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Messages - iSharpen

#1
Quote from: VijayDoshi on April 30, 2025, 05:30:05 AMI've posted on a couple of other threads, but I've developed a retrofit for the KJ to make it like an SVM. I'm a few iterations in now and am getting it really dialed in, including a friction ring for the knob. Take a look!

https://magnoliaknife.com/blogs/news/tormek-retrofit-blog-post



Do you ever plan on shipping these out of the US? Your last response was "no". I'm hoping you've changed your mind. Also, will you be machining the thumb cup in the holder so it matches the feel of the old jig? Or, can I at least screw my old top onto your shaft? Is it the same thread?



#2
Quote from: Ken S on October 03, 2024, 03:12:15 PMBaz and TGBTO,

Sometimes a good video will activate my "little gray cells". Your going an extra mile refining the convex grind makes me see the possibility of more refined convexing. I am not convinced about the practicality of rapid fire farmers market convex grinding. However, well controlled careful convexing might have a lot of potential, either for the sharpener/owner or a discriminating customer with a fine hunting knife.

I believe the keys to this control are allowing more grinding time with lighter pressure  and a finer stone AND consistent rhythm with the back and forth movement. "Fast or slow" is generally not consistent enough.

The great photographer, Ansel Adams, was also an accomplished pianist. He developed his large negatives in complete darkness. He kept a metronome in his darkroom to keep track of the developing time and insure consistent agitation. After some trial and error, the ticking of a metronome should insure consistency in the motion time. Adjusting the beats per minute would fine tune the consistency of the motion. Both mechanical and digital metronomes are very reasonably priced. Some of the digital metronomes are even USB rechargeable.


Ken

PS my next little gray cells thought is using the round collar lock of the SE-76/77 as an adjustable second stop with the SVM-45. That is in very early stages.

I agree, this is only an initial experiment. There must be a better way to do this although I was impressed that it worked at all. On my channel I've been dared to try to polish that knife with the SJ. It's a good idea for content if not for anything else.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with to refine this technique
#3
Don't worry, this isn't Facebook. I can tell it's convex because of it's shape. It might not come through on the video but it's definitely rounded.

I just wanted to give it a try as Tormek suggested. The results are actually pretty horrible and I'd never do this for a customer but at least it proves it can be done (sort of) on a Tormek.

I found the exercise interesting and there wasn't any detailed videos on how to use the (horrible) new knife jig to grind a convex edge so I thought I'd try it. Mostly to shut up the smart mouthed Facebook trolls. Thought maybe someone in here might get a kick out of it.

The fast moves are essential or it looks like a dog's breakfast with a million obvious facets. It was more of an experiment and exercise than a serious attempt at proper, decent knife sharpening. Barely more than a bit if fun really. A break from my normally serious videos.
#4
Had a go at convex grinding on the T8. Obviously I'm not an expert at it but a Facebook troll said it was impossible so I had to try - right?

It came out "ish" and with practice and refinement it'd be nicer. I'd love to try it on the Jap wheel. Imagine a perfect mirror convex grind. That'd squash the trolls and would look marty purdy.

I had a search around and couldn't find much in the topic apart from the French version that Tormek officially did. As atrocious as YouTube's translater is, just watching him do it was all I needed to give it a go. My biggest tip is "fast is better than slow". I made a short of me giggling when I floored it.

If I had to give myself a score out of 10, Id score myself a solid "at least he tried"  ;D

Enjoy...

Convex Grinding On A Tormek T8: Is It Really Possible?
#5
Here's how I do it and my thoughts.

First, the knife must be high quality. No point trying to achieve a 100 BESS with a Wiltshire knife. You'll need VG-10 or better. Global knives will get you there. My best BESS was a 52 on this brand new IKEA (of all things) VG-10 knife. I did have a video on the event before my original channel was taken down.

I can achieve a near 100 (or better) BESS on the standard SG wheel but I grade it using diamond plates. It's important to start rough to achieve a fresh apex so I start by dressing the SG with an 80 grit diamond plate. Then once I achieve a strong and definite burr I re-dress the wheel with a 32 grit diamond plate making sure to settle all the grain. I check with my thumb to make sure I don't feel any raised grains. Then I grind away as usual making sure I do my best work. A super acute angle isn't necessary. I achieved the 52 at 15 degrees per side as set with a (probably worn out) WM-200 so it was probably even a bit higher. I'm guessing 32 degrees total. I grind until I'm happy the entire bevel has been smoothes so probably at least 4-10 passes per side. No less than 4.

I don't use the Tormek paste though (and haven't for years). I do all my honing with green Chrome Oxide these days. I was frustrated for a long time until I realised I was pressing too hard and honing too much. I use a light touch at an increased angle than the bevel. I do all honing by hand. I first lay the knife down until it grips the wheel (signifying that I'm on the bevel) then raise it slightly so I'm only honing the apex.

I hone and check for burr by running the blade against my fingernail. I check early so I can still feel a bit of catching and only stop after all catching is gone but NO MORE! I used to continue on the strop which is made of super thin Kangaroo body leather on a wooden block but these days I hardly use the hard strop. If I can achieve a nice glide on my fingernail I stop and test on a Tally-Ho cigarette paper. If I can achieve "glidage" through the paper I know I'm at or close to 100-125.

Using this method, a super thin japanese (or chinese) knife made from good steel (VG-10 or equivalent) such as a global will achieve a very low BESS score. I think the biggest factor is not to over hone.

Hope that helps.

Note: I haven't achieved a better score or result using the SJ wheel than I've been able to achieve on a standard SG wheel graded to 960 using the Dr Vadim diamond plate method (which has been a real game changer for me). I'm a fan of the foam backed chinese 320 grit diamond plates.
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: ceramic knives with the S G
June 06, 2024, 09:06:27 PM
Quote from: Ken S on May 28, 2024, 04:55:10 AMThis surprised me. Thoughts?

https://youtu.be/u1mMoXjHWcQ?si=gAGpWFrQJulJnGBt

Ken



Only just found this. Don't worry, it surprised me too! Here's a bit more info.

I had a long discussion with the owner of the knife before he let me try. I set the SG to to about 960 grit (the fine setting) using the 320 grit diamond plate and started VERY gently as I was aware of the chipping issue. I was very surprised when I saw that the knife seemed to be accepting the grind so I continued ever so carefully and gingerly. I was using a super soft touch, expecting the knife to explode but nope. I was able to take a fairly chipped edge and turn it into a decent edge by treating it like a normal knife.

I didn't deburr as I couldn't detect a burr and it seemed to slice paper where as before it was tearing it and was useless as a fine slicer. It wasn't razor sharp though and he was happy to take it away vastly improved. The chips (damage) weren't large but there we very visible and numerous. I wish I'd take a video before I started but I really didn't expect it to work and just started grinding it as he was there watching. It was only after I had achieved a result that I knew I had to share it on YouTube. The edge as presented resembled a misused global edge if that makes sense.

I assure you all there was no trickery and my surprise (although slightly bombastic and cringey) was genuine. I caught some flack in the comments but I can assure you it worked. My advise, start with a smooth wheel and push down only just enough to maintain contacts on the wheel but yes, the SG wheel can "sharpen" ceramic knives. I love the SG wheel.

Quote from: tgbto on May 28, 2024, 11:13:57 AMA little info about the knife would help.

It was a Kyocera INNOVATIONblackĀ® Knife similar to this although I don't remember a soft handle.
https://cutlery.kyocera.com/innovation-soft-grip-3-ceramic-paring-knife-black-z212-blade
#7
Quote from: VijayDoshi on May 15, 2024, 07:37:04 AMHi folks,

I've developed a retrofit for the KJ-45 to make it more like the SVM. If you, like me are frustrated with the KJs, take a look! I also made the shaft longer and used a standard vs ACME thread.

https://magnoliaknife.com/products/tormek-kj-45-adjustable-retrofit

I love this! I hate the new KJ jig. My thumb has nowhere to sit. It's used to sitting in the "cup". The new jig has ruined the feel for me. I have a lot of muscle (thumb?) memory and I don't need this unnecessary disruption to my work flow. Plus, I hate plastic. I sharpen thousands of knives a year so I'm trying to buy ALL remaining KJ jigs on planet earth (kidding) in an unreasonable panic.

I'd love if the thumb rest actually emulates the "cup" feel instead of the flat surface that yours seems to be but it's better than nothing. I've left a comment on your video. I hope you can ship one to Australia as your cart won't allow it. Hoping we can solve this.