Messages

Jake,

I re-designed the jig I make to be mostly 3D printed.  (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-RotaryKnife.html)

It is currently setup for 60mm blades which have a 10mm bore, but I think it could be easily modified for 28 mm blades.  What is the bore size for those blades?

I received Dr. Thomas' book, and read the parts relevant to me.  It is really good, and worth having in your sharpening library.

This guy's web site is really interesting.

https://knifesteelnerds.com

I've ordered his book, but haven't read it yet. 

I've heard this request a few times now, so I've added pictures.

About the adjusting stone, what difference is that from a regular dual grit wetstone?

The SG grindstone can be graded with the two-sided stone grader to either a coarse or find grit. That grindstone alone is sufficient, especially for a beginner. I wouldn't invest in the SJ grindstone unless for some reason I found the SG unsatisfactory.

I sharpen all kinds of hand tools, mower blades, and kitchen knives. Been doing it for 23 years and have never had the need for anything other than the SG grindstone.

In my opinion it just doesn't pay to get a tool or a knife any sharper than what I get with the combination of the SG and the leather honing wheel. Not for my needs, anyway.

I love your by-line:

"Knowledge isn't free, you have to pay attention." R.P. Feynman

It could be that the alignment screws on the SE-77 are not set to provide you a square edge.  That is why I designed the SE-77 Alignment Jig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-SE-77-Alignment.html).  You can 3D print it and use it to ensure the SE-77 is aligned perfectly.

I've been thinking about this quite a bit since Yukon Jake posted the question 3 days ago.  

The rotary knife jig I designed (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-RotaryKnife.html) was a modification of the SVD-18x jig, providing a handle to make it easier to rotate the blade for a consistent sharpening process.  It works; however I can no longer get the parts to make it as a stand-alone product.  It could possibly be re-designed so that it could be 3D printed with a few off-the-shelf parts, and that is what I've been mulling.

In contrast, the Tormek RBS-140 Round Blade Sharpening Attachment (https://tormek.com/en/products/culinary/culinary-accessories/rbs-140-round-blade-sharpening-attachment) uses a different approach (the video on the linked site shows it well).  I really like that approach; however it is noted on that page that this attachment only works on the T-2.  I don't know if anyone has tried it on the other Tormek grinders (e.g., the T-4 or T-8).  It looks like two of the parts are from the SVD-186-R, so I suspect it would work on the T-4 at least.

I think something with the same approach as the RBS-140 could also be designed for 3D printing.  But I wonder if it would be safe enough for heavy use.  

Thoughts from the community?

The T-1 is my recommendation.  My sister moved away and needed such a solution. She now has a T-1 and loves it.

I used to sharpen my sister's knives when she lived in the same area. Alas, she recently moved far away and has not had sharpened knives since. She asked me about the equipment I use for sharpening knives, looking to get the same for herself. I didn't want to recommend the T-8 with the jigs as she just wants to sharpen her kitchen knives. Instead, I recommended she get the T-1.

She ordered one and received it late last week. I asked her what she thought about it: She replied, "Very easy to use!"

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Ken,

The usability features noted in the video seem great.  I already have the SVX-150 jig (which works well enough), but those features persuaded me and I ordered the new jig yesterday.

I haven't considered the platform yet ....

Rich

It will ALWAYS be too tempting...

No additional platform is need.

I am very welcome to updating the photos.  You can send them to me at SharpeningHandbook@gmail.com.

Ryan,

I put together this summary about just such questions. 
https://sharpeninghandbook.info/PurchasedAnOldTormek.html

Rich

I've followed how some people are getting skewed ends on their chisels when using the SE-77 to sharpen them.  Having watched these conversations and the back-and-forth about ensuring the chisel was properly held in the SE-77, I am now of the opinion that the problem is with the alignment screws on the SE-77. And I further believe that it is due to the way the witness marks work.

The alignment screws are shown in the picture below with red caps, and the witness marks are denoted with a red circle around them.

To replace the use of the witness marks, I've designed a 3D-printed jig which is used in conjunction with the SE-77 to align the SE-77.  The picture below shows that alignment jig (the blue part) attached to the USB with the SE-77.

The yellow blade represents a chisel to be sharpened.  The way to use it is to:

• Attach the chisel to the SE-77, ensuring the side is tight against the shoulder (see also, the SE-77 manual, pg. 122).
• Put the SE-77 and the alignment jig on the USB.
• When looking down, the alignment of the chisel to the scale on the jig should look like the picture in the middle below.  If it is like the one on the left or right, then adjust the alignment of the two alignment screws (shown with red tops). 
• Tighten the alignment screws down, and you should be set until the jig gets bumped or you change the alignment.

If you want to 3D print your own SE-77 alignment jig, it is available for free at the Sharpening Handbook.  The link is:  https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-SE-77-Alignment.html.  There is also a link there to a video I made showing how to use it.