Messages

Miloslav,

I encourage you to read this series of posts on this topic. https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5220.msg37870.html

My Two Cherries chisels hold edges quite well. 

Randy,

The late Dr. Vadim Kraichuk wrote an excellent book about deburring knives and made a shortened version of it free for distribution.  Whilst it is about knives, I believe many of the principles will apply to what you are finding.

To get to the book, this link will get you there: https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Documents/Knife_Deburring_book.pdf.

You can get the full-length version from Amazon.

Kind regards,
Rich

That looks like a masonry bit.  Not much guidance on these. 

What are you trying to achieve with a diamond wheel that you cannot achieve with the SG grindstone?

I use both.   I use the composite honing wheel for wood turning tools; otherwise I use the leather honing wheel.  The leather is messier, but I believe it gives a finer hone.

Tormek have designed a product which is simple in design, but ever so useful for so many activities. I really like that Tormek provided the 3D CAD file to enable us to print them at home. 

Just 3D printed two sets.  Nice!

Hugh, as you've doing many chisels, may I recommend a different method.

As I am a woodturner, I am quite familiar with using the TTS-100 to set the distance for the USB from the grinding wheel and the tool's projection from the SVD-186.

I wanted a way to do quick-and-easy resharpening of my chisels that worked along the same approach as resharpening turning tools.  With the help of Jan H, I developed a 3D printed part which is used to set the projection of the chisel from the SE-77.

More details are at https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-ProjectionTTS-100.html.

Ed,

I don't think it's an easy answer to give. I find that I can resharpen a LOT of tools before I need to re-true the stone.  As for re-grading, that's more driven by the need for making the stone go back from 1000 grit to 200 grit.  For many blades, I don't have to do that. 

Rich

Rick,

I left mine hexagonal. It seemed to work well, but I've not sharpened a lot of small bits. 

Rick,

I agree wholeheartedly.  

Rick,

I used your earlier idea, but with this pin vise:

https://www.starrett.com/details?cat-no=166C

I found that the original one worked acceptably.  It seemed so simple yet worked. 

I have the new one and like it a lot more, but I've not used it extensively. 

I watched the class in re-run, and it is really good.  One thing which I believe Wolfgang missed about the Japanese water stone is its value for re-sharpening knives with thin blades.  

I carried a Swiss Army Tinker pocket knife for years, and I too ate up the blades too fast when resharpening them.

Now, when I resharpen the Swiss Army knife, I find that the SJ water stone is quite sufficient to achieve the needed work, and it greatly minimizes the metal removal, extending the life of the knife.