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I scanned the thread to see if you mentioned the diameter of your grinding wheel but didn't find it, just mention that barely dips in the water.  I have never seen in person anything but the current T8, but think I've read that some of the older models don't have the mechanism to raise the water trough.  If that is true, perhaps yours is one and therefore, you may need to lift it with supports to get the water level in the trough up to the stone.  I could be way on this about the lack of the lifting mechanism, but at the very least, I have no problem filling the trough enough and raising it to fully wet an 8" traditional grinding wheel, so I suspect you should be able to with your stone, if it has enough material.  If not, replacing it is a must, not a maybe, IMHO.

The wheel is an SG-250 but I believe it saw a lot of usage with the original owner and also got left in water a long time, the result is it's worn down a lot and what is left is uneven. This particular model does not have the ability to raise the water trough built in but I could just stuck something underneath it if I was so inclined. I have started using the truing tool on this wheel as I've got nothing to lose, the surface is coming out nicely now the flecks of rust are being removed.

Whilst I do intend to get a honing wheel it is lower down on my list of priorities since that's something I can do with the assorted strops I already have.

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions. In this age of built-in obsolescence it's refreshing to see continued support for an old product line.

Here's where it's up to: https://i.imgur.com/nNNzeoM.jpg

What I did:
- Removed the rust from the casing and most fittings (I'll likely replace the toolrest, so only used the wire brush and no chemicals)
- Painted
- Replaced the drive shaft
- Replaced the drive wheel
- Added the horizontal toolrest mount
- Replaced the water tray

What I may yet do:
- Replace the toolrest
- Get a leather honing wheel (the old composite one I have does not fit properly with the new drive wheel)
- Actually use the truing tool I bought
- Replace the grinding wheel - the existing one is worn down such that it'll barely dip in the water, probably makes more sense than trying to true it

It's been great to have this to keep going back to over the christmas break and as a result I have learned a lot about how it all fits together and feel better equipped to keep it going for years to come.

By way of an update, I've begun to take it apart so I can start dealing with rust and see what state the internals are in and it's gone well so far with just two sticking points:

I managed to get the stone off using WD40 and a couple of days of waiting, but I'm left with this part (looks like a washer) exposed and I don't know if it's meant to be attached to the shaft or not: https://i.imgur.com/MuOLb4w.jpg - in my case it has either rusted solidly to the shaft, or it was meant to be that way. I did watch this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6Ckz1HtzBQ - which shows how to replace the shaft but I have not been able to slide mine out the side the stone was on. I removed the plastic bushing that was on the drive side, but there appears to be a white one on the inside of the stone side of the frame: https://i.imgur.com/5Xz73ZX.jpg - my question is how do I get the shaft out now?

Secondly, how does the motor come out? I saw a couple of nuts on in, one of which I removed, but the other one I can't get to - and in either case I'm not sure they'd release it.

Thanks very much, I've contacted support and applied some penetrating oil so I'll see how I get on.

I've inherited an old Tormek grinder and a load of jigs. It belonged to a relative and perhaps 25 years ago it did a wonderful job on my knives, however it's sat unused in a shed for probably a decade. The motor is fine, but as you'll see from the pictures linked below, the stone looks a bit off - it's not true and I don't know if truing is all that it'd require. Also the honing wheel is totally hardened. I wondered what would be rescuable from this state and what would need to be replaced? Looking at prices for bits I wasn't sure if it'd just be cheaper to buy a new model, or if it's the sort of thing where just buying the truing kit would sort it out.

https://i.imgur.com/sMyv8kw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/T3xaJFK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1NMtC1e.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/q7bGKV4.jpg

Any opinions would be appreciated.