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I've seen the ads, and it's a ridiculous idea in my opinion.  Even if they are using titanium, and it's nominally softer than most hardened steel, it's still going to dull a knife faster than wood or plastic due to adhesive wear.

Thanks, tgbto.  It does makes sense to try edge leading next time.  I'll say that I've become wary of trying to assign reasons for the results I get after spending time at the Science of Sharp website.  I think a lot of times we're just fitting a theory to match our results.  I'm more inclined just to try a bunch of different things, see how they work, and roll with what seems to work best.  I'll leave the whys to the guy with the scanning electron microscope.   

The main reason I use CBN wheels is because I primarily sharpen super steels with high vanadium carbide content.  It's possible to sharpen such knives with the SG, but not ideal as the abrasive in the wheel is softer than the carbides in the blades.

I think it's caused by undergrinding the heel of the blade, primarily.  Paradoxically, I found I could eliminate the problem by starting at the point where the dip is, going back to the heel, and then going forward to the tip.  That way you're hitting the heel twice per pass and the rest of the blade only once.  In the alterative, just spend a little more time at the heel section.

That's an awesome result, kwakster.

I just finished shooting a video of my first attempt at ceramic sharpening.  It was a mid-grade Kyocera utility knife.  Average of five BESS readings at start was 302.  I sharpened at the factory angle (13 dps) on a worn 1000 grit CBN wheel, edge trailing. 

After going for a while I wasn't sure if I was removing chips or adding new ones, so I stopped.  At that point, the average BESS reading was 268, so bit of an improvement, and the readings were less variable than before.

Next, I honed at the same angle on a Ken Onion with blade grinder, using a leather belt with 6.5 micron diamond.  After that I was getting scores in the 120-135 range.

Next, I repeated with a leather belt with 2 micron diamond, which brought the scores down to the 70-85g range! 

Everything I did after that made my scores worse.  That consisted of honing on 1 micron and then .25 micron diamond, which brought the score up to 153, average of five readings. 

I subsequently went back to 6.5 micron and then 2 micron, which got me under 100 again.

Video should go up on YT in the next day or two.

I generally prefer to clamp parallel to the straight section of a chef's knife.  That way, the majority of the blade will be at the desired angle, and the belly/tip will get a higher angle which tends to keep the bevel width more uniform and adds more edge stability where it's most needed.

My BESS tester video:

I guess the fixed rate jigs provide the ultimate reliability, but I find that my results are highly repeatable if I just follow Edge on Up's instructions and go slowly enough to see the numbers advancing one by one.  I'd say it should take a minimum of 3-4 seconds, even for a very sharp knife.

From the manual:

"Remember Slow and Easy! We're not chopping carrots (at least not yet!) but measuring the sharpness of an edge. Your downward movement with the knife should be slow and deliberate. Try to find a seated position with arms resting on the worktop for greater control and stability. If you can clearly see the increase in force tick upward on the display either in 5 or 25 gram increments (depending on the instrument you have purchased) then you know that you have taken the measurement correctly. When the test media severs, the measurement is complete and your BESS score for that edge will be shown on the display."

I've read somewhere on a forum that when running to CBN wheels at one time on a tarmac that the machine definitely slows down almost to a crawled rotation. As if the T8 does not have enough torque to spin to heavyweight wheels. Although there have been others who have stated, while having a diamond wheel on the left and the lesser weighted spartan plastic core wheel on the right that there was no issue with slowness of spin.

Hanns has stated to me that this will not be an issue when running to CBNs on one T8 with the extended bolt at one time.

This is almost certainly caused by water dripping onto the rubber drive wheel, rather than a lack of sufficient motor torque.  If the drive wheel gets wet, it causes the drive shaft to slip, which seems like a torque issue if you don't understand what's happened.  I use a 3D printed guard over the drive wheel to minimize the issue, but it still happens occasionally.  Then it's just a matter of drying off the wheel with a rag or paper towel.

I certainly watched the first one also maybe even the second. Very informative I love his style of simplicity and more, so damn his patience.

Also, the kangaroo tail strops. Oh my God. But damn unfortunately, with all the regulations concerning those tails, they can only be shipped within Australia. Because I'd certainly buy a couple of the doctors recommended size in length which may have been 24 or 26 inches by about 6 inches wide.

Anyway, somehow, I've gotta find a way to get them to Canada.
With all those damn regulations.

Talking about this, I wonder why, even if it was locally made and sold in Australia, why haven't they ever made kangaroo tail adhered to a Tormek styled wheel?
And not necessarily a Tormek style But for any grinder type.

I get it may be more expensive I gather, but how I'm sure there's enough of us crazies that would really consider it.

Anyway, thank you Ken.

I managed to buy a kangaroo tail strop on Ebay.  Also got a separate loose piece from Etsy.  I'm finding to be good, if not quite the miracle that some make them out to be.  Very good for initial deburring and for touching up knives with "drawer rust."  Adds a little refinement as a last stop after a loaded strop.  I've used them to replace the Flitz-loaded denim strop that I used to use as my last process.

During this weekend's sharpening session, I noticed something that either wasn't happening before, or that I had failed to notice : when moving the USB up, the KS-123 wouldn't move in a continuous fashion, but rather by small increments. Which led me to suspect that the static friction coefficient at the middle reference leg was too high.

I did some testing, and noticed that if I moved the needle by hand, with the KS-123 still snapped to the USB and the three contact points on the wheel, I could get it to give readings that could vary by almost 1.5dps.

So I ended up taking the KS-123 apart, and lubricating the contact area between the black plastic cylinder and its metal housing. It improved the situation.

I have a less elegant solution.  I just pick up the three guide bars and plop them back down on the stone every time I turn the micro adjuster.

I would think that the knife jig would hit the stone at under 8° per side, but then I've never tried it.

FWIW, here's my video on the dual-wheel setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nowd-O3HT50