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We have an old super grind 2000 at a community workshop.

Sometimes you have to push the wheel to get it to start turning.

What would be the cause/how to fix?

I've received the SE-77 jig and it seems pretty well built. I am surprised that it left by edge actually square

Overall I think the tormek is a decent piece of kit for refining primary bevels but wouldn't use it to grind badly misshapened tools. The dry grinder is much faster at this but the tormek is better when you near the edge of the blade as there is no threat of over heating and it gives a much finer grind. My dry grinding wheel tends to make the edge of the blade chip and it takes several sharpening sessions to achieve full sharpness because of this.

I'd quite like to add a leather honing wheel but not sure how I could add one.

I'll post a video over the weekend for those who are interested to see how this old tool works.

I've asked support and there isn't a copy of the manual dating that far back!

With regard to the drill insert, apparently its just a 6mm diameter steel rod and I've been using something similar so far.

Still waiting for my square edge jig to arrive so will update then

I don't have the original drill shaft. Currently trying a metal rod with some rubber stuck at the end (just waiting for the glue to dry so its doesn't slip off.). With a hammer drill in normal drilling mode its seems to work pretty well and I can now longer stop the wheel using pressure.

I've ordered the SE 77 square jig, so once I have it I'll post a video of it working.

As far as I can tell, the universal support bar must have been invented between 1978 and 1984 and installed on the later st-250 models before they released the SA-250 which is motor powered.

The grinding wheel is cream coloured and doesn't have a sticker on the side so I am assuming its an original wheel. Is there anything special about it?

Is the rubber wheel supposed to be a rubber honing wheel as well as a drive wheel?

Pictures of the machine as promised

Hi all,

First timer to the Tormek forum.

I would be the original poster from the UKWorkshop forum.

I got the machine at a local auction for about £45. Looked like it might of been used once or twice so I thought it would be worth a punt.

I will get some pictures later this week or at the weekend but its a pretty solid unit.  I don't have any jigs for it but it looks like it will take the new tormek jigs as it as a long support bar rather than a short one.

I have tried a drill with a metal bar inserted and it does turn the wheel. However it does stop easily with a little pressure of a blade on the wheel. If someone is able to press the drill against the wheel there is no slippage but of course this requires another pair of hands and also will lead to the honing wheel becoming worn out.

I think the reason they chose a drill for the original tormek is that it has roughly the right amount of power (say 400-800 watts) and has a suitable rpm. This roughly equates to a 1/8 -1/4hp motor. It doesn't seem to be very easy to get a powerfulish motor with that many rpm.

Tormek do sell replacement motors but these are very expensive (something ridiculous like 199 euros) and was hoping to find an off the shelf solution (ie easy to replace if something breaks or something that can be scavenged from a low value item)

I had a look at pulleys yesterday, and for a 1400 rpm motor you would need a small pulley of 50mm and a large pulley of 250mm to get the motor down into the 200rpm range. A pulley of that size isn't really practical to attach to a tormek. I am not sure if gears could get a rpm of that motor down enough though.

Although more rpm is better, there will be a speed of which water just gets flicked everywhere. I read a review of a Jet tormek copy and the reviewer stated at 150rpm it started to get messy!

Anyway I will get some pictures and then hopefully some clever clogs will be able to figure it out!!!