Messages

Woodpeckers came out with a new router plane which has a really innovative design for the cutting blade.  

https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-router-plane.html

I have an idea about how the blade could be held in a 3d-printed holder which could then be held in the SE-77.  If you have one of these, please contact me:  I'd like to work with you on this idea. 

I purchased the SC-60 when it was announced, but only recently got to use it.  I found it quite good.  If you don't have a scissors jig, this one is recommended.

Like you, I believe the older SVX-150 is still quite usable (I will not be getting rid of mine).

Hugo,

I thought the video was great, and forwarded it to my sister to highlight why I recommended the Tormek T-1 for her home use.

I'm looking forward to seeing more.

Rich

My RB-180 is a bit rough to rotate. I tried cleaning it, but that was only a marginal improvement.  I think it needs to be lubricated.  My first guess would be to use white lithium grease, but am wondering what others may be using? 

The MB-102 multibase is excellent for addressing the resharpening of short chisels as you can use the side of the grindstone.

Nick,

I've not played with the inserts, though I've looked into them.  So far, I've found that the threads in the PLA are sufficient as the load is not high; or at least that is what I've experienced so far.

Thank you for the recommendation though.  And if would modify the design (the f3d file) to use such inserts, please do send it to me and I will add that to the documentation (and of course crediting you for the work).

Rich

I've developed a laser goniometer which can be 3D printed.  It is available at https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-LaserGoniometer.html.

Werner,

I worked with a number of people on this forum to design a jig for this which can be 3D printed.  Information about it is at: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-ProjectionTTS-100.html.

Kind regards,
Rich

Rami,

Congratulations on your upgrade!  Did you keep the T-3 also?

When reshaping a tool, it really depends on the metals

• If it is HSS, I will often use a bench grinder and the Tormek BGM-100, but
• It it is high carbon steel (such as many of the tools I inherited or bought second-hand), I find the SG-250 works quite well.

When sharpening the tool, again, it depends on the metal:

• For HSS, I like to use the DF-250 as it's consistent diameter makes a lot of things easier, and
• For high carbon steel, I will usually use the SG-250. If it needs a very smooth surface, I will then follow the SG-250 with the SJ-250.

For honing turning tools, I find the Tormek CW composite wheel works well.

I hope that helps.

Kind regards,
Rich

That is great!  Thank you for sharing.

[Bad news:]

David,

Bad news:  you need to add the stone grader (SP-650), and also the stone truing tool (TT-50).

Good news:  you will probably never need to replace these two.  My stone grader is 20+ years old and still working strongly.  I upgraded to the TT-50 truing tool, but re-used the diamond tip which came with my machine in 2003.

I know that this all adds up to a lot of money; however, I would challenge you to find another machine that is this well made at a better cost.  One similar type of machine was made by Accu-Finish (though it no longer is).  You were lucky to be able to get one 5 years ago for less than $3,000.  And it too required a lot of add-on pieces, so $4,000 - $5,000 was not an unusual investment.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had a low-end metal lathe which seemed like a good deal at the time.  I learned a lot about how it worked as it was often broken down.  I now have a nice Jet lathe for metal.

When I purchased my Tormek SuperGrind 2000 in 2002, it cost $549.  Certainly, I've had to replace worn grinding wheels over the years just like one must replace brake pads or tires.  But I've only had to replace two parts on that machine, adding another $139 to the cost.  (I wish my pickup truck were so reliable.)
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finally, I think it is also key for all of us to remember how Tormek supports what they make.  There have been some nice improvements made over the years (from my SuperGrind 2000 to my T-8), but all the jigs and parts work on both machines equally well.  I don't know any other companies which provide such backwards compatibility.


Please don't give up hope on your Tormek.  It will serve you well for a long time.

I was more asking how you restored the sides of the knife (i.e., did you use electrolysis or naval jelly)?

What process did you use to restore the blade?

Eric,

I have the predecessor products (the SVM-100 and SVM-140).  Both of them are the same way.  

When I use them, the ends "flex" out so that there is a consistent edge against the blade.

Rich

I prefer to use red Sharpies.  I find that the red stands out better.