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Hi,

I sharpen alot of knives for people and want to be able to take my T4 with me in the car and use it at the customers house, with a 12v to 220v inverter to make power directly from the 12v plug in the car. Has anyone here done anything similar? I have found an inverter that will produce 150 watt, which should be enough for the T4 which requires 120 watt.

Have anyone on here done something similar, and if so, how does it work? Any other suggestions, if you dont want to rely on the customer providing power. Would also like to hear from anyone who has a mobile rig, what other things do you recommend, table, chair, etc.

Best regards,
John

Hi,

I live in Denmark and I am looking to buy this set, but only one supplier is selling the case and storage tray here in Denmark and it won't be in stock for 2-3 months. Anyone know where I can buy in within EU? Anyone selling it second-hand?

Best regards,
John

Yay! It's really coming along now.  Just tried again with another knife with great results. Seems like I've not been paying enough attention to the angle. 

I tried sharpening the knife from grit 250->1000->leather honing->4000 waterstone. But finishing off with the waterstone actually made the knife less sharp than when I tested the sharpness right after I did the leather honing. I then used the leather hone again after the waterstone and got a good result. What is your guys procedure? Do you skip the leather hone if you're using the waterstone or finish with it instead?

I tried some of the advice today, I was giving in this thread. I decided to focus on one knife like Ken suggested, and I also used a pocket magnifier and took my time making sure the angle was spot on, before I started sharpening - and lo and behold, I just sharpened my first hair popping sharp knife. I didn't use the waterstone, but just the leather honing wheel, not sure if I could have gotten it even sharper, if I finished it off with the waterstone?

Ofcause I wanted to try and duplicate the result on another knife right away, but didn't quite get the same result. Still got it very, very sharp, but maybe lacking the last 5%. I will try again tomorrow.

How important is the angle when using the waterstone? Do I need to pay the same amount of attention to the angle as when I'm using the sharpening stone? The reason I ask is because I always hone freehand (on the leather wheel) and it doesn't seem to be that important if I hit the exact same/right angle when honing - but I might be completely wrong?

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I think I am finally on the road to cracking the code. :-)

I'm using the sharpie method and it works okay, the problem I am left with is that my knifes get sharp, but not super razor hair popping sharp, like I could get with my Lansky system. I wonder why I can't get the last 10%. Maybe I am too impatient when I sharpen and dont take enough time. How many passes or minutes do you guys use on your knifes, if you're sharpening from grit 250->1000->honing?

Hey Ken,

Thanks for your reply. I have looked at the Kenjig and it looks like a very useful jig. However most of my folding knives are not 30 degrees, mainly 20 and 25. Should I make a seperate jig for those then or just reprofile them to 30 degrees?

I also had a brief look at the Dutchman booklet, but it looks sorta complicated, so I 'm not sure how helpful it will be for me. :-)

It centainly helps alot, thanks mate. I will try with a small pocket magnifier, never thought of that. :-)

Hey guys,

Another question from a newbie here. How do you maintain your leather honing wheel? My Tormek is set up in a very dry and warm workshop (same room as the furnace) and I was wondering if I should condition the honing wheel with the oil every now and then? I did it when I first broke in the machine a few months ago, but haven't done it since. I have only used the honing paste since then, every time I hone. The leather on the wheel seems very dry to the touch, is that normal?

Thanks for the reply - very useful!

I haven't quite figured out the Tormek yet though. I also have the Lansky system with diamond stones and with that system I can get razor sharp results, but I am finding it a bit more difficult on the Tormek for some reason.

I use the sharpie method. I don't find the anglemaster very useful on smaller folding knives, which is mostly what I sharpen. Also, I have run into a problem when sharpening my Global kitchen knives, which have a very narrow small edge. I can't really use the sharpie method, since the edge is very shallow. There's really no room for the sharpie to leave a mark. Any advice?

Learning how to sharpen is really a process. :-)

I mostly use the knife-jig, but I also go freehand from time to time. The one incident where the knife caught the stone and left a nasty mark was when I was using the knife-jig. It was towards the edge of the stone   it happened. I think the knife was at a too steep of an angle and that is probably why it happened.

Another thing I was wondering, when you sharpen a knife, do you take from grit 250 every time or only when you need to reprofile? I am new to knife sharpening, so I am still learning and trying to figure out best practice.

Hi,

I was wondering what the best practice is when using the Japanese waterstone (SJ-200). Do I use the stone rotating towards the knife or away from it? I have tried both and can't seem to figure out, which works best. However I have experienced the knife blade "catching" on the stone when rotating towards the knife, which left a very nasty cut mark on the stone, which I had to remove with the truing tool. How do you guys use the stone?