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I initially grind and then refine on a 1000 grit CBN wheel on Tormek.
I then hone on a leather belt on WSKO with Tormek paste.
I estimate the blade taper for a given knife.
Say I want to hone exact angle I compensate for the blade taper and set the WSKO accordingly.
So if I ground at 15 degrees per side on Tormek.
If the taper on the knife is 1.5 degrees per side then I set the WSKO to 13.5 degrees to hone exact.
For most knives I hone at plus 1.5-2 degrees per side initially.
Then at exact to finally remove the burr.
Make sense?
PM me if you want more details/explanation.

I've purchased from this person before and have had no problems. I'm in the UK and there was no issues with communication or shipping. I would follow the previous posters advice and im sure the problem will be resolved.

So Ken, I agree.
But slowly we can get the message out there.
Us sharpeners are doing that hopefully.
A frequent argument to me by potential customers would be " why would I pay £10 to sharpen a knife when I can buy a new one for £5!?"
Two answers to that:
Off you go then, why bother coming to me then? OR...
Buy a decent knife, I will get it sharper than out of the box and come to me once a year (or once every two if you follow my advice with knife care etc) and you'll not go wrong your favoured tool will last a lifetime.
To reiterate my last post: GET GOOD CUSTOMERS!
And while we're at it ask HOW MANY KNIVES DO YOU NEED!?
Three at most unless you're a high end sushi chef?
It's not just about making money for me as a sharpener, it's spreading the word that is important.
Sorry, I am in danger of going on a rant here.
Your average sharpener wants their customers to abuse their knives right?
Because it leads to more volume, more money...
Im polar opposite to that.
I also sharpen high end hairdressing scissors and grooming tools.
It's the same.
I want my customers to be completely satisfied, come back and recommend me to other potentially good customers by spreading that ethos.
I'll stop ranting, just some thoughts.

I confer with John B.
I sharpen more knives than him by the sounds of it, maybe 20 regular customers.
From new customers I guarantee that the knives are at best extremely dull by my standards. At worst require chip/tip repair and or complete re grind to get them in order. The worst being those with a smile on bolstered knives which is a ton of work plus bolster reduction.
Repeat customers are usually just in need of a quick touch up. As with John I've given them the low down and they are generally taking care of their sharp knives.
As I've said before : ' quality over quantity' every time. More satisfaction for me, more satisfaction for the customer.
It's essentially less about the knives, more about the customer.
Having said all that I do always inform my customers, new or old , what I'm proposing to do when I've assessed their knives. Potentially bad customers can be weeded out that way!

Hi Royale.
I don't entirely understand your question.
But looking at the photo of the knife before sharpening, here's a suggestion on how to proceed.
First grind the bolster down a bit so you can re profile the knife and get rid of the 'smile'.
Then re grind an edge to your 15 degrees per side and hone accordingly to get a sharp, deburred edge.
Only consider 'prettying' up the knife ( polishing, correcting old grind marks etc) if you have checked with the customer if that's what they want to do in terms of the process and agreement of the extra cost to achieve this?
Then state the knife is in it's obvious they aren't too concerned with aesthetics and  a good working edge is all that's required?

I have a very similar if not exactly the same brush cutter blade. I'm almost certain that it is only the flat triangular section that you need to sharpen. As the previous poster said, should be no trouble on a Tormek.

And to answer your question directly, I recall that Vadim maintained that anything over 120 Bess indicates the presence of a burr in some form be it wire, foil residual,or the root...

Genuine Global knives have good steel and can be sharpened under 100 Bess quite easily. I do this on a T8 up to 1000 CBN wheel at 15 dps. Then hone at +0.5 degrees on a WSKO blade attachment with leather belt and Tormek honing compound, followed by exact on a leather belt with 5 micron diamond compound. Repeatable.
I have had a few 'Globals' which refused to respond to this protocol and left me wondering......
Think you may have a knockoff, fake, counterfeit call it what you will.
Hope your friend didn't pay too much for his 'Global'?

I have a chef local to me who has 9 or ten top quality knives. He comes to me twice a year. He doesn't beat his knives up and looks after them. With my protocols it's always a relatively quick job to get them razor sharp. I know the knives, angles, honing procedures. Child's play. I don't over charge him but I make a decent hourly rate. He's so happy with the results and never balks at the cost.
Sooooo, it's all about getting the right customers and repeat business from people who appreciate what you are doing. Quality over volume every time!
And it makes the work better. Relaxed quality work rather than the ' quick, quick, gotta go faster to make the money' for non appreciative punters.
Now then, if only I could get a hundred customers like him life would be sweet!

Hi secondofangle. I too struggled for a while to get rid of the Knifegrinders software crutch.
However, once you make the leap to using calcapp or such, or the new Tormek angle tool, you will realise just how simple and efficient they are to use and you then needn't worry about losing your crutch. Believe me, I went through the same process!

It depends on the condition of the knives.
If they are just needing a touch up then match the angle and maybe start oa 600 grit?
If they are badly damaged and need a re grind or re profiling then start lower.
Remember that all the hard work is done at lower grits.
Establish your edge and then refine and then de burr/ hone.

A while back I sharpened some chisels for a good friend.
Today he said that they were really sharp when he first got them back but the edge soon dulled and he's frustrated now that he didn't keep them honed up regularly, they are now blunt. We both agreed that not knowing the make that they were not quality in the first place.
Long story short, can anyone recommend a manufacturer for a set of 3 chisels to buy that will at least retain an edge for longer?
I'm not au fait with woodworking tools.
He mentioned going down the Japanese route, I said the same thing would apply to any purchase, 'do your research'.
I said I'd ask on here.
Thanks in advance.

Yep! All sounds very familiar. As I've got more experience I've realised that it's all about getting the right customers rather than loads of iffy ones. If they appreciate what you do they'll come back and won't question your prices or techniques, allowing you to do a good rewarding job.
These days, if someone questions my prices or techniques or doesn't take my advice then they get binned. Just not worth it.
The chef thing? Yep agree wholeheartedly. I have several and they are good customers and meet the above criteria.
But I do remember one that I offered my services to. He said his kitchens knives were sharp and got a sous chef to bring one out to show me. You can imagine! I guess over 500 Bess. I said I could get it sharper than new for him. He asked how much? I told him (explaining about re profiling and how subsequent sharpenings would be cheaper). He laughed and replied that his contacts could get the knives ( I think they were Victorinox) cheaper than the sharpening (which I doubt).
I walked away thinking I'd dodged a bullet.
I guess you've just got to hang on in there until you get the right repeat customers who will start recommending you to other good repeat customers.
Might take a little longer but it's worth it in the long run.

Agree with Royale and Ken wholeheartedly.
My personal mantra is quality over quantity.
Quality finds good, repeat customers who are appreciative and likely to recommend.

This looks like a great solution. Thanks! Especially if you can add that 'friction' to the thread on the adjustable stop to stop slipping.
I refer back to my original post in this thread.
If you have found a solution to this problem ( and it is a problem for professional sharpeners), why haven't Tormek?
If they did we wouldn't have to retrofit!
As said before, I have 9 of the old svm jigs for batch sharpening and would be happy to buy 9 more of a new jig incorporating both benefits.
An argument I've read is that it wouldn't be in Tormeks interest to do so because it's too niche and they wouldn't make money on their investment/development/marketing.
I may be wrong but I beg to differ.
They finally did it with the new angle jig for knives, so why not with this?
I think they're missing an opportunity.