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[MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft with EzyLock is a nice upgrade for that machine.]

The MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft with EzyLock is a nice upgrade for that machine.

Did that upgrade myself. Well worth the investment. Also put a dab if lithium grease on the bearings. Finally, always remove the wheel between sessions.

Also contact the supplier. They may be able to assist. Cannot hurt.

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened.

Agree. I have also found this to be the most effected approach.

used the emery cloth to clean the surface however this did not really help much

If it is the drive wheel then yes, I had the same issue. Abrasive is fine but I find a vert much better solutions is to use belt grip. It is used for drive belts for when they glaze and begin to slip. You can get it in a small pot or spray can. It is available from your local automotive store.

I remove the honing wheel. Place a paper towel or cloth under the shaft to catch the drips. Set the machine running. Spray a small amount onto the drive wheel. Turn the machine off and clean up the excess. I found t works a treat.

Is the composite wheel still usable,

You will be perfectly fine

I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending

It will also depend on the flute geometry. The flutes vary slightly depending on the exact design of the drill, say for wood, brass, ductile steel carbon steel &etc, and the manufacturer.

I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.

I experienced a consistent difference of 1 degree that the KS-123

You need to make sure that the jig is properly seated. If it is not properly seated it can vary a little.

perhaps I used too much of the Tormek supplied oil.

Tormek recommend that you use half of the supplied oil on the leather. If you use too much it just becomes oily. Not sure where the stickiness comes in but if you are only using the oils and honing compound you should be fine. I would not worry about it. It will settle in.

there is a bit of side to side wobble

Again, I would not worry. The hole is very slightly larger than the shaft. Tormek recommend that you tighten the nut label right side up so that it is always in the same position on the shaft but in any case there are few instances where it really matters. Knives and woodworking hand tools really makes no difference. There may be an obstruction in the bore so I would check for that.

As a reminder make sure that you lubricate the shaft where it passes through the bearings. Tormek recommend white lithium grease. It is particularly sticky and resists washing away with the water. I got a small tub from my local automotive store for a few $$.

Yeah, annoying. When I remember to, which is often not, I move the wheel out enough to reach in and touch the spacer to separate it from the wheel and then finish removing the wheel.

Same.

Not really. It does tend to stick to the wheel when you take it off.

I believe that the motors are voltage specific. I bought a voltage transformer from AliExpress for about AU$25. They are pretty low current devices so it does not require a high power rating.

If look look at the picture on the Tormek site here - https://tormek.com/en/products/honing-wheels/leather-honing-wheels/la-120-profiled-leather-honing-wheel - then you can see that you remove the nut from the honing wheel then screw the supplied extension onto the shaft. The honing wheels then fit to the end of the extension and the nut you removed earlier screws on the end of the extension to hold the honing wheels in place.

I'm taking it back to the store where I bought it and will ask for a replacement

Good idea.

Both directions work.

I do a mixture of jig and hand. Although no where near the skill of those mentioned I do edge leading with jigs and edge trailing freehand. It just seems to make sense.

This will be the thermal overload. It is designed to pick up any faults and not cause further damage. This is probably a leaky capacitor or fault in the motor. Tormek support will definitely sort you out.