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I have only been using mine for about 2 months, not a long time.  But, I have not experienced any noticeable wear thus far.  The diamond stones start out very aggressive until they settle in.

What Twisted Trees said makes sense to me now.  Since I wanted to try a 40° angle on my bevel, I changed my protrusion to 75mm and ended up having to take more off the nose and wing to get it straight.  I spent 1-1/2 hours on it, mainly because I went really slowly with my 1750 rpm grinder to prevent over heating the steel.  What helped me the most was flattening the gouge with the side of the stone.  Then I could see where to take off more metal by the width of the flat spots until I got all the flat spots back to sharp.  I got it pretty straight, there maybe only .005-.008" of concavity left in there. I'll work on that as I use it and re-sharpen.  This particular gouge is really tough to keep straight, not sure if it is the deepness of the flute or the U-shape.  I have a Sorby 5/8" diameter gouge with the parabolic flute and I have no trouble keeping it straight.  Hopefully, practice will make it easier.

How do others set their rake angle?  I set this by eyeball as I ground the cutting edge straight on the side of the stone.  Can you set the rake angle to anything you desire just by controlling your rotation of the SVD-186?  Or is there more of a limited rake angle range based on the SVD-186 settings that are being used?  My rake angle ended up being about 60°.

I am an active member in two other forums that are hosted by the manufacturer,  just like this forum.  Both of those forums have a separate sub-forum for "For Sale/Wanted" items.  I have been a member of one of those forums for 10 years.

As a consumer, I would vote for having a for sale/wanted section.  But, as the manufacturer, I could definitely see the opposite point of view for not having one.  There are good arguments to be had for either/or.  I would definitely respect Tormek's decision either way.   I greatly appreciate Tormek providing this forum.

I really wanted to avoid taking more off the nose.  This flute is so deep, that even now, there is not much of a bevel to ride against the wood.  When doing a push cut on the outside of a bowl there is very little margin of error to keep the tool from vibrating.  I think a longer wing would also be nice for when I use it for scraping.

Hello All - I am having trouble getting the wings straight on my D-Way bowl gouge as you can see in the picture.  It is 3/4" diameter with a deep U-shape.  I am using my SVD-186 with hole A, P=65mm, and JS=2.  To correct this, I tried to grind the wings straight on my 1750 rpm grinder, then re-shaped them with the SVD-186 and the BGM-100.  Once I got close to sharp, I finished up on the Tormek SG-250 wheel.  That concave wing came right back.  After looking at it, I don't think it is possible to get the wings straight with the 65mm protrusion.  I can't rotate the gouge far enough before it hits the support bar.  With this large diameter gouge with such a deep flute, I believe that I need to move to a 75mm protrusion.  I set it up this way just to eyeball the situation and it seems like this will allow me to take more steel off at the end of the wings to get me back straight.

Does this sound like the problem?  Anything that I maybe missing?  Thanks

I purchased a DF-250 (Fine) stone just a few weeks ago.  So far, I have only sharpened bowl gouges and scrapers with it.  The diamond will sharpen aggressively at first just as the instructions mention.  I am just now at the point where the diamonds have started to settle in and grind consistently.  In my opinion, the DE-250 would be way too fine.  I'm second guessing a little that maybe I should have bought the DC-250.  All the woodturners that I know using 1750rpm bench grinders use no finer than a 180 grit CBN wheel.  The main thing that I like about the diamond wheel is that glazing of the stone is eliminated.

But, what if my shaft or universal support is out of square instead of the diamond wheel?

I have one other concern before purchasing the diamond wheel.  What if your tool rest is slightly out of square with the wheel?  With a stone wheel you can simply dress the wheel with the TT-50 and you are square to the tool rest.  Since you can't dress the diamond wheel, do you just have to live with the out of square condition? 

This wouldn't make much of a difference sharpening gouges, but definitely would affect wood chisels and plane irons.

Mike - Do you use the 1200 grit diamond wheel?

I am looking at purchasing one of the diamond wheels for my woodturning tools, mainly bowl gouges and scrapers.  I am leaning toward the coarse (360 grit) stone.  This is because my woodturning mentor uses CBN wheels on his 1750rpm bench grinder.  He uses a 220 grit CBN wheel for his final sharpening and his tools feel razor sharp off the 220 grit wheel.  He has tried higher grit CBN wheels, but likes the 220 grit.

Does anyone have any experience with the different diamond wheel grits for bowl gouges and scrapers?

As an update, I re-dressed my wheel with the truing tool and that solved 90% of my problem.  I think that I had just built up a glaze that the stone grader couldn't remove.  I also purchased the LA-120 profiling wheel.  The LA-120 helped my sharpness quite a bit.  My procedure know is to grind, hone the outside with the leather wheel, then hone the inside with the LA-120.  I can usually shave the hairs on my arm now.

Rich - Thanks for the reply, good info!  Do you use the LA-120 profile wheel at all for gouges?

Hello All - I am using the SVD-185 to sharpen my bowl gouges, then using the leather wheel.  My gouges are standard M2 steel (Robert Sorby).  It seems that I can't get a razor sharp edge.  I get a sharp edge for sure, but it seems less sharp than what my buddy gets on his 1750 rpm grinder with a CBN wheel.  To me, it almost seems like the leather honing wheel dulls the edge just a little by honing the outside.  I wonder if I should get the LA-120 profile leather wheel and only hone the inside?

I have graded my stone with the SP-650 which helped.  What stones work best with bowl gouges?

When grinding the negative rake scraper in the vertical position, a burr is not created, correct?  In this case, do you produce the burr using a burnishing tool?

Well, the final price of the Supergrind 2000 was $402 with the buyer fee and sales tax included.  That was too steep for me.  It did include a little ShopFox table that is $50 new, a grading stone, and  honing paste.  It was in great shape, but that was a lot to pay for a unit that is two revisions old.  I did pick up some nice woodworking odds and ends though, so not all was lost.  The best thing that I got was a whole box of various sharpening stones, such as slip stones, arkansas stones, round and square stones.

Brad