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Bruce, what did you end up doing?

What about using the MB-102 Multi-Base with the KJ-45?  Then, as noted by Rick, the side of the grinding wheel can be used.

You should try:  The SVD-110 Tool Rest would probably work well.  If not, a platform jig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-Platform.html) may be useful.

[Primary facets]

Dan Heil developed a set of templates which make setting up the DBS-22 a lot easier when addressing the secondary grind.  And, he added the capability for a tertiary grind as well.

There are separate templates for each clearance angle.  Below are pictures of the one for 9° in use.

Primary facets


Secondary facets


Tertiary facets


These are based on these calculations:

• secondary facet angle = primary facet angle + 13°, and
• tertiary facet angle = secondary facet angle + 32°.

The great value to this approach is the ease in setting the secondary (and tertiary) facets in a very repeatable manner. Additionally, it is easier and faster to use this method than the approach outlined in the DBS-22 user manual (pg. 11).This really comes into play when resharpening a number of drills at one time.


The files to 3D print these are at 

• https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-DBS22-Setting-Templates.html, or 
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7365248.

When I hear concerns about using the KS-123 due to it being less than needed accuracy, I wonder why the angle on the blade must be accurate to 0.1°.  In the sharpening I do for most things, if the angle is good to +/- 1 degree I am good.  What am I missing?

The SE-77 may also be misaligned.  That is what prompted me to develop an alignment jig for it https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-SE-77-Alignment.html.  You can easily 3d print one for yourself. 

No, but you will certainly spill water, & get dripping off the tools you are sharpening. 

[What are typical grinding lubricants?]

I remember using oils for keeping cutting tools cool and working efficiently (e.g., on drills, milling machines, and metal lathes).  I could not remember using oils for this purpose, so I asked Claude.ai.  Whilst AIs are not always right, Claude does seem quite good.  

Question:  What are typical grinding lubricants?

There was a long iteration of options provided, based on, 

• Material being ground (steel, carbide, ceramic, aluminum)
• Wheel type (CBN, diamond, aluminum oxide)
• Precision requirements
• Environmental/health regulations

But it was summarized as:

For most general-purpose surface or cylindrical grinding, water-soluble synthetic or semi-synthetic fluids are the go-to choice due to their cooling efficiency and cleanliness.

I followed this up with the question:
What is most commonly used for aluminum oxide grinding wheels?

For aluminum oxide grinding wheels specifically, the choice depends on the application, but here's the breakdown:

Most Common: Water-Based Synthetics & Semi-Synthetics
These are the dominant choice for aluminum oxide wheels because:

• Aluminum oxide generates significant heat — water-based fluids excel at cooling
• They keep the wheel from "loading up" (pores clogging with swarf)
• Good for ferrous metals, which are the typical workpiece material paired with Al₂O₃ wheels
• Easy to maintain and cost-effective

By Application
General surface/cylindrical grinding (most common use case)

• Synthetic or semi-synthetic water-based fluids are standard
• Concentration typically 3–8% in water

Precision grinding (tool & cutter, OD grinding)

• Semi-synthetic fluids for the balance of cooling + lubrication
• Sometimes light sulfurized mineral oil for very fine finishes on steel

Heavy stock removal

• Soluble oil emulsions — the oil content helps with lubrication under higher loads

Light/bench grinding

• Often run dry, or with a wax stick touched to the wheel periodically

What to Avoid with Al₂O₃ Wheels

• Straight heavy oils — poor cooling, can cause thermal cracking in the wheel bond
• Alkaline fluids with high pH — can degrade certain wheel bonds over time

So, I think we are good with water.

[Primary Facets]

Dan Heil contacted me by eMail and noted,

You can grind a SPA by setting the (DBS-22 clearance angle) to 90 degrees.

I tried it and that indeed worked ... exceptionally well!  Here is the resulting grind on a ½" drill bit.

This is a really big find by Dan as SPAs are really good on larger drill bits, and as noted on GadgetBuilder,

Secondary Point Angles ... extend drill life, improve hole finish and minimize the exit burr on through-drilled holes.

You can also see that the secondary facets are quite a bit rougher than the primary facets. This is due to using a different grinding wheel, making this a faster process

Primary Facets	Started with DC-250 diamond course grinding wheel (drill was in bad shape) Finished with DF-250 diamond fine grinding wheel
Secondary Facets	Used DC-250 diamond course grinding wheel
SPAs	Used DF-250 diamond fine grinding wheel

Ken once told me that grindstones are like brake shoes:  both are meant to be worn down through use.

I have the MB-100 which is quite similar to the MB-102.  That said, I have no issues as you've noted.  But, I also do not use it often.

I've been turning for ~30 years and have never encountered a 35° bevel. 40° is the smallest I've ever seen. 

None-the-less, the settings for the SVD-186 are shown (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-BowlGouge.html).  Based on 40° needing a projection of 75mm, and 45° needing 65mm, you would probably need the projection to be 85mm. 

But, the sharpie method will have to be used to figure this out.  

An article by Larrin, "How Chipping of Edges Happens at a Microscopic Level" (on Knife Steel Nerds), debunks the idea of coarse edges due to the increased propensity for chipping and faster dulling of the blade. As noted by Dr. Vadim Kraichuk, "Meat plants are well aware that knives with coarse edges worsen product presentation and increase operators' fatigue and repetitive strain injuries. On the contrary, polished edges improve product quality through higher value cuts and increase throughput."

It is a common, but quite bad, practice of drawing the newly sharpened knife edge through a piece of wood or some other media to "rip off" the remnants of the burr. When this is done, the ripped off metal builds up on the front of the slice, and you then drag the rest of the edge through this crud. This crud, together with breaking off of ledges of material along the edge, will roughen the edge and worsen sharpness.

The scanning electron microscope (SEM) images to the pictures lined show the burr on a knife in the 1st image, that was then "ripped off" by cutting cross-grain into a piece of redwood in the 2nd image - loss of the sharp edge is obvious.

https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-Knives-Ripped-Burr.html

Key take-away from these photos : don't skip the honing step.

Dr. Larrin Thomas' book, Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and Geometry (2025), discusses burr removal quite well.

This is really good.

I bought the SVD-110 Tool Rest and have been using it with the DF 250 to sharpen mower blades and its quick and really precise, no truing and I use the marker method (most blades are coming up between 35° - 40°. 

If the blade is uneven, I use the KJ45 with no problem.

I would love to see a video or pics of this.  It sounds like a great approach.