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I'm in the middle of the UK Danny (Derbyshire) but it does look in really good condition with very little use by the looks of it !

I would love to come across a used Tormek T4000, that gap between the two wheels makes a world of difference for knife sharpening. It seems to me though that if you could buy the stainless frame and an extended stainless EZYlock mainshaft as parts from Tormek then you could probably build one yourself using a T7 for the other doner parts...... maybe ! 😎
Please Tormek, make a small batch of T4000's I'm sure they would sell like hotcakes, I would definitely buy one instantly ! 👍 🙏

I also watch a lot of his videos, very informative and you can pick up a lot of good tips from watching him work. His technique has definitely evolved these last 6 months or so and he has a good speed and workflow on his Tormek. I was always amazed by the amount of paper cuttings that were on his workshop floor....... but he seems to tidy up more there days ! ! Ha ha .

I personally would love to see the option of an angled composite wheel for the T8.
If Tormek still made the T4000, or made a small batch of them, I'm pretty sure it would sell very well as a dedicated knife sharpening machine, that distance between the two wheels and USB supports both sides would make it perfect for me !
The only parts they would have to actually make as far as I can see are the wider stainless chassis and a longer majnshaft.
I would go as far as to say that with those two parts you could build such a machine yourself in conjunction with a used T2000........
Just a thought ! 

For what it's worth, I think that where you hold the bar when you tighten the screws can make a big difference, up to 1.5mm sometimes I reckon.
I always push down on the bar in exactly the same place every time for consistency. Trial and error will find your own individual way of replicating a  level bar every time I think.

This is probably my first post in this forum so hi everyone. I often sharpen away from the stone and have encountered the problem of the jig thumbscrew catching the USB at various times using both the standard and extended USB. My solution with both the new and old jigs is, as Ken has already suggested, to use a stainless grub screw whenever needed and this has always worked for me. Sorry for the HUGE image...... I didn't realise it would come out that big !