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I experienced a consistent difference of 1 degree that the KS-123

You need to make sure that the jig is properly seated. If it is not properly seated it can vary a little.

perhaps I used too much of the Tormek supplied oil.

Tormek recommend that you use half of the supplied oil on the leather. If you use too much it just becomes oily. Not sure where the stickiness comes in but if you are only using the oils and honing compound you should be fine. I would not worry about it. It will settle in.

there is a bit of side to side wobble

Again, I would not worry. The hole is very slightly larger than the shaft. Tormek recommend that you tighten the nut label right side up so that it is always in the same position on the shaft but in any case there are few instances where it really matters. Knives and woodworking hand tools really makes no difference. There may be an obstruction in the bore so I would check for that.

As a reminder make sure that you lubricate the shaft where it passes through the bearings. Tormek recommend white lithium grease. It is particularly sticky and resists washing away with the water. I got a small tub from my local automotive store for a few $$.

Yeah, annoying. When I remember to, which is often not, I move the wheel out enough to reach in and touch the spacer to separate it from the wheel and then finish removing the wheel.

Same.

Not really. It does tend to stick to the wheel when you take it off.

I believe that the motors are voltage specific. I bought a voltage transformer from AliExpress for about AU$25. They are pretty low current devices so it does not require a high power rating.

If look look at the picture on the Tormek site here - https://tormek.com/en/products/honing-wheels/leather-honing-wheels/la-120-profiled-leather-honing-wheel - then you can see that you remove the nut from the honing wheel then screw the supplied extension onto the shaft. The honing wheels then fit to the end of the extension and the nut you removed earlier screws on the end of the extension to hold the honing wheels in place.

I'm taking it back to the store where I bought it and will ask for a replacement

Good idea.

Both directions work.

I do a mixture of jig and hand. Although no where near the skill of those mentioned I do edge leading with jigs and edge trailing freehand. It just seems to make sense.

This will be the thermal overload. It is designed to pick up any faults and not cause further damage. This is probably a leaky capacitor or fault in the motor. Tormek support will definitely sort you out.

it was already rather dry again when i applied the Ballistol

Yes. I probably would have given it (now I know!) a though clean with turps before applying the Ballistol.

Scissors need some roughness to cut effectively. If you strop then the edge is too smooth and the paper or cloth will tend to slip. This does not apply to secateurs or shears since they are cutting much more sturdy material.

The wood method will remove the burr without damaging the edge too much. Closing them would perhaps be too violent on the edge and tend to rip holes into the edge.

Not just any acid but citric acid. If the acid it too strong then you risk damage.

This can occur over time. I reshape the edge on a sander or fast grinder with the edge at right angles to the wheel then  once you have the correct overall shape go back to the Tomek and re-establish the bevel.

I'm not a fan of Ballistol ever since i used it on an air rifle and found that it polymerized into a translucent film

Never had that happen. I suspect it reacted to something that was on the rifle.

I just did a google AI search and if you apply Ballistol over other coatings or oils they can become gummy. So best to clean whatever it is you are trying to protect before applying Ballistol.

Very nice indeed. May I offer a suggestion? I discovered Ballistol a few years ago. This is a (IMHO) much better option than WD40 for rust prevention and lubrication in this application. It was developed in the early 1900s for us on guns (hence its name) for rust removal, cleaning, lubrication on metals, leather and wood. I use it regularly on my tools and would be perfect for your knives. It is more expensive that WD40 but I in my experience I much prefer it to WD40. I do keep WD40 in my toolbox so to speak but tend more towards Ballistol these days.