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Messages - sbachner

#1
You could get a machinst to make a universal support that suites your needs.
#2
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: molding planes
May 03, 2010, 02:44:08 PM
Well, better late than never.  ;)

I did my first round blades this weekend using the SVD-110 in the vertical position. I don't know if Tormek ever intended round blades to be sharpened this way, but it worked, for the most part.
#3
My experience shows the TT-50 to be much faster and easier to use.
#4
General Tormek Questions / Re: Grinding wheels....
November 13, 2008, 12:49:33 AM
I seem to put the wheel out of shape quickly with the stone grader when I use the edge or increase pressure.
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: Grinding wheels....
November 12, 2008, 10:11:18 PM
On a kinda related note....

I sharpened a few draw knives using the universal support in the horizontal position.  At the same time, I kept the TT-50 setup in the vertical position (I have 2 universal supports).  I really liked this arrangement because I could quickly "rough up" the wheel with the TT-50.

For chisels though, I use the universal support in the vertical position.  Unfortunately, the TT-50 doesn't quite reach the wheel when it's used in the horizontal position.  Just wondering if you thought of ever using the TT-50 in the horizontal position?

This would only apply for grinding.  I never tried grinding a chisel/plane iron in the horizontal position; maybe that would do for just the grinding step?

Thanks Jeff!

Cheers,
SteveB.

p.s. sorry for "sounding" impatient...I was really just curious since the wheels are available at The Best Things and this issue is always at the top of the list for those who like to bash the Tormek
#6
General Tormek Questions / Grinding wheels....
November 10, 2008, 04:12:00 PM
Why are the SB-250 and SJ-250 not mentioned on the Tormek website?

Also, using the TT-50 to "rough up" the standard wheel helps reduce grinding time.  Would use of the SB-250 alone reduce grinding time further?

Finally, what are the approximate grits of the SB-250 and SJ-250?

Cheers,
SteveB.
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re:TT-50
December 19, 2006, 03:46:37 PM
Thanks Jeff!

Merry Christmas,
SteveB.
#8
General Tormek Questions / TT-50
December 19, 2006, 04:19:59 AM
Could someone describe the TT-50 and where I get one?

Thanks,
SteveB.
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re:Convex scissors
October 31, 2006, 01:02:22 PM
Jeff will be along to help with the scissors question.

The best way to learn is to "just do it", ask questions, and then "just do it" again.  I believe Jeff has a scissors video here as well.
#10
I do have the knife jig and now I have an excuse to take it out of the box  ;D.

If I can't get it to work with one of the Tormek jigs, I probably build a simple jig.

Thanks for your timely help Jeff  :).

SteveB.
#11
Here are a few pictures Jeff.  First the blade itself,



The rectangular section is 3/8" wide by 2 1/4".  The overall blade width is 3/4".

Here's the bladed mounted in the jig,



and here's the jig on the Tormek,



I just realized that's not a good pic since you can't see the tool rest.  But, the tool rest is down all the way and the bevel is not aligned.

I'm probably goofing something up  :).  Thanks for helping.
#12
Thanks Jeff.

I tried that but the castings(?) on the bottom of the jig contacted the wheel when the jig was adjusted to the blades bevel angle.  I only tried it with the tool rest in the vertical position.  I'll double check it and try it on the other side of the machine.

I may just build a simple holding jig also.

Thanks,
SteveB.
#13
The Veritas low angle spoke shave blade is very narrow, too narrow for the straight blade jig.  And I couldn't accomadate it on the tool reset either.  I sharpened it by hand, but I was curious how to do it using the Tormek?

Thanks,
SteveB.
#14
General Tormek Questions / Re:Diamond grading tool
October 11, 2006, 01:56:33 PM
I've found that you need to be very patient to get a smooth surface on the wheel.  I move the dresser very slowly across the wheel, and many times retrace the area.  I use the forefinger of my right hand to apply pressure against the dresser (I move the dresser from left to right with the wheel on my left).  At the same time, I use my left thumb to push the dresser.  This kinda forces me to go slow.  Keep retracing the stone until the dresser hits the hard stop for the entire width of the stone.  I determine that more by the sound of the dresser contacting the stone, i.e., when you don't here contact, you're finished.

It just takes a little time, but it is worth it  :).
#15
Ahhhhh....very good point.  I'll try the straight edge jig again.

Thanks,
SteveB.