Messages

Jeremy -

Thanks for the tips as they were a great help for my first experience doing two sets of nicked up 15" planer blades and helped relieve a lot of frustration.  One thing I did a little different is I put a primary 35 degree bevel on the planer blades using the BGM-100 and a diamond wheel on my slow speed grinder and finished with a 40 degree micro bevel on the Tormek using the standard wheel.  It only takes a few minutes per blade to do the micro bevel and a lot less re-grading of the wheel.

I moved the locking lever on my Wolverine jig to the rear position and mounted the BGM-100 in front of it on a 3" block so I could work from the top of the wheel.  This is possible because you don't need the guard with a diamond or CBN wheel.  I also mounted it so the tool rest was the same distance from the wheel horizontally as the vertical posts on the Tormek.  This kept the jig centered over the wheel so I didn't have to reset the stops on the jig.

I also experimented with the BGM-100 adapter for the Wolverine jig but it was a little too low to be comfortable and put the planer jig too far to the right to keep it centered on the wheel.

Thanks again.

Roy       

I had the same problem with the leather wheel when I bought my used T-2000 except that it was in much worse condition.  I started by softening the leather with oil and let it set for several days.  Then I turned the machine on and used a carbide paint scraper to scrape away the crust.  I can't say that I got great results because the inside of the leather is pretty well dished out.  But before I replace it, I'm going to turn an MDF disk on my lathe and see how that works with some green stropping compound on my chisels and plane irons.   

I get what you're saying but the problem is that the side to side tool rest mounting positions are different.  When I switch from the vertical tool rest position on the Tormek to the horizontal tool rest position on the BGM-100 on my grinder the planer blade jig is no longer centered over the wheel and I'm forced to reposition the knife in the jig and adjust the stops to switch between the Tormek and the grinder.

I would have the same problem trying to switch between the vertical and horizontal mounts on Tormek because the mounting holes for the tool rest are different distances from the wheel.  My question is why the difference?  Do some jigs need to be closer or further horizontally from the wheel than others?  If so, why not just make the BGM-100 with 4 holes so it can be mounted in either position?  Or why not have 4 vertical mounts?

I used my SVH-320 planer jig for the first time yesterday and decided it was taking too long on the Tormek so I switched to the 220 grit diamond wheel on my grinder.  The problem I had is that the instructions for the BGM-100 horizontal mount call for it to be mounted about 1" further away from the wheel than the vertical posts on the Tormek which won't let you center the jig on the wheel.  I noticed that the BGM-100 horizontal mount on the  opposite side of the Tormek is also further away from the wheel as are the mounting holes for the Wolverine jig adapter.  Why the difference? If there is an advantage depending on the jig being used, why not make the BGM-100 with four holes so you can choose which one you want to use?

Ken -

Thanks for the reply.  Turns out that adjusting the plane in the jig wouldn't solve my problem because it was caused by the Wolverine arm not being coplanar with the side of the diamond wheel.  This in turn caused the Tormek jig to not be parallel to the grinding surface.  I removed one of Wolverine mounting screws and pivoted the arm very slightly to fix the problem.

Roy   

Herman -

You make a good point in regard to inserting the blade into the jig properly. Prior to the introduction of lateral adjusters on hand planes, users used to gently tap the blade on one side or the other to get it aligned.  Can I assume this will also work with the old style SVH-60 straight edge jig?

Roy

Ken -

I used the Wolverine adapter to rough out some old plane blades today on my 80 grit CBN wheel and the jig was spot on.  However, my diamond wheel on the other side was slightly out of square and I can see where the SE-77 will help.  Perhaps instead of (or in addition to) reference lines Tomek could come up with a jig that incorporates the design of the Robert Larson 800-1800 honing guide that automatically centers the blade.  Self centering with the SE-77 adjustment knobs would be perfect.

Roy

I'm new to Tormek and viewed the above mentioned videos in regard to putting a camber on plane irons.  The question I have is why there is only a single reference line for the center of the jig?  If both the front and back of the jig top were marked with multiple reference lines similar to the Veritas honing jig, it would be a simple matter to center any size plane iron.  As it is, it appears you have to mark center of the plane iron and then line it up with the single line on the jig.  Am I missing something?