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I presume you are using the Tormek SE-77 jig for chisel sharpening.  If so you can use the two screws on the top of the jig to change the angle of the chisel to the stone and get a square edge.  Slacken one screw 1/4 turn and tighten the opposing screw, grind 1 or 2 passes and check if you are square, if not adjust again (if you made the problem worse you need to slacken the oposing screw).  Have a go and you will soon understand how the screws work.

Good video. I found the Jeff Farris video's good for learning proper technique when I bought my machine. Amazing how many of the YouTuber's effectively do an unboxing video and haven't even read the page on proper technique of raising the knife handle or similar tips before they shoot a video. Unfortunately, those videos normally seem to percolate to the top of the recommendations and then people are left not understanding how good the Tormek really is!

I'm new to the Forum although I've owned a T-4 for over a year and sharpened various household items in addition to my planes and chisels. My wife even presented to me small pair of sewing scissors that she'd run through a electric knife sharpener! After quite abit of work I got back to a 60 degree bevel and they were serviceable again.

I think my one complaint about the T-4 would be the small honing wheel. It's so small that the Angle-Master and SE-77 can't be used with it. I'm not sure the reason for the honing wheel been that size, but IMO it would be an improvement to make it just a bit bigger.

I upgraded to the SJ-200 stone for finishing chisels and plane irons as I just didn't like free-handing on the honing wheel for my woodworking tools as I was concerned of rounding the edges. I then just strop the back on a flat piece of leather.  I still use the honing wheel free hand for knives etc.

-Simon

I think first step to a square edge is mastering how to set the tool rest parallel. Lower the spinning nut so the tool rest is almost touching the stone. Then using a torch shinning behind look how parallel to the stone it is (assuming your stone is new or trued). For repeatability I place my hand fully on the rest between the two tightening points, then tighten both.  Simply tightening the front knob, then the back will result it in not been parallel. So, repeatability means doing the same procedure every time. Practice a few times from your usual standing position to get the procedure into memory, checking each time with the torch.

After that, I then put a straight edge steel ruler or similar in the SE-77 jig and register it against the edge with about 50mm of stick out. Then, raise up the rest so the angle is around 25 degrees. Hand on rest, tighten both knobs. Now take a look with a torch again at how the edge is meeting the stone. The SE-77 has a mark that shows when it is aligned to 90 degree, but I find that you can do any slight tweaking using the two adjustment knobs to ensure the ruler is parallel to the stone (tiny adjustments are all that is needed). Practice a few times loosening the tool rest, making an adjustment to the angle say swapping between 25/30 degrees and following the same procedures of hand on rest and tightening the knobs and check that your results are repeatable and the edge is parallel.   

You can always tweak the squareness further with an actual blade in the jig using the marker technique. But at least having a repeatable method of setting the tool rest will remove a large amount of the error in my experience.

-Simon