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If look look at the picture on the Tormek site here - https://tormek.com/en/products/honing-wheels/leather-honing-wheels/la-120-profiled-leather-honing-wheel - then you can see that you remove the nut from the honing wheel then screw the supplied extension onto the shaft. The honing wheels then fit to the end of the extension and the nut you removed earlier screws on the end of the extension to hold the honing wheels in place.

I'm taking it back to the store where I bought it and will ask for a replacement

Good idea.

Both directions work.

I do a mixture of jig and hand. Although no where near the skill of those mentioned I do edge leading with jigs and edge trailing freehand. It just seems to make sense.

This will be the thermal overload. It is designed to pick up any faults and not cause further damage. This is probably a leaky capacitor or fault in the motor. Tormek support will definitely sort you out.

it was already rather dry again when i applied the Ballistol

Yes. I probably would have given it (now I know!) a though clean with turps before applying the Ballistol.

Scissors need some roughness to cut effectively. If you strop then the edge is too smooth and the paper or cloth will tend to slip. This does not apply to secateurs or shears since they are cutting much more sturdy material.

The wood method will remove the burr without damaging the edge too much. Closing them would perhaps be too violent on the edge and tend to rip holes into the edge.

Not just any acid but citric acid. If the acid it too strong then you risk damage.

This can occur over time. I reshape the edge on a sander or fast grinder with the edge at right angles to the wheel then  once you have the correct overall shape go back to the Tomek and re-establish the bevel.

I'm not a fan of Ballistol ever since i used it on an air rifle and found that it polymerized into a translucent film

Never had that happen. I suspect it reacted to something that was on the rifle.

I just did a google AI search and if you apply Ballistol over other coatings or oils they can become gummy. So best to clean whatever it is you are trying to protect before applying Ballistol.

Very nice indeed. May I offer a suggestion? I discovered Ballistol a few years ago. This is a (IMHO) much better option than WD40 for rust prevention and lubrication in this application. It was developed in the early 1900s for us on guns (hence its name) for rust removal, cleaning, lubrication on metals, leather and wood. I use it regularly on my tools and would be perfect for your knives. It is more expensive that WD40 but I in my experience I much prefer it to WD40. I do keep WD40 in my toolbox so to speak but tend more towards Ballistol these days.

It is s good idea to watch the Tormek Innovation videos on their YouTube channel on knife sharpening. You need to keep the knife parallel to the USB and lift the handle when you get to the tip. Rotating the knife is what causes this.

I bought a T7 second hand (actually the wife picked it up at an auction for me) and the wheel was rusted solid on the stainless shaft. The wheel broke coming off. The shaft was also well worn. It looked like it had never been lubricated. In hindsight I could have taken it off with the correct technique but hindsight is marvellous.

I always remove the wheel after a sharpening session and have storage for all of the wheels to allow them to dry properly. I also keep the shaft well lubricated.

I have a draw knife which is similar in shape but longer. I don't bother with the machine, I sharpen it by hand. I hold the knife handle while drawing the stones along the blade.

John, do you measure the sharpening angle you achieve to compare it to the KS-123 setting?

No, but I do not get any hysteresis, which is the discussion I am commenting on. If I wind up a fraction the needle moves, if I wind down a fraction the needle moves.

I find that ensuring that all three pins are firmly on the wheel and the bar is held as indicated in the Tormek videos I can get the angle spot on.