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I think Tormek's angle-master is a brilliant design, it's so easy to use. However, I found that it will sometimes give a steeper bevel than what you set.  This is particularly true when you are reshaping the bevel of your iron (from a higher bevel to a lower bevel). You set the square edge jig to grind at a particular angle with the angle-master at the beginning of your session. As you start grinding, the angle starts to steepen. When you finish, the bevel angle could be 1° steeper, depending on how much re-shaping you were doing . You will have to use the angle master after you finish to re-check and re-grind if necessary.
Now, customarily 1~2° here and there wouldn't be a problem. But if you are being forced to work at a set angle in the MKII jig. It will be a lot of material to remove if it is too steep.
This situation is not nearly as affected when you use the reference method.

The angle setter is not precise and the setting does not always match that of the MKii honing jig.
Therefore, I think you have to do it by reference. What I mean is that you first need to have a sample plane iron with the exact bevel angle that you want. This plane iron could be something that you have previously ground with your MkII honing jig.
I would use the following steps in first finding the reference measurements.
1. Measure a set distance from the edge of the iron and mark a line on the back of the iron perpendicular to the edge of the blade, as in attached photo No. 1. I choose a 40mm distance from the edge and is marked with a pencil; you can use a different length if you want;
2. Place the blade in the square edge jig SE-77 and line up the front of the jig to the pencil line, and paint the bevel with a felt tip pen, as in photo No.2;
3. Place the jig on the Tormek grinder as you would if you were sharpening, but without turning on the grinder, rotate the wheel by hand while adjusting the height of the UAB, until you see the painted bevel is being rubbed off at the middle. This is when the grinding angle exactly matches that of the existing bevel. You will also notice that the sound changes, as more of the surface of the bevel is in touch with the stone, as in photo No.3;
4. Tighten the UAB first and then test it again to see if nothing has changed, adjust if necessary.
5. Use an outside calliper to capture the distance between the top of the Universal support bar and the top of the adjuster, as in photo No.4. Measure the distance of the opening with the calliper; in my case, it was 40mm. Keep that distance for reference.
6. Measure the circumference of you wheel if it is an SG type or non Diamond wheel;

When you want to get the same exact angle the next time, All you have to do is the mark the pencil line on the back of the blade in the same place (40mm in my case), put it in the jig, and set the height of the USB to the same distance from the adjuster, You will get the same angle as long as the circumference of the stone stays approximately the same.

Timber from Douglas Fir is commonly known as Oregon in Australia/NZ .

A blade of 50mm is just long enough IMHO.
As the blade is just barely long enough, I had to mark a line 30 mm from the edge and is perpendicular to the side, as the blade isn't long enough to use the notch of the square edge jig exclusively. As the attached photos, there just enough clearance to grind a 25° bevel.

A better attachment.

As shown attached. I also mounted my BGM on a block of Oregon scrap about 38mm thick. The block was fastened to the board with 4 screws from underneath. It was probably glued with polyurethane glue (I don't remember anymore). You can glue two pieces of 20mm plywoods together and use it as your block. You can minimise any flexing together by having your base board wide enough and thick enough and then glue that block on fastening the block with 4 screws.
If you can attach some photo to show flexing of the BGM, it would help us to have a clearer understanding of your problem.

Burrs on scrapers are indeed done by turning the edge over with a burnisher made from a material that is significantly harder than the scrapers themselves. The edge is usually ground straight and flat, before applying the burnisherhttps://paulsellers.com/2015/02/scraper-burnishers-that-work/ to turn the edge over in a couple of steps, first to turn it a few degrees.  Tormek can be used to prepare the edge, instead of using a file. If you still can't get a good burr, you could try grinding the edge for a 45-degree bevel before burnishing it.

Can we not just put it on a Tormek Japanese wheel to polish the blades, it seems it would do pretty much the same thing as a razor blade sharpener

Is the custom configuration only for the US or is it globally available? It may be too late for me, I just took delivery of my 2nd Tormek.

Hi,
Following up a little here.
Never use a metal bond dressing stick on CBN or Diamond wheels. They are ok to use on bench grinder wheels, they do work on SG and Blackstones but are not precise as the TT-50. In general, they work on low-speed bench grinder wheels.
There are rubber cleaning sticks that can be used on diamond and CBN which works very good. I have tried a pencil rubber just for fun which also removed metal.
But I just want it to be 100% clear that there should not be used a metal bonded dressing stick!

Best,
Stig

Is this the one you are referring to?

This topic, like many others, is one where I do not feel we have enough information to give good answers.

Are you flattening/sharpening these chisels and plane blades professionally? How many tools are involved? Do these tools have sentimental or collector's value for you? Will you be flattening backs on an ongoing basis?

My reply would be different depending on the answers to these questions.

Are you familiar with the David Charlesworth Ruler Trick? Essentially it means just flattening the edge of the back of a plane blade instead of the entire back. (an online search will explain it more fully) This does not apply to chisels.

We could (and would like to be) more helpful with more information

Ken

I am a weekend woodworker, and I have a desk job during the week. I teach hand tool woodworking from time to time, and it's my hobby to restore old planes and chisels. My sharpening setup up includes a variety of diamond plates and water stones, A Tormek T7 system two wheels, one SG and one 260G CBN stone, plus a honing wheel and other assessories. I have an extensive collection of hand planes, and chisels and I sharpen them regularly, I also do woodturning, so I have a need to sharpen turning chisels as well.

In regard to flattening of chisels and plane irons. I don't do it that often, I generally only do it once when I acquire a new item or when they have been worn down to the extent that requires re-flattening. I aim to flatten only last 20~25 mm of the back each time. At the moment, I may have about 20 to 30 items that could do with some further flattening.

I am aware of the David Charlesworth Ruler Trick, though not a fan of it, Sometimes its the only way if the alternative is to grind away too much material.

I hope I have answered all your questions. Now here is the question from my last post - how long it would take to flatten a slightly pitted iron with pits that are in the order 0.1~0.3 mm deep with a 600 grit diamond wheel?

regards
Paul.

Thank you for your replies, and it's good to know that clogging is not a problem and that there are ways to clean the stone.
What also interests me is the suggestion of using 600 grits to flatten the back of chisels and plane irons. When I flatten a plane iron/chisel by hand, I found I spent the most time on the lower grit diamond stones and thought that it would be the same with Tormek. A 600 grit stone would be more useful in normal sharpening to me. I wonder how long it would take to flatten a slightly pitted iron with pits that are in the order 0.1~0.3 mm deep with a 600 grit diamond stone?

Hi all
I'm interested in getting the coarse diamond stone, primarily because of my interest in using the multi-base jig in flattening of the back of chisel and plane irons. I read from Amazon that sharpening high carbon tool steel can clog up the wheel. Is that true? If that the case, would grinding HSS unclog it?
Cheers and Thanks
Paul.

my old Green Supergrind needs a new shaft and guess what ? The big stone is baked - welded - rusted together with the shaft ! I took the holding nut off and the big washer - used gentle tapping on the stone - try hitting the shaft with a small 2pound hammer - soaked the threaded part with penetrating oil (have no KROIL here in Sydney) even drilled a full length hole (50mm) just on the tread line and injected with penetrating oil - THE BUGGER IS STILL STUCK !
Is it possible to pull that shaft out - with a wheel still attached
Or does anybody knows some dirty tricks about it

Have you tried the lighter and candle trick? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFdFsfSAuyc

Long time lurker but first time poster.
I have a tormek T7 and I like using it. I also bought myself the SE-77 as an add on and I enjoy using it too.
I do a lot of plane irons and chisels - I like planes and I own a lot of them and I use them extensively in my projects. I am also a woodworking teacher at a community centre where they run an introductory woodworking class. I found that all my students get hooked on planing all by themselves as soon as I give them a real sharp plane and they will be off making shavings in no time, almost mesmerized by the ease and beauty of what they are creating and the sound planing creates. With Tormek, I create a sharp edge quickly and consistently.
I can get an iron or a chisel sharp in less than 5 mins - from the time that I take the iron out of plane to the time I start planing again and I credit Tormek for most of that. While I enjoy using the SE-77, especially with the micro adjusters,I wasn't keen on using the jig the "tormek way" to get camber on my iron - to line up the centre of the iron to the centre line in the jig and tapping it here and there until you get it square in my jig. It's too time consuming when I am doing it every hour. So I've been cambering by putting more pressure on the corners of the iron as I move the iron across the surface of the SG-250 wheel.
This is until I decided to make a iron setting jig to locate the iron correctly in the jig. This jig consists of a properly jointed 43 x 19 length of timber, with a number of rebates cut to the exact sizes of the irons that I usually sharpen. One of rebates is skewed for my marking knife but the rest are square to the edge. To setup the plane iron is relatively simple, place the iron inside the correct rebated slot and then slide the SE-77 jig over the iron until it is sitting on the straight edge of my set up jig. Line up the centre line of the SE-77 with the centre line of the rebate. Slide the movable fastening knob as close as you can to the iron and tighten both knobs slowly. This whole process should only take less than a minute as long as rebate fits the irons nicely (neither too tight or too loose). The fine tuning of adjuster knobs on the SE-77 is sometimes necessary to make out any minute skew that might be there. Though the skew might not be noticeable but it will increase the amount of material to be removed and hence the time it takes. I use a permanent marker to coat the bevel and manually rotate the grindstone with the SE-77 in its proper position. The height of universal support arm is usually about right but every now and then I need to make a small adjustment there also. I adjust the knobs on the SE-77 jig so that the area with the mark gone on the bevel is right at the centre of the iron. I then back off both knobs by the same amount for cambering purposes and then switch on the machine.
It takes a couple of minutes longer (5 to 7 minutes in total) but I have more control of the camber I get from the iron.
The problem I have with this method is that I have irons with different sizes and different manufacturers of the same # irons have widths that are slightly different, or different enough to not be a nice fit in one of my rebates. I end up with a lot of rebates. I just think it must be a common problem for a lot of us and there might be a better solution than mine out there somewhere.