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Ok.I apologise in advance if the following causes a storm.
Of course scissors need deburring!
Let me also state right here that in my opinion, apart from maybe paper, or kitchen or big fabric scissors, the tormek is not a good machine for sharpening high end grooming or hairdressing scissors.
But even if it was they would still need deburring.
In fact a great deal of time is spent properly deburring high end fully convexed grooming/hairdressing scissors. It is essential.
Now some people recommend the forced open, shut tight method for cutting off the burr on these type of scissors but its too hit and miss.
Most professional sharpeners of these tools deburr on flat bench stones in a very controlled way so as to preserve blade geometry, especially on a fully convexed pair.
 Note the repeated use of 'convexed'. Not easy to do on a Tormek which produces concave edges, however slight that concavity is.
I have commented on a similar subject before.
The Tormek is a superb machine for sharpening many types of tools.
But please PLEASE don't be tempted to use it for sharpening expensive fully convexed scissors. Its a world of pain.
But my point is, even if you did use a T8 to sharpen these implements they would still need careful deburring.
Just my twopennorth worth....

Yes I agree that in theory it could be done.
However I think it would be difficult.
If you are expert at free handing expensive, fully convexed salon scissors on a flat hone, eg hirato. Then yes try it.
But if you are not then buy some very cheap convexed scissors and practice, practice, practice.
Also be aware that the hirato has an angle controlled jig to mount the scissors in, and unless you are a complete master, free-handing these type of blades is extremely difficult.
Please promise me you won't jump in at the deep end and run the risk of ruining a hairstylist's expensive scissors!

By dishing do you mean à slight recurve or as I call it a smile?
Is this happening on all knives or particularly those with bolsters?
If it's a general occurrence I would suggest alternating your passes each time, don't work one side of the blade until you get a burr and then go to the other side. Work each side of the blade one pass, heel to tip then flip. Heel to tip on the other side then flip, one pass etc.
If it's bolstered knives in particular then you are over grinding at the heel due to the bolster getting in your way. Consider grinding down that bolster unit it is no longer impacting the process.
I don't think it's your stone causing this unless it's very much out of true. At the very least re square it to eliminate this variable.
I had a similar problem to start with but the practice of continually flipping the blade after each pass largely put paid to this problem. You will find a way with your technique to stop this happening.

By process I mean are you using them for full sharpening or just honing after grinding on something else?

I could never get paper wheels to work for me, even with very precise angle controls à la Wootz. So gave up.
Interesting here Kwakster, are you free handing on the paper wheels? I see no bars to utilise using jigs?
What's your process with these wheels please?

And you see: "does it really matter"?
Well I think it does because as you are going through your protocols you have to TRUST in what you are doing, for consistency and peace of mind. And if you trust in the ks123 and there are variances with it then that's no trust at all.
May as well have a reference plate on a belt sander and trust to luck every time.
In the real world it may not matter, but if one is trying to achieve a particular result and testing protocols it does.
I ditched the ks123 a while back because I couldn't trust it. There or there abouts with the slop in it or whatever you call it is no good for me so went back to angle calc.
Funny old world.

15 degrees/side unless a customer asks for something specific (they very rarely do).

Adjust your workspace to accommodate water. Spills. Drips. Leakages.
Drip trays. Well positioned towels. Absorbent, dry able flooring.
It's the nature of the beast being water cooled grinding.
I'd prefer water all over the place to dry breathable dust everywhere!
Your machine isn't leaking. It's performing.

Maybe you are asking too much of your SG250 stone?
And looking for an alternative like oil to run it through is not going to get more performance out of it?
The SG250 works just fine, through water with occasional regrading,for most everyday day steels, with correct honing gives good results.
But for harder steels?
It just won't cut it.
I spent a long time on bench stones, hand sharpening.
Eventually found that my trusted ceramic stones just couldn't handle the harder steels, loads of work, glazing on the stones, nagura stones, re flattening etc etc.
Oil addition didn't help either.
Diamond or CBN did though.....
Just my two pennorth.....

I have been using the Kingmas 60X as recommended by Rick, really useful and far less fiddle faddle than a tomlov or camera set up.
Depends on what you're hoping to achieve with magnification.
I struggled to use the Kingmas to start with but got used to it and find it a quick and efficient way to see exactly what's going on at the edge, especially for curved scissors and thinning/ texturising scissors where it's hard to use a static lens.
So good for everyday use and good value.
Not YouTubing. Not disappearing up my own or anyone else's. So what's the point of expensive sophisticated camera microscopes? Not needed for volume sharpening.
Kingmas is all I really need for the occasions when I just need to know what I'm missing.

I run a knife sharpening business that started out just like yours is now.
I still sharpen family and good friends knives for free.
Normal friends get 'mates rates'.
Everyone else gets charged at a reasonable rate to commensurate me for my time.
It's a side hustle that is now rewarding for all the time and expense I've put in.
If I could take a leap it would become THE hustle and not a side one.
However,my focus has always been quality over quantity and my customers are passionate about their knives and don't argue prices or ever complain.
So I would need to put in some promo work and widen my radius to make it a full time business. Every time you sharpen for family and friends you are gaining invaluable experience/practice and knowledge so it's an investment as well as being a joy to do.
(I still love sharpening despite many hundreds of knives).
On a practical level, from what you've described, I would suggest paying more attention to your honing technique/protocols to achieve silent buttery smooth slicing of paper.
It's easy to chop down a tree when you know how. Another matter to properly clear up afterwards.
Same with knife sharpening. It's relatively easy to grind an edge and raise a burr. A different matter to hone and completely remove the burr to get it to its true potential.
Keep going, enjoy, and good luck on your journey.

Maybe an old topic I know.
So let's get some views on this.
I have to admit it's pretty hit or miss for me.
Despite lots of research, theorising and practice it's still eluding me.
Anyone got a reliable technique for this using Tormek and or other equipment?
Im talking serrated knives with big scallops, bread knives etc.
Grind scallops first and chase the burr on the flat side?
Or flat side first à la Wootz and deburr on the scallops?
Have tried a variety of ways and no real consistent results ( sometimes excellent and others very disappointing).
Any thoughts would be most welcome!

Hi Mr Duster.
I don't think there will be any noticeable performance differences between wet and dry.
2 implications using dry:
Dust.
Possible clogging of wheel (running through water cleans the wheel as you go and leaves dust in the water)

Using wet with AC:
No dust.
Water all over the place( though this can be countered).
Mixing up AC to correct proportion and not wasting it. ( you will get spillage. It adds to your cost and time. It can be reused by filtering but adds time and fiddle faddle.

I think a Tormek should really be used with water. That's what it was designed for.
Ive said this before but worth repeating:
Give me water splashes and slight inconvenience any time rather than metal dust everywhere.

Hi Dennis.
Completely agree with 2 previous replies.
I would get used to using the SG wheel, practicing and becoming entirely competent with it.if you are happy with the results then stick there.
Only consider investing in diamond or CBN wheels later, if you find yourself sharpening more and more knives ( friends and family will come out of the woodwork once they discover you're set up, you may decide to start a small business?!). For personal knives with occasional sharpening the basic set up is more than adequate.

I agree with Ricks replies 100%.
With regards the felt honing wheel though.
My personal experience with using one (bought from Vadim) was not that good.
Couldn't get it to produce Vadims' results no matter what I did and how much I tinkered with it. Always higher Bess initially and always higher Bess after subsequent honing on leather.
Enquiries on this forum produced mixed conclusions.
I wanted to make it work but gave up after much experimentation and frustration.
So to return to an old inconclusive subject:
Who in this community has good results with a felt wheel à la Vadim?
How, EXACTLY, have you made it work?
This is maybe a word of caution to the OP before they rush in headlong thinking the felt wheel will be game changing.