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Thanks for the advice. Yeah, that was was I was basically thinking. The Japanese stone seems to mostly polish the edge so I'll see how well I can get a secondary bevel on my chisels.

I recently bought the Japanese waterstone for my T4. I tried it on a chisel after using the SG-200 stone and can't get the entire sharpened surface to shine. My SG-200 is older and a lesser diameter than the new Japanese stone and I'm guessing the difference in the radius between the two stones is allowing each stone to touch a different part of my chisel.

Right now I'm resigned to maybe only being able to use the Japanese waterstone on the tip of my chisel.

I also have a nice chisel sharpening kit that I can use with my various other abrasives, but that gives my the typical flat grind that also does not get fully polished with the Japanese waterstone.

Any ideas on how to match up the grinding on the two different stones? Thanks!

You can also just pry the black plastic part off the screw (it's just pressed on, at least on the SVM-45)...

Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely be trying that.

Ken- yeah, I saw the product photo also where it shows the small carving knife being used in the small knife holder. When I bought my Tormek I just assumed that it could precisely sharpen small knives. Between the knife jig itself and the non-centered nature of a multi-function knife, there are just too many problems with that.

I have hand-held a few small knives for sharpening with adequate results, but that makes for a very expensive piece of machinery for just 'typical' sharpening results.

Thank you for the advice of replacing the plastic knob with a small socket screw. I should have thought of that. For now, at least, I'll remember to have the body of the knife on the outside of the Tormek when it's installed in the jig with the locking knob underneath.

I wish there was a larger water tray for my T4 so that the excess water can be caught when using the unit. I have a silicone pad underneath to catch the water, but the whole process is messier than it should be. I do think I will at least add my own magnet in the water tray to catch the metal that is ground off.

I've watched the video twice now and they managed to not show how the jig works when turned over so that the knob is on the downward side! They did show an example of sharpening a meat cleaver but didn't turn the jig over once they showed their example of the knob being on top.

I did get one tip by watching and that was to perhaps mount my knife so that the handle is on the outside of the unit when the knob is on the bottom. That gives a little more distance between the knob and the universal support. But the top stop on the jig is what they primarily used in their examples.

But is sure seems to me that they didn't think this through thoroughly, much like their original jig that wasn't self-centering to begin with, and their small knife holder that doesn't properly center a Swiss-army knife, and the center handle which in no way allows the user to lift the unit without it tilting dramatically to the heavier side. I'm beginning to see that other solutions are more appropriate for small knifes. But I do have some really sharp chisels 

just figured out how to post multiple photos....

Just got the centering jig and it won't slide past the threaded rod on the universal support, regardless of which side the black adjusting knob is on. It's really close to clearing and I'm wondering if my universal support weld joint is just too large?

Also, the instructions for the KJ-45 mention that either of the two stops on the KJ-45 can be used and the arrows in the illustration point to those two stops. However, the arrows point to the top sides (when in use) of those stops and I'm not sure if the top or bottom part of the stops is to be used against the universal support. A subsequent photo shows the bottom side of the upper stop being used which is contrary to the illustration that points to the to side of the universal support. Any clarification?

I just had excellent luck using a drill bit inserted into the open end of the punch. I clamped down a piece of aluminum onto the tool rest and sharpened the punch on the side of the wheel. By having the drill bit inside the end, I didn't even have a burr to get rid of on the punch.

So sharp that I actually now have a circular cut on my thumb!

Thanks to both of you for your comments. I hadn't thought about inserting something into the inside of the bottom opening in order to secure the punch. That seems like the best idea.

And Rick, your idea of putting it inside of some sort of tube was also my first thought. I thought of making a plastic casting from a mold that fits around the tool, then turning the outside on my lathe to make it round. That would work, but the amount of labor required would be just too much for this one tool considering how inexpensive a new one with a circular shaft would cost.

The casting for this punch is rather coarse, and even the initial ground angle on the cutting surface wasn't too accurate to begin with.

It's kind of ironic to have a precise sharpening system, only to own a tool that needs sharpening that has no precise reference surfaces

Hi- I'm trying to sharpen a leather punch and have had some luck doing it without a jig. However, I'd sure like to have more accuracy and was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to 'mount' a center punch that has a square shanked upper part that isn't precisely centered with the cutting hole on the bottom.

I'd probably need some sort of attachment that could hold the punch and that was adjustable so that the cutting end of the punch could be centered along its longitudinal axis. I have sharpened this in the past using my lathe with a four jaw chuck but was hoping to speed up the process.

In the future, I need to be sure to only buy punches that are entirely barrel shaped and can be simply rotated around their center axis once place on the tool rest.