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I have sharpened Shun, I own some too, definitely not 16 per side.

Shun knives are normally double bevel 8 deg per side.
It looks like the owner has been chopping bone or frozen food, Shun knives are very prone to this sort of damage if treated badly.
I would re-profile at 15 deg per side to make the edge a bit more robust

Lots of great information in those articles kwakster, thank you for sharing.

As I understand it, full Titanium blades are quite soft and require a fair bit of maintenance, ie sharpening, therefore I would keep the angle the same as factory grind, usually 20deg both sides.

I also use Wootz program.
I also use the housing on front of the USB although I use a sliding combination square to set the height, the end of which is square to the top of the housing, maybe not as accurate as callipers but getting close.

Rick I totally understand (no pun intended) about being on your feet mate, been doing it for 38 years in cabinet shops etc.

Ken, do we have a thread/topic area where we can put a small intro or summary of what we have done/doing/skills etc and how we came across Tormeks?

I love what you have done with the Pivot Pin stop collar Rick, fantastic evolution and kept it simple too.
Let me know if your going to make a couple of extra as I would be interested for sure.

make sure the knife is not on the piss in the jig as it looks like it was the first time.

Thanks.  I don't understand what is meant in the quote above.  I'm thinking it is some kind of typo, or I need to be educated in some lingo.

Rick

No typo, ozzy slang. Basically translates to not "straight or true", To me it looks like the knife was on a slant in the jig, more grind on one side than the other.

Hi Rick
I reckon you should just resharpen on the SVM-45 knife jig, mount the knife in the jig on the top flat sides of the blade and use that nice new stop, work on reducing the angle grinds back to normal. 
Most of the uneven grinds appear to be near the tip so I would start from there and work back towards the heel, make sure the knife is not on the piss in the jig as it looks like it was the first time. Once the angles are getting close sharpen as normal.
As a note, I've found most leathermans to have uneven grinds on them, (strange as they are sharpened on cnc robotic grinders).

Me too, that one looks much more betterer 

Sharpco, I can see the curve you're talking about in the pics, can you get a better shot of the stone where the two grades are joined, against a straight edge?

I have a general frustration with knife sharpening because one has to invest a lot of time and skill and $ into sharpening a simple tool that has been around for tens of thousands of years. Unfortunately there is nothing inexpensive, simple, easy to use, correct angle, cooling, does not destroy the blade, etc, that will work 100% of the time. If it is I would like to know.

There is no simpler or easier system for consistent bevels etc than tormek
Learning how to sharpen knives or any other tool is based on acquiring skills to do so. Unfortunately you cannot just go out and buy a box of skills, most people become skilful by practicing and doing, some learn faster than others while a few will struggle with the task, it is what makes us all so very different. I suggest you could learn by doing things slowly, one step at a time, like karate kid, "wax on, wax off", do this many times and you will acquire skills.
Also watch some how to's by some of the people on here and get to it. 

Have a look at Ruland Quick Clamping shaft collars for speedy setup and adjustability, outside diameter is starting to get large on them though

That MC collar would be perfect with a hex key style grub screw like the drill stops

Good point Herman, My wife tends to chop  so the whole blade makes contact with the board at the same time  They don't last very long in her hands, I tend to slice with only the tip of the blade in contact with the board and naturally the edge retention is much better.
As a note, I have been using an old Jarrah cutting board that I made about 35 years ago, It was actually an off-cut from when i used to build staircases. Back in those days Jarrah had a better fire rating than steel and was used in fire stairs. As a cutting board it is still going great too