Messages

PS

I think the Tormek SE-77 Square Edge Jig is the problem, the adjustment capability can lead to misalignment of the blade in the jig.

[Update]

Update

I put the blade in my honing guide and ran it across some 60 micron 3M paper and then put a secondary bevel with my stones. The whole process took less than 20 minutes which makes me wonder why I bought a Tormek in the first place !   

...
- wrong tightening technique for USB legs (one should press down on the leg with the MicroAdjust, tighten, then tighten the other one)

I'm glad you brought this up.  I know this is what Tormek recommends, but I now do the opposite, I push down on the other leg first.  The reason is I found that, for example, the Truing Tool which pushes up against the USB... if I push down on the MicroAdjust side first, the TT can push up and cause the USB to tip (enough that I can turn the MicroAdjust almost .5mm).  But, if I push down on the opposite side first, it's locked in place and won't move.  Obviously, I could tighten things down enough so that it doesn't matter (and of course light passes), just one more thing I don't have to think about.

Probably doesn't make a difference in reality (but if someone is measuring to 0.0015", it might.)

What'd ya think?

I managed to get the wheel true and remove th 0.0015" gap, but having problem with getting a square edge on my 2 1/4" plane blade

Having laid idle for about a year I am revisiting my Tormek. 

I put a new primary bevel on a wide plane blade yesterday and have two issues.

1, The edge isn't square, I think I have found a solution for this by aligning to the edge of the wheel and don't trust the jig.

2, I have trimmed the wheel twice and can't get it square, it's about 0.0015" out of square, any recommendations as to how I resolve this ? 

"Aligning to the edge of the wheel" is a solution in one of the Tormek videos...

https://www.youtube.com/live/8uLMWXqobRM?si=kAAkHwN4Fj43RtHE&t=1465

... there's also some other tips on what to do.

As for truing the wheel square (assuming your square is accuarte ), and as Dan said, you're using the TT-50, (if so, which model?),  I'd check to see if your USB is square to the side of the wheel.  If so, my next suggestion would be to make very light passes to true the wheel, so that it doesn't "push up" against the USB.  I'd make the last past a .10mm or less, (turning the Microadjust less than 1/2 the distance between two numbers) and see if that helps.

Tried it today but my plane blade is too big, I think it's 2 1/4", restricted if I go right and it i go left it passes the end of the bar

Hello, you said "I have trimmed the wheel twice".
Did you use the TT-50 to re-true the stone?

https://tormek.com/en/products/accessories/tt-50-truing-tool

Which model Tormek do you have?

Its the  T4

Hello, you said "I have trimmed the wheel twice".
Did you use the TT-50 to re-true the stone?

https://tormek.com/en/products/accessories/tt-50-truing-tool

Which model Tormek do you have?

yes I used the TT50

Having laid idle for about a year I am revisiting my Tormek. 

I put a new primary bevel on a wide plane blade yesterday and have two issues.

1, The edge isn't square, I think I have found a solution for this by aligning to the edge of the wheel and don't trust the jig.

2, I have trimmed the wheel twice and can't get it square, it's about 0.0015" out of square, any recommendations as to how I resolve this ?   

I have owned the T4 for a few years now and too be honest it does not get used every week. Once my plane blades and chisels have a decent 25-degree angle I move to the Shapton Glass stones for the micro bevels. 

I struggle with getting blade backs honed to a mirror finish, I use wet and dry and then move to waterstones. But never manage to get a good polish, mainly because I get bored and settle for a happy medium. 

Would the introduction of a 600 grit diamond wheel help me get my backs polished, I tried it on the stone once but never felt comfortable using the side of the stone. 

How does the 600grit compare to the standard stone ?   
       

I read the manual for the first time last night 

It says I can place a blade vertically on the side of the wheel to flatten the backs 

Seems a bit risky to me, anyone used it successfully ?

I am sure I have seen a picture or a video of using the Angle Guide on the honing wheel to set a matching angle for honing; however, the min dia on the setter is 150mm and my wheel on the T4 is 145mm, how does that work ?

Good observation, Segovia. Experience taught me the value of more frequent light truing. Several years ago, I had an untrue wheel sneak up on me on three occasions. (I'm a slow learner.   )

Regular inspection of the trueness of the grinding wheel should be a routine part of our good housekeeping, just like regularly checking the oil level on your vehicle. I don't mean to sound preachy; I am among the less than overachievers. I do think reaching for this goal will eliminate many "gremlins".

Keep us posted.

Ken

Considering it has very lite use I was surprised it needed truing

All sorted now, my wheel was also worn on one side which didn't help

Probably a good idea to email support@tormek.se with pictures. They usually answer promptly and are very helpful. Keep us posted !

Will do, I thought it was normal

I think the Tormek RB-180 rotating base is a most useful, albeit not inexpensive, accessory. For those wanting to economize, I would recommend an inexpensive, small cafeteria tray. Just rotate the tray. The weight of the Tormek will keep it stable. Cafeteria trays also have lips to contain any spilled water. They are made of all plastic and cannot rust.

Ken

Good idea

Has anyone used lazy susan device for their sharpening station

There are lazy susan's that have a lock every 90 degrees, but I can't find any in the UK

Have you seen this?

yes, but he's in the US, and I am in the UK so didn't bother to ask where he got the turntable from