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Thanks for the feedback. I have sharpened my roughing gouge several times since I got it about 2 weeeks ago using the SVS-38 jig. It seems to work well with this 3/4" gouge; luckily for me since I don't have to spend $80 on another Tormek jig.

I have used it both on my Tormek with a 600 grit Tormek diamond wheel and my CBN wheels on my Rikon slow speed, one of which has a Tormek tool rest mounted. It works on either one. While the gouge seems to be equally sharp on either, it seems to stay sharp longer on the Tormek diamond wheel (I suppose since the grit is finer.) However, it's much faster on the Rikon so I usually do it on there. Either will usually make the sharpening last long enough to get the job done for the piece I'm working on.

Thanks again for the feedback.

Is there any reason that the Short Tool Jig SVS-38 can't be used to sharpen a roughing gouge? My 3/4" roughing gouge fits in the jig. I've tried it and it appears to do the job correctly. You just need to match the current angle and adjust the position of the jig on the gouge to match it.

I realize that the recommended roughing gouge jig is the SVS-50 Multi-Tool but, since the roughing gouge fits in the Short Tool Jig, there doesn't seem to be a good reason to buy another jig.

I'd appreciate some feedback on whether I'm correct or not.

I have cleaned my diamond wheels just as I would my flat diamon sharpening plates. The flat plates require much more cleaning maintenance than the wheels. I use one of the non-abrasive cleaners with a wire brush and water. Bon ami is one cleaner that is safe. Barkeepers Friend is another. They work well. My Tormek diamond wheels don't require a lot of cleaning since I mainly use them for sharpening turning tools which is mostly just touch up.

When Tormek made diamond wheels available, I bought both the 300 and 600 grits. I mostly use the 600 grit wheel for maintenance of my bowl gouges and scrapers. The setup is quick, completely repeatable, and, with the 600 grit diamond wheel, the edge is sharp and more refined than the surface resulting from what most turners use to sharpen; anywhere from 120 - 220 grit wheels.

My new Rikon 8" grinder is equipped with CBN wheels, both 1 1/2" wide; one 80 grit and one 180 grit. Having tested the 180 grit on my scrapers with the SVD-110 on the BGM-100, the result was excellent and fast; a nice burr on the edge (although I tend to re-create the burr by hand later. However, I was able to get the exact bottom angle on my NR scrapers that I wanted. I suspect the purchase of an 80 grit wheel was likely a waste as the result was achieved very fast with the 180 grit. However, with the 80 and 180 grit CBN's and the 300 and 600 diamonds I was going for a range of grits.

My new grinder will have a second tool rest; the Lee Valley (Veritas) rest which I'm now mounting. Between that and the BGM I suspect I can handle almost anything I need to shape or sharpen.

Initially my expectations were based on what I saw on YouTube from Tormek staff and Nick Agar concerning repeatability between the 8" wheel with a BFM and the Tormek. In retrospect those videos created unrealistic expectations. I would agree that the way I have my BGM mounted in relation to the 180 grit wheel yields a result that is very close to what I would get from the Tormek with my gouge jig and the diamond wheel; close enough that finishing the sharpening on the Tormek would yield exactly what I want. I would also agree that it may well be impossible to get the same exact profile on an 8" versus a 10" wheel. Because all the wheels are either diamond or CBN, reduction in diameter will likely never be a problem for me so once something is set and I can leave it setup it should stay correct.

Since I did buy the Rikon for easy rough shaping and possibly some additional rough work with my bench chisels I think they will serve my needs. Mostly this post was prompted by my interest in determining whether I had actually mounted the BGM with my Rikon grinder correctly. I think I'm satisfied that I have mounted it so that it will function as I intended.

But, anyway, thanks for all the feedback. It has been very helpful.

I just happened to see the section of an October, 2022 post Rich Colvin quoted below:

"Last note, if you are looking to change the shape of the tool, consider getting the BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Set.  That will allow you to use your bench grinder's fast cutting action to quickly set the shape using the same setup (USB and Grinding Jig) you will use on the Tormek.  Then you can move back to the Tormek and sharpen the new shape.  I use that approach often.  Only caveat is to be slow on the high-speed grinder if you are sharpening tools which are not high speed steel.  You don't want to remove the temper from the steel."

This would indicate that my original expectation is correct. However, since the wheel diameter on the Tormek machine versus the 8" grinder is different, does this post mean the actual result won't be exact when moved between the two setups? Maybe the basic profile is the same but the final sharpening would change the actual profile slightly when done on the Tormek?

Normally I would agree with the wheel diameter argument and, I would guess that the 8" wheel would produce a bevel that is a tiny bit more concave. However, the reason I believed differently is a video online which I think is by either Tormek or Nick Agar which actually demonstrates the compatibility of the two systems for sharpening gouges using both the BGM-100 as the tool rest, SVD-186 to hold the gouge, and finally the TTS-100 to set the distance.The result of that video is that you can move freely back and forth and get the same result. In practice, for me at least, since I already use my Tormek to maintain the edge on my gouges (and other turning tools), the Rikon grinder with 8" wheels would almost always be used to change a profile, etc. In fact the 2 wheels on the Rikon 8" are 80 grit and and 180 grit with the coarsest grit of my Tormek diamond wheels is 300 with the 600 grit diamond wheel being the one I use to touch up gouges while turning. I am really just trying to be sure that, in fact, the new grinder/wheels/BGM-100 is actually mounted correctly. It's been a little more complicated and less easy than I thought it would  be.

You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment. 

Two pics . . .One is the overall grinder installation with the BMG-100 installed, the other showing (not very well) that the resulting grind will not be exactly as it is off my Tormek. The pic is supposed to show  that the black marker I used to color the bevel isn't rubbing off over the entire bevel, thus changing the angle slightly. The marker was rubbed off near the cutting edge but not toward the bottom of the bevel. This will change the angle slightly, admittedly probably not significantly. However, the whole point, based on the BMG's description, is to allow the user to create exactly the same bevel on both the Tormek and the 8" grinder using the BMG as a tool rest.

The instructions in the BMG-100 manual are really not completely clear on exactly where to mount the base, leaving some things to, more or less, "deduction".

It seems I can't figure out how to attach pictures.

I use my Tormek SuperGrind 2000 with the SVD186 and a diamond wheel to sharpen my bowl gouges. I recently puchased an 8" set of CBN wheels mounted on a slow-speed grinder and a BGM-100. The reason I bought the BGM-100 was to be sure that I would match the grind from my Tormek with the 8" grinder. I have installed the BGM-100 on a plywood platform and have attempted to follow the instructions in the manual provided with the BGM-100. Unfortunately the result was that there isn't a direct match of angles between the Tormek and the 8" grinder/BGM-100. I use the TTS-100 to set both the Tormek and the 8" grinding wheels up, but they don't yield the same result. I assume it has something to with the mounting of the BGM-100 in relation to the 8" grinding wheels but I don't know what to change to correct the problem since I believe I followed Tormek's instructions when mounting the BGM-100. Does anyone know what the solution is?

You don't specify if you are using your diamond wheels with ACC solution or dry. The ACC solution will keep your wheels cleaner.

Here is a link to a Knife Grinders you tube describing a method of mounting two grinding wheels on your SuperGrind 2000. Please note that this method is not sanctioned by Tormek:

https://youtu.be/BAhgVmQoeiA

Ken

I have never used my diamond wheels dry. I followed the recommendations (or requirements) issued by Tormek and used the Tormek Anti-Corrosion solution mixed the specified proportion to water in the well. I have used my 600 grit diamond wheel for about 2 years (or however long they've been available). It's only recently that this wheel has showed what appears to be residue from steel in lines on the surface of the wheel. I use a wire brush on a diamond lapping plate to clean it, but wasn't sure whether that was OK to use on the Tormek diamond wheels. I was hoping Tormek would respond to my email on these questions,  but they have not so far. I did see that video already but not real interested in that method. I was hoping that Tormek would have something like a longer shaft to accomplish this, but I suspected it was likely they didn't approve of 2 grinding wheels mounted on the machine.

I own 2 Tormek diamond wheels for my SuperGrind 2000. I have the following questions:

1. I noticed some grayish lines on the 600 grit wheel which I use most often - to sharpen turning tools. I assume these are due to steel residue which remains on the wheel. What is the best way to clean Tormek diamond wheels to get this residue off?

2. Since I have both a 300 and 600 grit wheel and don't use the leather honing wheel, is there a way to mount both the diamond wheels simultaneously, installing the 300 grit wheel in place of the leather honinge wheel?