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I am probably wrong, but it seemed to me that the stone was a bit softer when new.  Now that it has worn a bit (just slightly under the 250 mark) it seems to be more stable.

On the other hand....it may have nothing to do at all with stone hardness and everything to do with new user inexperience.

I had the same problem initially.  After the oil sets for awhile it gets less slippery and more sticky.  I didn't sand anything....I just waited 24 hours and it seemed to work good.  Any further belt dressing done by me will be when I'm done using my machine for the day, and won't use it again for several days.

.....To get this fine of a stone face you have to go a step further than the dressing stone that comes with the machine.  Dress the stone with the fine side as instructed.  However, kick it up a knotch and dress it further with a fine diamond stone.  This results in a stone face that is as smooth as glass.

Finally, I intend to buy another stone for my machine and a quick take-off knob like what's on the leather wheel.  I'll use two different stones on my machine.  The fine one I have now, and a courser one for faster cutting.

Jeff

Once you have used your stone grader a bit more, and it starts to develop a cup eual to the stone's shape, it will smooth the stone faster and smoother.  You will not need anything else.

As for two stones, for knives, you rarely if ever need the fast cutting action.  I think re-grading the stone to coarse the few times you would need it would be more logical than buying another $130 grindstone.

Glad you're getting along well with your system.

So far I'm still finishing with the diamond hones, but the dressing stone is maturing and breaking in well.  I find that just light pressure with the diamond hones does the trick.

Since that post I agree with you and have come to the conclusion that two stones are unnecessary.  On the rare occasions when I would need a faster cutting stone it is very easy to 'rough it up' and then smooth it out again

I think if I were sharpening odd shaped carving or turning tools I'd have a separate stone, or if I was a knifemaker I'd have a separate stone.

Overall still very pleased with the machine.  It runs quiet and turns without any wiggles or other distracting problems.

Let me chime in on this one.

The last grit you use on the stone will have a lot to do with the final polished surface of the bevel after leather honing.

I have used my machine now for a couple of months and the only thing I have sharpened have been knives.  I do intend to get a scissor jig soon, however.

I have discovered that the finest grit on the stone suits my purposes the best.  I have also discovered that refinishing my stone's face regularly helps a lot.  I apologize if I'm not using correct terminology.

Here's my regimen.  I take the course side of the stone supplied with the machine and use it first on the face of the wheel, followed by the finer side.  I do this fairly often because it seems to keep the wheel face square.  I also put a little bevel on the edges of the stone.

After polishing with both sides of the stone supplied by tormek, I use a medium grit diamond bench hone and a very fine grit diamond bench hone.  With each of these I use light pressure and polish the face of the wheel.

After doing this the face of my stone feels like glass.

The wheel cuts much slower, of course; but man what a pretty bevel it produces.  Following it with the leather hone makes the bevel shine like a mirror and the knife is razor sharp.

Speaking of razors.  I did successfully sharpen a straight razor...and it shaves magnificently.  It took some doing; and I didn't even attempt to use the knife jig.

My procedure was to stand in FRONT of the machine, and gently sharpen the razor by hand on the stone wheel.  Then I honed on the leather wheel.  I can't describe the procedure in detail, you just have to try it for yourself.  Just remember that the spine of the straight razor is your angle guide.  I basically held the blade flat, and applied more finger pressure toward the cutting edge and let the spine rest on the stone with as little pressure as possible.  Engage the wheel with the spine first to get oriented to the stone, then tip the blade until the cutting edge comes into contact with the stone.

I've had this machine for a couple of months now.  I bought it to sharpen knives and scissors.

I have to say it is an outstanding machine for this purpose.  There's a bit of a learning curve.  Knives come in so many shapes and sizes it is experience that does the trick.  Fortunatly, I have a big box full of knives I have accumulated over the years that I bought, grew disappointed with, and eventually put away because I could never sharpen them the way I wanted to.

A lot of people, myself included, think sharpening knives is some kind of big mystery.  Well, it isn't the simplest thing to understand, but it's not brain surgery either.

My revelation came when I realized that my inability to adequately sharpen a knife wasn't necessarily the result of incompetence.  In a nutshell it's inadequate equipment.

I have discovered that even the best knives you can buy are 'diamonds in the rough'.  They are mass produced and even though they are well thought-out tools, they suffer from a lack of the 'human touch'.  They aren't customized...so to speak.

The factory edge on any knife must be customized if it is to reach its full potential.  This is precisely where the tormek comes in.

It's all in the bevel.

Factory bevels are all wrong.  First of all, they are mass produced.  Secondly, they are way to steep.

It's all in the bevel.

On a simple blade, I've noticed all that's needed is to decrease the angle of the bevel.

It's all in the bevel.

On larger, thicker and more complicated blades a bit more thought goes into it.  I will actually regrind two bevels.  A shallow bevel that doesn't take it to a keen edge, then a steeper bevel for the finish.

Did I mention it's all in the bevel?

Second big thing is the stone.  That stone has to have the flattest face possible.  Sharpening knives lends itself to this, however; I pay particular attention to wearing the stone evenly.

Third big thing....the face of the stone has to be smooth as glass.  It cuts much slower this way, but the control is much enhanced and the bevel is smooth and shiny.  My stone face is so smooth it actually puts a polished edge on the knife.

To get this fine of a stone face you have to go a step further than the dressing stone that comes with the machine.  Dress the stone with the fine side as instructed.  However, kick it up a knotch and dress it further with a fine diamond stone.  This results in a stone face that is as smooth as glass.

Finally, I intend to buy another stone for my machine and a quick take-off knob like what's on the leather wheel.  I'll use two different stones on my machine.  The fine one I have now, and a courser one for faster cutting.

Jeff

I'm only making this a new thread so that it will get 'bumped' up where it gets noticed.

I've had my machine for several days now.  So far I can only think of one improvement.

I bought a little cheapie, battery powered, gooseneck light.  It's just a single led on the end of a flexible shaft.  It clamps anywhere and I can point the beam right at the work.

That would make a nice accessory, or maybe even a replaceable part of the machine.

I can hardly wait to try it for myself!!

Thank you, Jeff, for a prompt reply.

My results may be awhile coming...but if I am successful I'll post my results here.

Hi there...newbie on board.

I ordered my new machine today from sharptools usa.

I intend to use my machine mainly for knives and household/garden/garage tools.

I enjoy shaving with a straight razor now and then.  There is no smoother shave I'm telling you.  Sometimes I can get my wife to give me a shave 'barber style'.

I have a small fortune wrapped up in razors.  They stay sharp if you strop them with each use, but in time they get a bit dull and then it's not a pleasure to use them anymore.  My solution was to buy a new razor.  Eventually, I did find a source to sharpen them but it's a pain.  I've tried hand hones and they don't work either.

Watching the video it appears that the machine might to a good job.  Since my razors all have a straight blade..ie no curve to the edge; I think the general purpose jig will work.

The one issue I have is the concave grind of the razors.  Straight razors have a super hollow grind starting with a relatively wide spine and tapering to a very thin edge.

Has anyone tried this?  I suspect the two main issues are going to be fitting the blade into the jig, and determining proper cutting angle which will be significantly less than 40 degrees.

I do recall somewhere that the grinding angle is nearly flat.  Stropping is done completely flat.

Also...will the 1000 grit of the wheel be fine enough?