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If you are sharpening customer's knives I would recommend against altering the bolster unless you have shown them what it will look like and have written authorization. Some knives also have a hollow bolster that you could grind into. The other thing I do to prevent scratching is to use painter's tape beneath the clamping area.

No customers, just our knives and those from friends/family.  No charge, ever. 
"Never make your hobby your work" or something like that.

Yes, bolstered knives and yes I have been working one side too much before moving to the other.  I suspected this was the issue or part of it so I'm glad for the confirmation.  Stone is true/square so it is my technique causing the recurve or smile. 

Thank you

By dishing do you mean à slight recurve or as I call it a smile?
Is this happening on all knives or particularly those with bolsters?
If it's a general occurrence I would suggest alternating your passes each time, don't work one side of the blade until you get a burr and then go to the other side. Work each side of the blade one pass, heel to tip then flip. Heel to tip on the other side then flip, one pass etc.
If it's bolstered knives in particular then you are over grinding at the heel due to the bolster getting in your way. Consider grinding down that bolster unit it is no longer impacting the process.
I don't think it's your stone causing this unless it's very much out of true. At the very least re square it to eliminate this variable.
I had a similar problem to start with but the practice of continually flipping the blade after each pass largely put paid to this problem. You will find a way with your technique to stop this happening.

I've been using my T8 with the supplied stone wheel for a few years.  This weekend I sharpened about 40 knives for family/friends and some ended up with some "dishing" (may not be the correct word) near the heel of the blade.  I check the true of my wheel before every session and don't apply heavy pressure (I think) when sharpening.  2 of the knives are my own kitchen knives and I've not noticed this happening before.  Any suggestions on what to look for or change in my technique?

So I've set up my new T8, I have the hand tool kit and have sharpened a few cheapo Sam's club knives and tried my hand at my 20 yr old Henckels.  The Henckels have been dull for a long time.  I used the suggested 15 degree (30 inclusive) and it took a long time to get any burr.  I used the wheel at 1000 grit.  Are these knives made from steel that is generally harder?  Any pointers on sharpening these in general?

thanks

They're not particularly hard steel... it is not unexpected that 20 year old knives sharpened at 15 deg. would take a bit of time... (I think older Henckels usually came at around 20 deg.)... especially if you did them with the stone graded fine.  I'm guessing you now have a noticeably wider bevel?  So, two things to "overcome"... the new angle, and probably very dull knives.

Only real suggestion would be to do some of the initial work with the stone graded coarse, to speed things up.  If you mark a knife bevel with a Sharpie marker, and you want to sharpen at a specific angle, and notice that you're removing marker at the top of the bevel (away from the edge), that's a good indication to start with the coarser setting.  Then when you establish a good bevel, you can switch to the finer grit, if desired, to finish the edge.

BTW, nothing wrong with them at 15° (if they were originally higher)... should be fine... (if not you can always put a small microbevel on at a higher angle).

Does the stone grader accelerate wear on the stone?  I was unclear on this point or if it had been measured in any way.

Thanks for the reply.  I have a lot to learn.  The videos make using this thing soooo easy.  I can see why there are so many for sale used with little use.

So I've set up my new T8, I have the hand tool kit and have sharpened a few cheapo Sam's club knives and tried my hand at my 20 yr old Henckels.  The Henckels have been dull for a long time.  I used the suggested 15 degree (30 inclusive) and it took a long time to get any burr.  I used the wheel at 1000 grit.  Are these knives made from steel that is generally harder?  Any pointers on sharpening these in general?

thanks

Yes, that is a bummer. Unless you got a super deal on the handtool kit, I would suggest returning it if possible. Others may disagree, however, I have two problems with kits: 1) The kits usually include at least one item you will probably never use. 2) Tormek is continuously redesigning and improving the jigs. Granted, yesterday's jigs work as well today as they did yesterday. However, the new jigs work better, sometimes substantially better. If you have immediate need for the jigs, this is no problem. It's the jigs you think you might want someday which become outdated before they are used.

Be patient. Tormeks, new and used, are not rare.

Ken

I did get a deal ($150 shipped)  Got a deal on the T-8 also.  No complaints here.

av8r,

Most of the T7s were sold with a 7+3 (ten year) warranty. You definitely want to contact Tormek support and work with the seller to get the warranty transferred to you. Tormek has an ironclad warranty. Do not miss out on it!

Ken

The guy flaked out on me so I'm back looking at either a new T8 or a used T7.  Bummer too as I had already bought the hand tool kit (HTK706) and now have nothing to use it with!

I have often stated that when debating between Tormek models there are no bad choices, only choices which might fit your particular needs more closely. You won't go wrong with either a T8 or a T7 (or a T4 or a SuperGrind at the right price). My favorite Tormek is whichever one is ready to go.

Do let us know how things work out for you. Also, be sure to check with support ([email protected]). You may have some warranty time remaining with a T7 if you register it online through the Tormek website. You can also access the latest edition of the handbook after you register, as well as some very goid videos.

Ken

Thanks, Ken.  This unit is 9 months old so should have some warranty left.

av8r,

Welcome to the forum. You ask a very good question. I think the SE-77 square edge jig being included with the T8 is just continuing the tradition of including the current square edge jig. That seems puzzling to me because the Tormek is mostly marketed to knife sharpeners in Europe and woodturners in the US., neither of which needs a square edge jig.

I checked the Advanced Machinery website just now. I found at seperate listing for the T8 with a chef's package. Here is the link:

https://www.advmachinery.com/collections/tormek-t-8-system-packages/products/tormek-t-8-chefs-package

I am not a fan of jig and accessory packages, however, this might be your best solution.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Thanks...confusing to be sure.  Caused me to look for something used instead and I found a T7 with HTK706 and some other extras for $600 so I'm just going to go that route.

I was ready to order a T-8, but then looked at what's included.  It doesn't appear to come with a jig to sharpen knives.  That can't be correct, yes?

That is correct... it does not.

Tormek sells "kits" "systems" or "bundles"... (described differently depending on where you shop)... these include extra jigs based on what you want to sharpen.  For example a "Hand Tool Kit" has the jigs for sharpening knives, axes and scissors... "Woodturner's Kit" has jigs for sharpening gouges, scrapers, skews, etc.

For knives, look for the "Hand Tool Kit" or some places sell a "Chef's Bundle"... these have the jigs for sharpening knives.

Thanks.  I did see the HTK705 and 706.  Just surprising to me that a device marketed as a knife sharpener and costs over $700 doesn't come with a jig to sharpen a knife or offer that as an option if I don't need the square edge jig (trade one for the other)

I was ready to order a T-8, but then looked at what's included.  It doesn't appear to come with a jig to sharpen knives.  That can't be correct, yes?