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My attempt making a jig didn't work out. The jig did, but it doesn't work like I thought--doesn't work at all. So--I reshaped an old smaller skew free hand on a dry grinder with the Norton 3x wheels. It worked good--after watching Alan Lacer's videos many times. Now I want to try to sharpen it on the Tormek's SVD-110 tool rest in the vertical position. One question I have is if the tool is initially sharpened on an 8" wheel that gives it a hollow grind, how will that work then to resharpen on a 10" wheel? Another question: Do Tormek users hone their skews with a diamond hone, or does the leather wheel do such a good job that honing isn't necessary?

I bought an Alan Lacer skew--I think it's 3/8" thick and 1-3/8" wide. I'm trying to decide how I'm going to sharpen it. Alan sharpens free hand. You could do that on the Tormek--I think. But I've been wondering why I couldn't make a jig just for the Lacer grind. It would kind of be like the SVS-50. For starters I might try to make it barely wide enough for the big skew to fit in--that would take care of centering issues. Then I would have the front rounded so that it would pivot on the USB. There would still be an element of free-handed grinding involved--especially with the skew angle--but it seems like the bevel angle would be more consistent and a single facet bevel would be easier for me. Probably set it all up using the marker method.

Anyone care to give additional input?

I received my Tormek about 2 months ago and mine is the die cast version. That is what is pictured on Amazon now, too.

Is there any update on sharpening the Alan Lacer skew with the Tormek? How do Tormek users sharpen the Lacer grind?