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There are two schools. Frank Klausz clicks the bevel on the stone to find the angle and just hones in that position so he actually hones the bevel and the heel of the hollow.
Rob Cosman after finding the angle raises the blade a bit and doesn't touch the heel.

Both are experienced and skilled woodworkers and both are good options. Rob is a big proponent of these shortcuts such as the ruler trick and secondary bevel.

The traditional method is to not create a secondary bevel which was what I was taught. Older steels were softer carbon steel and you would take them back to the stone often, no stropping.  You would go back and forth between the bevel and back to remove the burr. It is only in recent years that the plethora of different and more sophisticated techniques has begun to arise. If you look at the older generation they tend to pretty much keep it simple. People such as Frank and Paul Sellars use the more straight forward and simpler methods.

I think that one of the reasons that secondary bevels has become so popular is the modern use of harder steels in chisels and planes where if you work on the primary bevel only it takes much longer.

I don't tend to use secondary bevels that much on the older tools but with the PMV-11, O2 and A2 steels it makes more sense to create a secondary bevel, remembering that it will take that much longer to create the primary bevel when needed. The other advantage of a secondary bevel is that it takes less skill to get a better edge, but of course that is moot when solely using the Tormek.

Having said all of that I do raise the tool rest up a turn or so when finishing on the DE, partly that the DE seems slightly larger than the DC and the DF and partly just to reduce the time to bring the edge to 1000G.

In the end it really is up to you as to which technique you feel most comfortable with. What you are trying to achieve is an intersection of co-planer surfaces and on your chisel with as flat a back as possible. There is a lot to be said for experimenting with different techniques until you find one or more that you are happy with. Also using different techniques for different tools and steels is also an option.

As a final note look up Paul Sellars videos on sharpening. What he does is pretty much how I was taught.

What kind of diamond wheel do you use? Coarse, fine or extrafine?

Depends really. If you re re-establishing your primary bevel Start with Coarse and go up to whatever grit you prefer. I move through DC to DF add DE then hand hone on a 5000 Shapton before stropping. It only takes a few strokes on the 5000.

Thank you so much, do you think 10 inch will work with T-4? Or I need to look 8 inch version?

Sorry - I missed that you have the T4. AFAIK all of the knockoffs are 10"

You could look for pre-loved SG 250 stones that are worn down but still in good condition.

There are a number of Tormek knock offs such as Wen. Any of them should be suitable. You may need to pack the bore which is 1/2" = 12.8mm as opposed to 12mm for the Tormek. A layer of blue tape may suffice.

https://wenproducts.com/products/4270-009-10-inch-wet-grinding-wheel

Your problem is that PM-V11 is harder than you Aluminium Oxide or corundum wheels. I have some PM-V11 and I sharpen them with Diamond wheels. Not sure why you have issues with diamond bench stones with PM-V11 - they should be fine. They will obviously take longer than lower hardness carbon steels but that is to be expected.

Your options are Silicon Carbide or the black stone, Diamond and CBN all of which are harder than PM-V11 and thus suitable for sharpening them.

The wheels you linked to is corundum, or Aluminium Oxide and thus too soft for PM-V11 - pretty much the same as the Tormek SG wheels.

Using plastic in the fingers is an excellent method since the tips of our fingers have a lot of nerve endings and are this sensitive to any movement or irregularities. The trick is light pressure. the more gently we hold it the more sensitive that method would be. Holding it too tight will swamp the nerve impulses and dampen any vibration. It is like looking for roughness, very gentle is the trick.

I did this and discovered a few things.

There are some 3D models here https://www.printables.com/model/394248-tormek-leather-honing-wheel-la-220-alternative

The pins on the wheel are very weak so maybe use a stronger filament or 100% infill around the pins. Mine broke off so I drilled them out and used short screws which work well.

The maker suggests epoxy or superglue. I would definitely not use superglue. I used contact cement which worked perfectly. He also appeared to use an angled butt joint - again, I would not do that.

I cut the leather slightly wider than the wheel and trimmed it to width after gluing it on using a skiving knife. As for the join I did an angled skive of about 15-20mm and overlapped so that the join faced away from the direction of rotation so that use would not cause it to lift up. The overlap was slightly bumpy so I laid the wheel on its side and used a skiving knife to trim it flat then used a sanding drum on the Dremel to sand it perfectly flat. I finally ran the tips of my fingers over the join to test its flatness.

After deburring on the wheel I actually use a flat hand strop with green compound to refine the edge and this seems to get the best results.

So my question is can I use that as is or I need to make it flat or I need to buy a separate tip? ($63), any tip for this one

The trueing tool is fine. It can be as rough as you like. It won't matter. Just take your time winding it across the wheel.

holder jig I have is a pretty short, can I use that one or I need to purchase the large one?

No you do not. The short jig is perfectly fine. The long jig is only for long flexible knives that bend too much as you sharpen them. I have sharpened many knives with mine and am yet to need to use the long jig.

I would recommend that you watch the Tomek videos on the Tormek Sharpening Innovation channel on YouTube. Start with the videos on the topics of most interest to you, for instance the one on knife sharpening.

If you have, or know someone with a 3D printer then you could get one of these printed for you.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791736

Tormek produit beaucoup de vidéos sur sa chaîne, Tormek Innovation et je crois qu'ils ont également des versions françaises de leurs vidéos. Recherchez leur vidéo sur l'affûtage des couteaux. Ils ont beaucoup de trucs et astuces pour aiguiser les couteaux.

I am not convinced.

In my experience motor overheating is affected by several factors. One is the load on the motor. If you are sharpening a lot of generic kitchen knives which only need a freshen up then the load will be low and unlikely to overheat. If you are doing some heavy lifting such as cleaver or reshaping or removing chips then the pressure will be higher and place more load on the machine. Another one is ambient temperature. If you are in the tens or teens then the motor is unlikely to overheat but if you in the high thirties then you are much more likely to overheat.

While the average home sharpener who is in a airconded or cooler environment mat never have an overheating issue. A professional in a warmer climate may run into issues.

A small Lee Nielson block plane blade took me more then 1,5 hours tonight.

What wheel are you using? These use A2 cryo steels. If you are using the SG then they will glaze your wheel in no time and you will have to continually re-dress your wheel. If you are using diamond or CBN then you should require less time, but honestly you probably need to start of on about 80G. In any case the SG is Aluminium Oxide and too soft for the steel.

You may run into issues if you get a surge of customers and the T-1 keeps shutting down to cool off.

That would definitely be inconvenient!

I use the SG for regular knives, carbon steel chisels, plane blades, and axes. For HSS plane blades, planer blades, chisels, and Japanese knives I use the diamond wheels. The SB would also be fine but I bought the diamond wheels.

Axminster in the UK sell them and they offer free shipping over certain value, not sure what it is in your currency.