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I made a similar jig using an adjustable projection base.

I'm really curious if there's a way to figure the angle using a projection distance. I use the black marker along the blade and adjust accordingly. I don't think I know of a way to sharpen to a given angle. How would I know if I'm at 15 or 20 degrees?

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I was all up in the air with regard to what to use and when. Some knives worked some didn't. I just read Knife Deburring (this is the first time I actually read it and didn't leaf through it) with particular attention to the type of material of the knife. I would encourage everyone to go through his book as I seem to pick up a bunch. Dr Kraitchuk said the leather wheels work well with the paste but are too soft for the higher hardness knives which require diamond microns. The felt, on the other hand, is sprayed with the diamond solution and let to dry throughly prior to using. I tried this approach and had some surprising success. Additional insight is given on the concept of negative and positive burrs, how they occur and how best to remove. Honestly I was clueless prior to reading his book. I think I even missed this the first or second time I leafed through picking up what I thought were the important parts.

here's the photo

Thank you for the reply and photos. I've been wondering how people do freehand and maintain any accuracy when sharpening. I started thinking (probably the wrong thing to do at my age) the difference between angle when it comes to the contact point on the wheel. Assuming your holding the blade flat and parallel to the ground the contact point between angles is damn small, as in ~2.2 mm per deg. I cut out a piece of wood to and marked where the 13°, 15°, 16° and 17° contact points would be. I must say, you have to have one helluva muscle memory control to hold the line. Sometime I just need to look at the big picture and remind myself, I'm just after a sharp knife to cut the vegetables, fish and meat.

Rick,
I noticed your using a laser to mark the proper angle that you've set or determined for the knife. Where did you get the holder and laser to mount on the USB? I very much like your approach.

When you get your microscope check very carefully that you are actually grinding to the edge. I found myself early on looking at the shiny part of the bevel thinking the edge was included and spent more than my fair share of effort just grinding away the bevel (not the edge) because my angle was too flat. Once I increased my angle and noticed I was on the edge the burr "happened".

I've had all the wheels that Knife Grinders supplied and must say I loved the rounded corners. Recently I purchased some Resin Bond Diamond Grinding wheels of grit size 100, 1000, 2000 and a neoprene 5mm thick strop wheel coated with Tormek honing paste for deburring. I was a bit apprehensive going from 100 to 1000 grit in case of premature wear, however, I was told when I purchased the wheels, they were good for 30,000 knives each and the wear would be negligible on the wheels and there was no need for the intermediate grits. After approximately 500+ knives the wheels have shown no reduction in diameter using a pi tape to determine wear. I do run the wheels in water so as not to temper the edges. So far, I'mm very pleased with the performance as compared to the other wheels - diamond, stone and CBN used to date.

I'm curious as to what results you get? is it comparable to the spool? Now I'm going to go out and purchase for my own use. Thank you. Very Clever!!!

very informative, thank you. I appreciated the difference between the clip and wire spool as I never knew that.

Rick & Ken, thank you

Drilon and John, thank you. Somehow I never saw the device on the German site.

Thank you, I shall try.

I've noticed the reading from the BESS measurement device vary according to the rate at which I move when cutting the wire. Quickly cut against the wire and the results show a much sharper knife. I was wondering if anyone made a device with which the knife could be mounted, such as the magnetic one from Schlelfjunkies, however, have it connected to a manual or motorized device which lowers at a constant uniform speed.
Mostly I just sharpen to get a knife usable in the kitchen and or boat. There are times though when I like to "Putz" around and see if a new technique produces better results. If someone or company does make such a device I would be more than thankful for that information.
Thank you for your time.

I couldn't agree more with your comments. I have two T8's and struggle with the setup and adjustment of the support bar for proper angle alignment. Started using the T2 with a black magic marker and results were outstanding. Purchased the coarse and fine grit wheels to compliment the 600 grit supplied wheel and now use it as my go to sharpener for bulk or house knifes where I want to get a nice edge quickly.

Well said Ken, if you haven't been using your T2, honestly give it a try, you'll be impressed.