Messages

So, the #CW-220 is available on the International Tormek site and is compatible with the T-8; however, it does not appear to be available in the USA market at this point.

There is a version for the kitchen knife sharpener T2 available from Sharpening Supplies for $79 (# TOR-PW160), but it states that it is not compatible with the T-8.

Several...

https://youtu.be/wBhQ-A9w4tY

Ken

I saw one video. I purchased the new handtool kit when I ordered my T-8 and I ordered the #US-430 earlier this week, along with the #SVD-110, Tool Rest.

One thing of note is that the Hand Tool Kit #HTK-806 is actually an upgrade over the #HTK-706, in that it costs $235 vs $224, but it includes the hard case, the hard foam insert, and the #SVM-00 (Small Knife Holder), which typically sells for $35 by itself.

The #SVM-00 is NOT included in the #HTK-706; but I've used it for my smaller EDC knives and wood carving knives.

It was a good class today. I had wondered about sharpening my Friskars shears. They recommended taking the blades/handles apart.

I also saw a new trick; using the knob on the jig as a reference point for really steep angles.

Rod

For those of you that don't know, there is another class in the morning. 6:30 Pacific Coast Time zone. Gardening tools?

I saw a YT video wherein a guy puts a scotchbright pad lodged in the back of his water trough and that helps to clean the wheel as he's using it. He also put a rubber liner on the trough on the downwheel side, which helps to keep the water falling into the trough (I wish Tormek would widen the base of the trough on that side, too).

He does the farmer's markets and has sharpened over 53k knives and has gone thru 17 stones. Sounded knowledgeable.

Welcome to the forum! Glad to have you. The T4 will serve you well. You might go to Tormek's YouTube channel and check out the last several sharpening videos that have been put out over the last couple of months with Wolfgang and Sebastian. They are a great resource and really helped me step up my game.

I'm a newer user, having gotten a T-8 during their 'Wheel for Life' promo. I have been buying accessories and recently got an MB-100, which was priced at around $98. However, the prices have dropped down to around $80. For the long time users, do the prices with Tormek generally drop from an introductory price and then down over time? For example, Milwaukee's trim router was around $200 at introduction and now it's closer to $150 (6 months later).

I was looking at getting the US-430, which is about $100, but it doesn't seem to be much more material than the US-105, which is $47. Do you think it will drop in price? I read somewhere else to make sure that I got one if possible, as they were only a 'limited run', which also doesn't make sense as they would be great for longer blades.

An example of this is using the stone grader placed parallel to the grinding wheel instead of perpendicular. This makes the wear on the stone grader more even and helps to keep the grinding wheel true.

Ken

Ken,
I found it interesting to note that they showed placing the stone grader in this position in the 1st video class, but when I checked the video series, the old one showed holding it at a right angle to the wheel. It seems that techniques have been changed or improved, just like their jigs have.

Yes, I enjoyed the class, too.

Maybe I put this post in the wrong spot...

Sebastien, I really appreciate the class! I am a new T-8 owner and I've watched both classes live, engaged in asking questions (rod wolfy) and plan on watching the one tomorrow morning (6:30 AM, my time).

It would be nice if you guys could continue to have classes once you're done with the basics on a slightly more indepth basis.

For example, I have the hand tool kit and the knife jigs, but I destroyed my wife's Santoku knife over the last couple of weeks practicing on it. The outside roll (Convex) shape of the blade was made concave thru the belly. When I ground near the hilt, it was rubbing on the handle and when grinding near the tip, the handle was hitting the leather wheel. I have reviewed several explanations on the forum; however, a video showing the method would help significantly.

Thanks again for the videos and I look forward to putting a better finish on my chisels and plane blades (please cover making a slighly cambered edge on a planer blade, as it helps when doing rough hand planing)!

Sebastien, I really appreciate the class! I am a new T-8 owner and I've watched both classes live, engaged in asking questions (rod wolfy) and plan on watching the one tomorrow morning (6:30 AM, my time).

It would be nice if you guys could continue to have classes once you're done with the basics on a slightly more indepth basis.

For example, I have the hand tool kit and the knife jigs, but I destroyed my wife's Santoku knife over the last couple of weeks practicing on it. The outside roll (Convex) shape of the blade was made concave thru the belly. When I ground near the hilt, it was rubbing on the handle and when grinding near the tip, the handle was hitting the leather wheel. I have reviewed several explanations on the forum; however, a video showing the method would help significantly.

Thanks again for the videos and I look forward to putting a better finish on my chisels and plane blades (please cover making a slighly convex shape on a planer blade, as it helps when doing rough hand planing)!