to fit the Tormek.

I will hand hone on a ceramic bench stone if I want a finer edge. Usually on my quality bench chisels, Japanese knives, or Plane blades for finishing work such as my smoothing planes.

From the appearance it looks like Aluminium Oxide. This should be excellent for carbon steel but will not perform well on harder steels such as HSS, hard Japanese knives, or specialty steels. So it really depends on your application.

This is common since the knife may wear unevenly depending on the usage. It also depends on how the knife was sharpened previously. Even pressure throughout is best but with maybe a little less in the centre of the knife. Sharpen until you fell a burr along the whole length of the knife.  Also make sure you watch the Tormek Innovation videos on knife sharpening.

The grader is not included since it wears at a different rate to the wheel. How fast depends a lot on the use but you will typically get many wheels out of one grader. So in fact they are stopping you wasting your money.

Yes, small knife jig should work fine, but I find the small knife jig too fiddly so I end up doing things like pocket knives by had and get good results.

I would do that one freehand. You have to be very careful. I have years of practice under my belt though, so I am confident of a good outcome.

My son raised the markings, paused the print, and changed the colour to help them stand out.

Sweet. Sent to my friendly 3D printer guy (AKA my son)!

Having said that I have wondered myself which standard they use. I assumed FEPA P since wheels generally use the bonded standard. You could ask them. Alternatively watch the next Tormek Innovation class and ask a question live. Probably not until next year.

As an aside I am preparing a new Tormek tip video diving into the science behind the regrading.