Messages

Eric, you ask a very good question. I have never actually seen the answer in print. There are essentially two groups of Tormek models, those with 200mm diameter grinding wheels and those with 250mm diameter grinding wheels. Except for the grinding wheels and universal supports, all jigs and accessories are completely interchangeable.

The Kenjig uses the tables Dutchman posted on the forum several years ago. Fortunately, Dutchman is not as wordy as I am, so a search of his posts will quickly locate his tables. I recommend downloading and printing them.

The little steel plate in the photo is what I call a substitute target. I find it an easier to use auxialliary method than just the Anglemaster. Both methods can be used. Use your judgement; the practical one for the situation wins. For those who want more precision, Wootz' Knifegrinders computer program is excellent.

I designed the kenjig with maximum simplicity in mind. It can be made for any angle and wheel diameter. Fifteen or twenty degrees will probably completely satisfy most users. I like Jan's double ended design. It is a definite improvement, but requires slightly more presence of mind. In the interest of dimplicity, I might lean toward to two clearly labelled kenjigs.

Do post your thoughts.

Ken

Well I am the definition of a newbie, but I will check everything out.  I found the original Kenjig instructions, but as I said, it was for the T7.  I am more of a hands on guy; with that being said, I am brushing up on my trigonometry to understand angles and such.  I am new to this.  As I have said I am starting my own knife sharpening company, an LLC. Should be up and running in 3-4 months, and no I will not solicit my company on here, it is more of a local small business company, luckily I live in Westchester NY, where there is a restaurant and deli on every corner.  However, I am into woodworking, so I want to expand my company as far as I can.  So me being here is simply for information, not solicitation.  I also will be using other sharpening tools for a more commercial use.  But I got my hands on a T8 from a friend and fell in love, so now I have to have one.  I am firm believer in buy once, buy right.  So I will use the Tormek on a daily basis.  Also because I am good with wood, and want to expand my sharpening business to helping local woodworkers.

Thank you for the information.  Much appreciated.

Eric Clement

I have a question, I have a belt grinder with a ton of leather belts that I use to sharpen serrated knives, and I am sure it can be done, does anyone have any experience using the leather wheel to sharpen serrated knives, and any tips, or even better videos that show your technique? 

Also, not really a "tormek" question, but for those that do use the leather wheel to sharpen a serrated knife, what do you use afterwards to remove the burr?

Thanks guys, a newbie here,  so any and all information would be greatly appreciated.

Kenjig is a simple but clever and useful jig/concept invented by Ken. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bye-818SN85DdzB3bU9aUU81eTg/view

You're correct, kenjig is a simple wooden block, which is used to set the edge angle for a knife in the Tormek knife jig. Ken suggested to use the projection length 139 mm, which for a 250 mm grindstone and 80 mm distance between the stone face and the universal support results in an edge angle 15 degrees.

I have modified the Ken's concept and suggested a double ended kenjig which enables to set the position of the universal support for both, the grindstone and the honing wheel. http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2654.0

I use the double ended kenjig regularly, and can confirm that setting the edge angle is much quicker and easier than with the Anglemaster.  The only disadvantage is, that kenjig dimensions depend on the stone diameter.

Excel spreadsheet entitled "KENJIG_wheel_support_distance_1" enables to calculate the wheel-support distance for given wheel radius, projection length and bevel angle. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ypbtaxgycgoyls0/KENJIG_wheel_support_distance_1.xlsb?dl=1

Jan

Hello, I opened the link for the instructions on the Kenjig, but it only shows jigs for the T4 and T7, are the T7 and T8 the same, thinking about getting a T8.

Not an expert, just going off my experience.  The first thing that comes to mind with any question on edge retention is what kind of steel.  High carbon steels hold an edge longer, as a general rule. Also, im my experience. the thinner (lower angle) does not hold and edge as long as a slightly wider (higher angle).  I could be wrong, but in my experience, this tends to be the case.