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I found that with a dissecting microscope I can see the size and shape of the burr. Years ago I used this method to refine my knife-sharpening skills. I was able to check whether or not a burr went along the full length of the blade. I can see the size and shape of the burr and as others have mentioned it does indeed depend on the type of steel and the grinding direction, but it doesn't matter.

Nowadays I keep a piece of an old bath towel handy and run the surface of the blade across the towel. Moving the knife away from me with the cutting edge facing towards me. The burr will catch fine threads of the towel and with good light and a magnifier I can easily see them, telling me if there's a burr all along the edge. Then of course I sharpen the other side of the edge and do the same. Now I know the knife is sharp and needs only to have the burr removed.

The knife is usually either a kitchen knife or a pocket knife and is now sharp enough for everything that do with it. I know that other techniques can get an edge sharper than that, but I'm of the opinion that that effort is just for show because as soon as the knife is used it will not be any sharper than it is with my technique. I don't have expensive knives and I've never used anything other than the SG grindstone and the honing wheel with the Tormek honing compound.

I use the same technique to sharpen tools, and modify it slightly for a lawn mower blade.

Herman,

That's an interesting idea.  What magnification are you using?

Rich

Thank you Gerd.  I appreciate your kind words.

John,

I've cataloged all that, and more at:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info.

Rich

I saw that Tormek now has a new knife sharpening kit, the KSK-106 (https://tormek.com/en/products/kits/ksk-106-knife-sharpening-kit).  

Of interest to me is the new CU-8 Edge Loupe.  That part is not listed in the Tormek catalogue, but I am betting it is the same as the magnifying glass in the DBS-22 Drill Bit Sharpening Attachment.  Any thoughts from anyone else?

I agree about using the micro bevel.  It is a better practice anyway as it will use up less of your SJ grindstone.

Here's what I've compiled about micro bevels https://sharpeninghandbook.info/MicroBevels.html.

How do you envision these being used?

I use a machinist's hand file.  It works fine. 

I plotted the speed of the grinding surface vs. the diameter of the grinding wheel (for the T-8).  As shown in the chart, at 220mm, the speed is 88%, and at 180mm, it is 72%.

Ken,

That is an interesting point that I've not considered.  Thank you.

Rich

Dave,

Here is more details:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-SpindleGouge.html

Rich 

There are ways to extend the useful life of a grindstone.  I've catalogued some here:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Grindstones-StoneLife.html. 

1. FVB vs. MB 102
2. Leather wheel (2 pcs) vs. Felt wheel (2 pcs) (and I have WSKO ELIT )
3. SVM 45 vs. KJ 45 (by SVM 45 I mean custom)
4. KS 123 vs. app

Andy,

1. MB-102
2. Leather honing wheels with PA-70
3. KJ-45
4. KS-123

Rich

@Rossy66, I recommend you look for older tools at yard sales or at places like Goodwill.  What you will probably find are high carbon tools like those made by Craftsman and Buck.  Those will sharpen quicker than HSS; however you will be able to get the approach down.

By the way, these tools are very good once sharpened.  They will need to be resharpened more often than HSS; however you can look at that as a benefit as it will help you develop your process.

Wow.  Someone should sharpen that boy's knives to show him what sharp truly is.

Use JS 6, 75 mm, hole A.  

https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-BowlGouge.html