Quote from: RickKrung on October 25, 2018, 05:42:41 AM
I'm with Rich on this. I've done it, but I have touched up the primary before changing to the secondary facets. I find that this happens when I have ground too far on the primaries and the leading edge is not in line with the lines on the jig. This usually means the projection has shortened, so I move the bit out a little to reset the projection also.
Rick
Quote from: RichColvin on October 25, 2018, 04:03:23 AM
Walter,
You can, but I recommend that after you rotate the bit, you slightly re-grind the primary bevels again. That way you will be setup for making the secondary bevels. I don't like rotating the bit between those grinds, and not doing that has served me well.
Kind regards,
Rich
Spent the day grinding.
A fellow that I met who works in a boat yard got to talking drill bits and sure enough he had some bits that I could work on. A 1/2 inch bit was in really bad shape was one of them. . He had tried to sharpen it on a grinder and there was about 5 different angles on both sides. I figured that this would fall into the well worn category.For the bits used in the boat yard I made the decision to use the 9 degree angle for the lip clearance because they work with Stainless and from the way I've seen some of those boys lay the weight on to get their dull bits to drill I figured a slower cut in softer metal may help with heat. I line up the cutting edges to the diagonal lines, and started grinding. As I go along I'm checking, the edge isn't moving to the straight line at all. So I ended up setting up the bit to straight lines after I had the primaries done and reground. All came out good. Still stumped as to why the edge didn't move though.