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I would use the SVD-110 tool rest. Draw a line across the wheel with a square then align the edge with this. Once you are happy with the angle draw another line onto the tool rest to align the knife so that you can maintain the proper angle. It may take some fine tuning to get it excactly right

As you sharpen, repeatedly check for squareness, and make adjustments as necessary.

Exactly. I use the small Tormek square, but I also have a small sliding bevel, 4" (150mm) which I can also use. It takes some practice but persistence and constantly checkin=ing until you are confident with the squareness is the key here.

Our mate Ken posted about this a while ago. See his post here

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,4570.0.html

T8 was not yet available 15 years ago

Sorry, it was a T7 dated 2011. My son now has it. I bought the T8 Anniversary but with my repairs and paint job the T7 is as good as new.

I'm curious, John. Where was the rust? Where the grindstone makes contact with the main shaft? Did the rust penetrate into the grindstone?

The rust was under the wheel. It did not extend into or past the bearing. The wheel was completely stuck to the shaft It was about 15 years old when I bought it and I suspect that it had never been removed. It was in a liquidation auction for a business. The rust did not penetrate into the wheel. There is a collar inside the hole which is part of the wheel, which stopped it. It only rusted where the wheel contacted the shaft. The bearings were also quite worn.

In hindsight I could have used vinegar to dissolve the rust and remove the wheel but it cracked when I tried to remove it.

So, I just removed the wheel, in case of any problems and all is fine

It will take a while to show. Also greasing will help.  I bought a second hand T8 that was about 15 years old. The SG wheel was rusted solid to the shaft. I suspect that it had never been removed.  I think if you remove it regularly you may be fine. I will continue to remove mine after every session thought

The reason I remove the grindstone between sessions is to prevent rust. The grindstone soaks up water and remains wet for hours if not days.

You can read about my adventures with a rusty main shaft here

Same. I bought a T8 second hand and it had the "stainless" shaft. The SG had rusted on and could not be removed. Alwas remove the wheel between sessions.

Two reasons.

The material used in the SG wheel is extremely porous and retains moisture for a long time after use. This moisture can cause the shaft to corrode. Note that stainless steel does not mean corrosion free. If subject to long periods of moisture then it can corrode as I can certainly attest. In addition if you are sharpening carbon steel these particles can collect on the shaft under the wheel and these will accelerate the corrosion process. Removing the wheel will prevent the shaft from corroding under the wheel.

As you grind some small grit particles can get trapped inside the nut and washer. If the wheel dries out, this can lock the nut and make it difficult to remove.

[MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft with EzyLock is a nice upgrade for that machine.]

The MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft with EzyLock is a nice upgrade for that machine.

Did that upgrade myself. Well worth the investment. Also put a dab if lithium grease on the bearings. Finally, always remove the wheel between sessions.

Also contact the supplier. They may be able to assist. Cannot hurt.

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened.

Agree. I have also found this to be the most effected approach.

used the emery cloth to clean the surface however this did not really help much

If it is the drive wheel then yes, I had the same issue. Abrasive is fine but I find a vert much better solutions is to use belt grip. It is used for drive belts for when they glaze and begin to slip. You can get it in a small pot or spray can. It is available from your local automotive store.

I remove the honing wheel. Place a paper towel or cloth under the shaft to catch the drips. Set the machine running. Spray a small amount onto the drive wheel. Turn the machine off and clean up the excess. I found t works a treat.

Is the composite wheel still usable,

You will be perfectly fine

I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending

It will also depend on the flute geometry. The flutes vary slightly depending on the exact design of the drill, say for wood, brass, ductile steel carbon steel &etc, and the manufacturer.

I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.

I experienced a consistent difference of 1 degree that the KS-123

You need to make sure that the jig is properly seated. If it is not properly seated it can vary a little.