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It does nothing however for the issue of abraded steel clogging the action of the wheel.  Enter the CW-220, finally what looks like something that may be able to be properly flushed of abraded steel.

Does anybody have any experience with cleaning the surface of the wheel to remove all or most of the steel waste from the wheel?  My thought is that it would be easy to do but I hate to buy just to see.

I too have wondered how to deeply clean the CW-220 wheel. I always use isopropanol instead of water as the lubricant when stropping.  To clean I have drench the wheel, run a strong neodymium magnet across it while spinning then really rub surface with a microfiber cloth.  It seems good and clean, but is there a better method?  Open to suggestions.

John

The wheel still cuts fine.  But I feel there has to be some fine metal being imbedded into the surface.  I assume if the loose particles were removed it would be closer to that new wheel feeling

I was thinking of a fluid like Simple Green. It might be educational to see what is shed in a ultrasonic bath.

John

I think if it is only special color and a decal it won't pry open my wallet. But I hope for new innovation though.

Hello,  I was wondering if my composite wheel is getting clogged with use.  The leather wheel can be scraped off and compound reapplied effectively renewing the surface but with the composite wheel this cannot be done. 

I was thinking of using my ultrasonic cleaner as it is large enough to dip the entire wheel at once. I imagine the debris can be shaken loose ultrasonically leaving the surface closer to new.  I have not selected a fluid yet but am still wondering if it will work without destroying the CW-220 wheel.

Any thoughts please?

TYVM, John

Finding what size power supply is pretty easy if you purchase a KILL-A-WATT power meter.  I believe you can detect peak (inrush) current as well as average use.  Then it is simple multiplication to figure out how large of a battery you will need. 

If the T8 draws 200 watts and you want to run it constantly for four hours that is 800 watt hours.

John

I have a CW-220 wheel and really like it.  It seems to get the edge closer to a mirror edge which impresses people when they receive back their knife. It's quicker too. I say it is an advancement over the messy leather wheel.

I lube the surface with water or alcohol. One day I mistakenly sprayed alcohol but decided to continue anyway.  Now I try one or the other depending how I feel.  Not sure my final product is any better but I like the spread of alcohol on the wheel surface better than water.

John

I have bags like that. I will try that too.  Thank you.

Hmmm. The tape seems like a good idea.  I'll give that a try.

J

The 150 lb pull magnet mentioned is OK. It should work. But the lines of magnetism are 90 degrees from optimal.  The hard drive magnets concentrate pull from the flat side and live submerged millimeters from the rotating stone..  This is not a show stopper but just something to know.

John

Roland,

I am not sure there is a legal limit on owning Tormek machines.

Personally I own a T8, Supergrind 2000, T4 and a 10" clone wet grinder.  On straight kitchen knife sharpening I use three 10" machines. I have three different grit stones on them. My T4 will either hold my very coarse wheel or become my felt wheel spinner.  I have not decided.

Additionally I have a 1x30 inch variable speed belt grinder (with eight progressively finer belts) as well as a paper wheel grinder/buffer. Both of those tools are about the cheapest models I could find.  I'll get better quality sander and paper wheel equipment if I find the return on investment will support them.

I started a spreadsheet to evaluate used supergrind machines i'm considering vs new machines. It needs refinement but it contains variables that force you to enter what you think a warranty is worth to you and shipping costs of the new and old machines. You also enter your perceived value of new vs an older machine.  I want to enter values of accessories that come with the used gear deals too. I like cold hard undisputable numbers. You'd be surprised how often the new machine is the better value at today's used machine prices.

I look for good used Tormek machines constantly but I find the price people are asking for the old tired green Tormeks exorbitant when you consider the need for upgrading so they are suitable for purpose, I can pay the same price for a T-8 custom and set it up as my needs dictate. The accuracy of the T-8 is so much greater than previous machines and clones. T-8 custom will be the next machine I purchase unless a cherry condition older model falls in my lap for cheap.

P M me and I can tell you more about my modus operandi.

John

Ken,  I am glad you are open to experimenting with the neodymium magnets. The anti corrosion fluid is optional in my mind but I understand a purist would use some. 

Hard drives are being tossed in the landfill so I encourage people to ask for old or dead drives. You can offer to return the platters if someone feels there is data remaining on them so they can destroy them.

Have fun. John

I have been fascinated with magnets all my life. I have flat magnets removed from old hard disk drives so I decided to try putting some neodymium magnets in the water tray of all my Tormeks while I grind.

I submerge them in the water very close to the wheel.  It is amazing how much steel the neo magnets catch by being real close to the grinding wheel and at a narrow point in the water bath where the steel can be collected before it flows back onto the grinding wheel.

While I have no proof using the magnets makes my sharpening any better, I do feel that getting the metal shavings out of the water circulation can only help my end product.  I'll bet that is why the T-8 comes with a magnet now. 

The neodymium magnets are so strong they collect much more metal right in the water than taping them to the side of the water tray ever would.

I have not experienced any rusting of the magnets, but who cares, they are free and plentiful. Interesting is the size of the metal shavings as I look at my course, medium and fine stoned Tormeks.  Sometimes it is difficult to wipe the metal shavings off the magnet, but that just shows how strong neodymium magnets really are.   I just let the magnets air-dry when I am finished for the day.

If you have or know someone who can get you some old computer hard disk drives, take them apart and save the magnets from them.  I found most drives come apart with a #0 or #1 Phillips screw driver or T4 and T5 torx drivers.

Let me know your thoughts please.

John

The level of work on this calculator is way above my ability. If someone takes the time to watch your video in the link there is so much your TormekCalc does.  I have multiple machines and have different grit wheels on them. Talk about making this an easy and accurate endeavor. Thank you.

Yes, I am freeloader-shaming here. The level of work deserves some donations to defray his costs and maybe put a little cash in his pocket.  There are two other people that I know sell a tormek calculator for good money.  This is original work, not copies of anybody's efforts. I am donating to him.  Please help by doing the same.  I will use paypal.

John

Could you possibly share the link to the diamond plates you are purchasing?  There are many sellers and I have no way of determining their quality.  Thank you.

Ken,

Thank you for the link. All tormek owners owe it to themselves to watch the video. Good education.

It makes sense about CBN vs diamond. As soon as I start regularly sharpen and make some money I may just purchase a diamond wheel.

John