Messages

Paul's drip tray is excellent.  

As for hanging the grindstones, I'm not keen on that for the traditional style ones (SG, SB, & SJ).  I designed these to store them standing up (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-GrindstoneStand.html), and they work well..

Gerd,

Thank you!

Rich

MBS,

I am a woodturner with this setup:

* https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Images/ForumPics/TormekStationFront.jpeg
* https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Images/ForumPics/TormekStationSide.jpeg

(I can't imbed the pictures for some reason, but the links work.)

The toolbox on which my Tormek T-8 sits is 32" tall.  I am 5'-7" tall; you may need to adjust the height of the stand to match your height.

I have found that I grind my turning tools with the grinding wheel rotating towards me (as shown in these pictures).  Thusly, I am looking down at tools which are often held in a more vertical position.  This height works well for that.

Also, having this on a toolbox makes for storing the jigs easy, and keeps them right-at-hand for quick use.


As you are getting started using the Tormek for sharpening wood turning tools, I recommend you take a look at the Time Saving Tips I've cataloged at https://sharpeninghandbook.info/TimeSavingTipsForTheTormek.html.  These really make it easy to quickly re-sharpen your tools and get back to woodturning.

Rich

My experience has been that:

• The paper wheels make a very shiny edge, but
• The Tormek leather stropping wheel provides a sharper and longer lasting edge. 

I've not seen any analysis on this, so I am wondering what others are finding.

I've created some 3D-printable grindstone stands to allow them to be easily stored vertically.  The designs are available at the Sharpening Handbook (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-GrindstoneStand.html).

My gut feeling is that this is a better way to store the grindstones than by hanging them by their arbor on a peg (I just feel that aligning the grindstone's opening with the peg will wear on the opening).

I was recently using my SuperGrind 2003 which has been upgraded to use the stainless steel shaft with an EzyLock nut. The nut was well locked in place, holding the SG-250 quite tightly, and it took extra tools to remove the nut. 

As I dove into the screw threads to figure out how the nut got stuck, I found it was rather full of some gunk. It was easy enough to clean up, but it does bring me to a thought about a best practice. 

I already lower the water trough, but going forward I will also be sure the nut is removed or at least loosened.

Bruce, what did you end up doing?

What about using the MB-102 Multi-Base with the KJ-45?  Then, as noted by Rick, the side of the grinding wheel can be used.

You should try:  The SVD-110 Tool Rest would probably work well.  If not, a platform jig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-Platform.html) may be useful.

[Primary facets]

Dan Heil developed a set of templates which make setting up the DBS-22 a lot easier when addressing the secondary grind.  And, he added the capability for a tertiary grind as well.

There are separate templates for each clearance angle.  Below are pictures of the one for 9° in use.

Primary facets


Secondary facets


Tertiary facets


These are based on these calculations:

• secondary facet angle = primary facet angle + 13°, and
• tertiary facet angle = secondary facet angle + 32°.

The great value to this approach is the ease in setting the secondary (and tertiary) facets in a very repeatable manner. Additionally, it is easier and faster to use this method than the approach outlined in the DBS-22 user manual (pg. 11).This really comes into play when resharpening a number of drills at one time.


The files to 3D print these are at 

• https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-DBS22-Setting-Templates.html, or 
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7365248.

When I hear concerns about using the KS-123 due to it being less than needed accuracy, I wonder why the angle on the blade must be accurate to 0.1°.  In the sharpening I do for most things, if the angle is good to +/- 1 degree I am good.  What am I missing?

The SE-77 may also be misaligned.  That is what prompted me to develop an alignment jig for it https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-SE-77-Alignment.html.  You can easily 3d print one for yourself. 

No, but you will certainly spill water, & get dripping off the tools you are sharpening. 

[What are typical grinding lubricants?]

I remember using oils for keeping cutting tools cool and working efficiently (e.g., on drills, milling machines, and metal lathes).  I could not remember using oils for this purpose, so I asked Claude.ai.  Whilst AIs are not always right, Claude does seem quite good.  

Question:  What are typical grinding lubricants?

There was a long iteration of options provided, based on, 

• Material being ground (steel, carbide, ceramic, aluminum)
• Wheel type (CBN, diamond, aluminum oxide)
• Precision requirements
• Environmental/health regulations

But it was summarized as:

For most general-purpose surface or cylindrical grinding, water-soluble synthetic or semi-synthetic fluids are the go-to choice due to their cooling efficiency and cleanliness.

I followed this up with the question:
What is most commonly used for aluminum oxide grinding wheels?

For aluminum oxide grinding wheels specifically, the choice depends on the application, but here's the breakdown:

Most Common: Water-Based Synthetics & Semi-Synthetics
These are the dominant choice for aluminum oxide wheels because:

• Aluminum oxide generates significant heat — water-based fluids excel at cooling
• They keep the wheel from "loading up" (pores clogging with swarf)
• Good for ferrous metals, which are the typical workpiece material paired with Al₂O₃ wheels
• Easy to maintain and cost-effective

By Application
General surface/cylindrical grinding (most common use case)

• Synthetic or semi-synthetic water-based fluids are standard
• Concentration typically 3–8% in water

Precision grinding (tool & cutter, OD grinding)

• Semi-synthetic fluids for the balance of cooling + lubrication
• Sometimes light sulfurized mineral oil for very fine finishes on steel

Heavy stock removal

• Soluble oil emulsions — the oil content helps with lubrication under higher loads

Light/bench grinding

• Often run dry, or with a wax stick touched to the wheel periodically

What to Avoid with Al₂O₃ Wheels

• Straight heavy oils — poor cooling, can cause thermal cracking in the wheel bond
• Alkaline fluids with high pH — can degrade certain wheel bonds over time

So, I think we are good with water.

[Primary Facets]

Dan Heil contacted me by eMail and noted,

You can grind a SPA by setting the (DBS-22 clearance angle) to 90 degrees.

I tried it and that indeed worked ... exceptionally well!  Here is the resulting grind on a ½" drill bit.

This is a really big find by Dan as SPAs are really good on larger drill bits, and as noted on GadgetBuilder,

Secondary Point Angles ... extend drill life, improve hole finish and minimize the exit burr on through-drilled holes.

You can also see that the secondary facets are quite a bit rougher than the primary facets. This is due to using a different grinding wheel, making this a faster process

Primary Facets	Started with DC-250 diamond course grinding wheel (drill was in bad shape) Finished with DF-250 diamond fine grinding wheel
Secondary Facets	Used DC-250 diamond course grinding wheel
SPAs	Used DF-250 diamond fine grinding wheel