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Yes I'm aware of that. I already have the software for the FVB and the angle setter. Just worries that I might pick up problems if it asks for a code again

The other question would also be. Every now and then after a phone update or even software update i had to get a pin code from wootz.  Would the software still be supported or what is the plans going forward? I would want to see spending the amount of money on software etc only to be told it will be discontinued?

Where can one get more info regarding the Kenjig or how it works (set up, working etc?)

I Received my FVB Yesterday after waiting in pure anticipation for what seemed like a month but was actually a week. The postal system sent it back and forth and after tracking it through numerous phone calls I drove 60kilometers to go and collect it in a whole different town......

But never the less I got it, and after using some very good advice from Wootz via mails I have at last with the help of Tormek Diamond wheels and the FVB achieved the next level in sharpness compared to what I was used to. Still have a long way to go to get extra felt wheels and various compound but from what I have I have at least achieved hair splitting sharpness!!!


Thank you so much Wootz for all the effort in getting the FVB to me as well as the advice. So much appreciated!

Hi All.

I Have a Spyderco PM2 knive that I would like to sharpen properly.

The challenge I face is that the blade tapers from tang to tip as well as from spine to edge.

How would you go about clamping this blade? does the spring force in the clamp compensate for this uneven symmetry or what would you suggest?

Has someone done a blade like this before that can give some suggestions?

That's true yes and I've been using the SJ 250 for n few years with acceptable results but I want to get to the next step of sharpening. Like they say sharp enough is not sharp enough. I want to get to the ultimate in sharpening and I wont get there with the SJ 250 alone and no perfect honing angles on the leather wheel as well as without some half speed grinders and paper wheels with diamond pastes

Do you also stay in south africa? And yes you can get acceptable results with the DJ 250 but following the recommendations especially with honing if you don't get the fab and the software to get the exact angle then I believe you are wasting your time as you will not be able to accurately set the honing angle as per recomendations

He had the option on his site to just buy the fvb buddi dont have xb 100 spare like you and here in south Africa i cant even buy spares for my tormek nevermind essentials like the xb 100. I bought the diamond wheels and i cant even get acc solution for them here so i am screwed in some sense. I will wait till they get stock and see if i can get it here in some way

I Have bought the PDF version of WOOTZ on knife grinders and have read it through probably twice from cover to cover which gave me whole new understanding of sharpening with the tormek that got me all fired up, but now the dilemma.

From what can be understood you wont be able to probably remove the burr at the root and have a clean apex if you don't have the frontal mount with the XB 100 to control the angle at which you de burr edge trailing. On the site it says that they are waiting from spares for tormek and they don't have stock.

So my question is do I even attempt to use the SJ 250 and still hone edge leading to be able to get it to true razor edge I crave or do I wait for the spares to come in and order it and wait 4 weeks for it to go through customs and get lost through the mail and found and and and?

Thanks for the informative reply and suggestions as usual ken

Thank you so much for the help Ken and yes john I was also thinking of decanting for re use but then also comes the question how long can one re use before the efficacy of the anti corrosion liquid is obsolete and one needs new water and liquid.....
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Hi There.

Just a quick question that i haven't seen asked anywhere,

When using the coarse or fine diamond wheels and then moving to the SJ 250 Japanese water stone, do i need to empty the water tray?

Would the anti Corrosive concentrate adversely affect the SJ 250 or the SG 250 that i already have if i use the same water or must i empty the tray and use clean water for the normal stones?

Pls can you give me the link for the book as I have had a look but cant seem to find it on your site

Hi All.

I tried the suggestions about using some sand paper on the wheel first some fine and then a bit coarser and although it made a bit of a difference it did not solve the problem.

I Then tried the suggestion by Nicolò to remove the rubber part of the wheel. I removed it and cleaned it with some alcohol on the inside as well as on the plastic part where the wheel contacts.

Applied some contact glue and re applied the rubber wheel and PRESTO! Its whisper quiet again!!! Thank you all for the insights. Definitely something to remember.

Hi Ken.
No I Just cleaned the wheel by wiping the rubber contact area with a cloth and making sure there is no dust and water on the rubber and that it is clean. I Rea grease the shaft and bushings almost monthly as im very anal about my machine and keep it clean and in pristine condition.

What grit sandpaper would you suggest I use as I don't want to ruin the drive as I see on all the dealer sites that sell tormek here, no one sell the drive gear or reduction drive rubber wheel as they call it as a spare part.

Also im 100% sure that it is not a bush or anything because when I remove the leather wheel attachment I can hear it come from the rubber part where the motor shaft contacts the wheel.