Messages

Hi Ken,

Thank you for the detailed reply. I use the tormek for either damaged edges or when the secondary bevel gets too big and need to grind back to the primary angle.

I have two sets of chisels (8 in total). I set for bench work and one set for dovetails. I have about 8 hand planes (I've culled a few, left with what I believe are the essentials). I do detailed woodwork so i like having specialty tools where needed.

I've had a few plane irons recently where I purchased second hand planes and the previous owner had attempted to grind a bevel and it was all over the place. I had to completely grind back to 25 degrees and it took me a very long time. I use the grading tool (course) regularly when grinding. And also i do change to fine when I've achieved the desired angle.

I have tried sharpening totally on the tormek, and results were excellent. I really like the leather wheel, gives a nice finish. But i haven't done a side by side comparison with the shapton stones also. That's a good tip!

I'd like to get a diamond or CBN wheel and I've ready there faster than the standard wheel. The idea of being able to reestablish a primary bevel quickly is very appealing.

Thanks again

Hey all, thinking of buying a course diamond wheel. I mainly only use my tormek for grinding primary bevels back to 25 degrees on my plane and chisel irons (repairing dents etc also). I find the standard wheel a bit slow, will I see much improvement in speed with the course diamond wheel? Many thanks!

Hi all,

I'm a new member here. Just wanted to say thank you for having me, I've been a long term lurker here.

So I've got a T7 with the SE 76 jig to use to grind primary bevels on my plane irons and chisels when the secondary bevel gets too big or damaged. From the tormek I'll use my shapton stones to hone the primary bevel.

I jumped straight into it and attempted to grind a 50mm wide plane iron at 25 degrees. After a while I noticed it was not grinding one corner of the plane. The wheel is square, I'm pretty certain I applied even finger pressure so I assume it's out of square in the SE 76.

So I tried to compensate by undoing the knobs on the SE 76 and angle it to make it cut square. The issue is it's a real hit and miss, I either loosen it so much that I got too far in one direction, or it's not enough.

How do others micro adjust the SE 76. I started looking at the upgraded SE 77 which appears it does have micro adjust?

And how should I grind the plane iron to get it back to square. Should I grind one edge more then the other and keep checking with a square to ensure I'm fixing the problem?

Many thanks in advance.