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Another question the actual sharpening is done edge trailing, ie with the wheel turing away from the edge?

I personally find it quite ironic how people can discuss (and argue) about how various types of natural stones need to be used for sharpening a knife

My training was electronics and I have been interested in Hi-Fi all my life. It is the same there but far worse. Some of the claims are interesting to say the least!

I am into audio too... some of them folks are crazy, and will spend large sums of money on their crazy!

Thanks Ken, I will go out to the shop and try after watching the video this week. Oh yea after I buy a TTS-100 too.

@KenS do you then use SVS-50 for the chisel? Your method sounds neat an repeatable I just am having a hard time visualizing it.

I have a fickle relationship with my K8. The KS-123 is a game changer for knife setup, I just ordered one, but have not been able to actually touch one. I'm thinking why can I not use it for chisels and other tools?

Thanks to all who replied. Using the corner and leaning into the machine with the stone grader did the trick

Hi,
I'm new to the Tormek world, and I am sharpening all my woodworking tools. While sharpening my chisels I found the stone cut very rapidly. I understand this is due to the width of the blade. When I transitioned to the plane irons it seems after re-truing the stone it got fairly smooth rather quickly. I used the stone grader to keep the wheel course, but it still seemed to not cut as fast as "I think it should". I have never graded the wheel to 1000 grit. How frequently do I need to regrade the stone?