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Where did you obtain that first chart???

Update: I found some amazing plates from AliExpress ( just under a month for shipping) and using the Guideline(s) that Dr. Vadim mentioned in a couple of his videos - I purchase an 80grit, 150grit and 320 grit - his method mentions the results of using the diamond plates are 3x the stated grit - for example the 80grit plate results in around 240grit on the stone.

I have the SB250 - and I cannot believe the difference!!! This method is a lot more "calculable" in results.

As a test, I used the 80grit plate and held it on the stone for about 10-12 seconds with medium pressure; sharpened a knife at this level; stropped on the composite wheel - and the knife was done! less than 3 minutes total. The edge was refined, burr removed and sliced through paper like nobodies business. The knife was done! No grading

I started again with another knife and did the 80grit and 150grit plates in succession - the results were even better.

The plates I purchased have a nice thicker rubber backing that clamped really well and were very sturdy in the jig.
I'll be ordering more soon!

J, Cheers to Chef Sharpeners!!! I like that!
I purchased my SB (which is man-made and not natural) to be able to work on ceramics. I've never been brought one to sharpen by any of my customers, yet!
This was done from research prior to Choosing the Custom-T8.

Currently for deburring - I chose the composite wheel so I didn't have the mess from the paste - all over the chef knives - since they would be working with edibles and not wood.
In my shop, I also have bench strops with both sides, 2"x42" leather belt for bigger jobs and felt belts on my smaller Ken Onion BGA for controlled micron honing.

I am looking into the Paper Wheel sharpening system(s) that are out there currently to complete my "honing" systems.

As for wheels - the I will make about the CBN and Diamond wheels - is 1. they never lose diameter!, 2. Cut the metal differently and provide different results. (there is a lot of research and articles you can find here in this forum about all of this...) I have to 8" CBN wheels but I use them to take off metal to reduce bolsters and fix broken tips and edges.

Although it is nice to polish and shine the edge and bevel, that doesn't always translate to a "great" CHEF KNIFE experience. I prefer to stop around #600- #800 so that I have a toothy edge that will last all day in the kitchen with maybe a slight touchup with a hone if I have a heavy prep day and a lot of knife work.

In some of the forums and Guilds I am a member of, I have started discussions lately about "Knife Specific" edges. As a chef, you are fully aware of how we use different shapes and sizes depending on what we are cutting. So I am working that into my Sharpening System for my customers by asking them, what do YOU use this knife for???

Examples of this for me are:
1. Wusthof 10" cimeter I use ONLY for whole fish and sides - I sharpen to 15dps to #1000 and leather belt with white compound - as the knife doesn't come in contact with the cutting board that often - and I find I can take the skin off salmon with that angle and not tear through the skin.
2. Wusthoff Grand Prix 8" - I sharpen to #800 and finish on Tormek Composite Wheel at and edge of 17dps
3. Victorinox curbed boning knife - #800 and 13dps - great for skinning whole tenderloins - 189a and the #800 grit still has that "toothy edge" for cutting steaks out of the trimmed tender.

You get the picture. This perspective has sparked a lot of Q&A in my groups and it is starting to make sense to them...

Ken is an amazing resource of wealth and wisdom. I have "ran" into him on other forums and chats as well. I truly admire his outlook and willingness to share with us "new" sharpeners.

Sorry that was a lot. PM me if you want to talk more in depth about my systems and the successes I've implemented to overcome all  my mistakes and challenges!!!
Cheers!

JJP - What a small World !!!
I am still an Executive Chef myself and Love my T8 - I've had it now since October.
I have the Black Oxide wheel - SB-250 and found that the stone grader "Glazed Over" and was ineffective.
SO - I tried a couple of CBN field sharpeners - but just recently got my diamond plates and LOVE THEM!!!
I really like how I can control the grit and level of abrasive my stone is now.
#200 to start, #400 and then #1000.
I run them in my knife jig (I don't have a plane iron currently like Dr. Vadim uses, but same principal.) to keep them square and level.

I am really impressed with using these to grade my stones.
To your last comment - absolutely. Keep one stone for the initial bevel set and shaping and then the second a little finer to finish.
You could also mount a felt wheel on the T2000 and use a diamond emulsion to finish out your knives!

Glad to meet another Chef / Tormek fan and user.
Good luck and hope to chat with you more.

Jason

Some of my steel hones are diamond conical shaped at the tip. I use that just to push up a burr from the inside (remove and flip the blade over) then reinsert the blade prior to steeling the burr off. This has benefited many peelers in my commercial kitchens over the years.

I have been there and done all of that Brad.
Another issue I corrected though was to be conscious of pressure, placement, and alignment of my fingers when switching hands as the less dominant took over the second half of the sharpening.
With less pressure, exactly replicated finger placement on the blade and making sure the black stop of the jig is square on the USB, my bevels started matching up and looked a lot more uniform.
Cheers!

Was there ever a solution from Tormek???