Messages

Elden,

Thank you very much for providing all the links.

I'll work my way through the info and get that cleaver sharpened !

Thanks again,
Frank in Arizona

Hey Rob,

The large gouge only fits if I remove the little V-block in the SVS 50 jig which makes a perpendicular alignment and tight fit quite a challenge.
Holding the SVS 50 forward to the Universal support bar while simultaneously pushing the gouge bevel onto the sharpening stone was also quite a juggling act for me.
Add to that the fact that I might be spending several hours roughing out lamp blanks during which I need to re-sharpen the large roughing gouge many times.
Accurately repositioning the gouge back into the SVS 50 again and again is yet one more challenge, even when using a length stop block.

The flat platform at 45 degrees would also work but I'd guess I'd have difficulty rolling the gouge while maintaining forward and downward pressure on the gouge.

So ... for my particular needs a Wolverine jig, or my DIY version, is fast and easy and repeatable, plus it's much easier to hold the gouge bevel down on the grinding wheel.

I have the woodturners set of Tormek jigs which seem to work fine for bowl and spindle gouges. Just not the large roughing gouge.

I love my new Tormek and have successfully sharpened most every tool in my shop and every knife in my house.

The only troublesome tools where the large roughing gouge and my kitchen cleaver.

Any ideas on how to sharpen the cleaver

Cheers,
Frank

I made this fixture (see attached photo) for sharpening my large roughing gouge which doesn't seem to fit well in any of the TORMEK fixtures I have.
My simple DIY fixture seems to work fine for sharpening my roughing gouge.
For initial shaping I used a similar fixture on my dry grinder.

The hole in the board that slides onto the Universal Support is a slightly reamed out 15/32".
The gouge angle can be set by repositioning the sliding "V" block where the handle of the gouge fits and/or by repositioning the universal support in or out.
The angle support for the jig is wedged between the base of the TORMEK and a notch cut into the bottom of the horizontal part of the fixture.

Cheers,
Frank in Arizona

I saw the FEIT 4' shops light at Costco last year and thought I'd try one.
I can't scientifically quantify why I liked it so much, but I did end up replacing all 10(?) lights in my shop with the FEIT 4' Shop Utility lights.
One hung over every table and tool.
I liked the "instant on" feature and the pleasant bright white light they provided.

I also tried a Costco FEIT 100w 1600 lumen bulb in one of my folding arm type task lights and ended up replacing the bulbs in all my task lights.

I have one 4' shop light and two 100w task lights over my lathe.

No issues with flicker or heat.

Great for most jobs in the shop.

When I REALLY need to see small details I slip on a pair of 1.50 magnifying safety glasses, but that might have to do with old age and deteriorating eye sight rather than the brightness of the LED lights.

Considering Costcos liberal return policy you might want to TRY an LED 100w bulb and/or 4' shop light.
If you like it you can buy more.
If not, you can return it.

Good luck,
Frank

Hi.
My name is Frank.
I'm new to Tormek and new to this forum.
So far I'm enjoying both.

I'm curious why the grading stone is supposed to be held perpendicular to the grinding wheel a opposed to holding the grading stone parallel to the grinding wheel.

It would seem that by holding the 2+/-" width of the grading stone against the 2+/-" width of the grinding wheel, the grading stone would be less likely to rock and crown the grinding wheel.

Yes? No? Maybe?