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I sharpen mostly knives. I've tried honing using both the CW220 wheel and the LA220 with Tormek paste. The CW220 is OK but definitely doesn't seem to hone as well as the LA220 with paste... also the leather wheel with paste is very messy !
I now mostly use the LA220 leather wheel with Veritas green honing compound which is just a little bit messier that the compound wheel  but I get great results with it everytime using a FVB and the KS 123 jig set between 0.5 and 2 degrees above the grinding angle (depending on the steel).
Not scientific at all, just my own preference and findings over the last 5 years. 

I'm in the middle of the UK Danny (Derbyshire) but it does look in really good condition with very little use by the looks of it !

I would love to come across a used Tormek T4000, that gap between the two wheels makes a world of difference for knife sharpening. It seems to me though that if you could buy the stainless frame and an extended stainless EZYlock mainshaft as parts from Tormek then you could probably build one yourself using a T7 for the other doner parts...... maybe ! 😎
Please Tormek, make a small batch of T4000's I'm sure they would sell like hotcakes, I would definitely buy one instantly ! 👍 🙏

I personally would love to see the option of an angled composite wheel for the T8.
If Tormek still made the T4000, or made a small batch of them, I'm pretty sure it would sell very well as a dedicated knife sharpening machine, that distance between the two wheels and USB supports both sides would make it perfect for me !
The only parts they would have to actually make as far as I can see are the wider stainless chassis and a longer majnshaft.
I would go as far as to say that with those two parts you could build such a machine yourself in conjunction with a used T2000........
Just a thought ! 

For what it's worth, I think that where you hold the bar when you tighten the screws can make a big difference, up to 1.5mm sometimes I reckon.
I always push down on the bar in exactly the same place every time for consistency. Trial and error will find your own individual way of replicating a  level bar every time I think.

This is probably my first post in this forum so hi everyone. I often sharpen away from the stone and have encountered the problem of the jig thumbscrew catching the USB at various times using both the standard and extended USB. My solution with both the new and old jigs is, as Ken has already suggested, to use a stainless grub screw whenever needed and this has always worked for me. Sorry for the HUGE image...... I didn't realise it would come out that big !