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It appears to be the drive wheel.  Tormek support had me remove the honing wheel and when I did it revealed that the rubber on the honing wheel was totally chewed up.  All frayed and chunks of rubber missing.  Really weird.  I've never abused my Tormek at all.  Just standard use and really not all that many hours on the machine.  Hopefully it's covered by the warranty.  I'll keep y'all posted.

Thanks Ken.  I did resolve the out of square issue.  I got in the habit of just checking the blade with a square when I'm grinding.  If I don't compensate, it will still grind out of square.  But if I just pay attention to what is going on then I simply overcompensate with grinding pressure on the high side.  It really is no trouble anymore.  I just can't go to sleep at the wheel. .

Thanks Ken.  I'll email support and report back for posterity.

Hi all.  I've had my T4 for about 6 months.  Today I changed the stone from 1000 grit to 250 grit with supplied stone.  I did not change the wheel.  I merely pressed the stone against the wheellike in the directions.  I used firm pressure but nothing out of the ordinary.  I've done this many times.  Nevertheless, the whole machine started wobbling and bouncing all of the sudden.  FWIW I was using the T4 for about 15 minutes with no problems right before this started.

I removed the wheel and turned it on.  It did the same thing without the wheel attached.  Bouncing and wobbling.  However, I noticed a deformity on the inside of the hole in the wheel.  I assume the deformity isn't the problem though since it wobbled without the wheel attached. 

Any ideas?  Thanks!!

Just got a t4 after a year of free hand sharpening.  I just could not muster the will to reset another primary bevel with sandpaper.  So a t4 and se77 were purchased.

Got everything set up, followed the directions, set the angle with the angle master, and got a burr across the back. 

To my dismay the blade was out of square by about 1/16 of an inch (pretty significant).  So I read through all the topics and videos I could find on the subject.  I realized I hadn't tightened the support bar.  So I did that.  I also rested the support on the stone and it was parallel except maybe 1/32 low on the very inside corner, maybe 1/64).  But it didn't seem to be a gradual slope, more like a slightly out of square corner.  I don't have a truing tool yet, but I've ordered one.

Next I drew a line across the stone as shown in the booklet for Japanese chisels.  Put the blade back int the se77 and the blade was almost perfectly parallel to the line.  It was off by about 1/64.  But it's hard to say that's accurate because sharpies bleed a bit.  Close enough anyway I would think.

I finally got a square blade by continually checking with a tiny starret square and adjusted accordingly through the sharpening.  I guess it's not too much of a pain but I would like to figure out how to do this with the confidence that it will come out shraight without continuously adjusting.

Any new thoughts on this topic?  Thanks!!