Messages

John,

I can't find that on the Tormek site.  Where did you see this?

Rich

If you want to do high speed honing, use paper wheels.  But, I've found that the leather wheel at Tormek speed works better for me. 

It is for sharpening scraper blades for woodturning. 

Enrico, if you are referring to the SE-77, this jig can help https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-SE-77-Alignment.html. 

Yes, time has a tendency of passing quickly. It's quite easy for me to walk away from a sharpening session and leave the machine unattended for weeks or even months. I've learned my lesson. Remove the water trough, empty and thoroughly rinse, and remove the grindstone immediately after every session.

I do the same as Heman.

Steven,

Herman is exactly right.

By the way, I've catalogued the recommended upgrades to the SuperGrind 2000, including what I've upgraded on my own machine at:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/PurchasedAnOldTormek.html

Kind regards,
Rich

Dedicate an SVD-110 for Scrapers
https://sharpeninghandbook.info/TimeSavingTipsForTheTormek.html#DedicatedScrapers

[MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft with EzyLock is a nice upgrade for that machine.]

The MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft with EzyLock is a nice upgrade for that machine.

You should be able to hold the honing wheel

I agree with John & Rick.

I recommend you take each chisel from start to finish, then begin again on the next chisel.  You will experience less frustration with re-attaching the jig to the chisel.  

Tony,

At the Sharpening Handbook, I've cataloged 4 really good videos for using the DBS-22 to sharpen twist drills: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-DrillBits-Twist.html.

Rich

Rick, it's a nice idea. My first thought was "let's print it with a Igus filament", although buying a roll just for one washer may slightly impair the financial equation

Quick question : Aren't your concerned with the plastic washer wearing down with time ?

When I looked at the stainless steel washer on the machine, it did not show significant wear.  So that is good. 

Regardless, I am not concerned as I can print another in less than an hour.  

I am not familiar with Igus filament, so I cannot comment on that.  I used ABS to print the ones I am using, but PETG may be a better choice if you are concerned about it wearing down too soon.

Of course, you could take your current one to a machinist friend and get it modified. 

I designed and printed a part using ABS.  It seems to work quite well, though it may also be due to the bore for the 3D-printed part being a little tight on the spindle shaft.

The original one is depicted to the left, and the 3D-printed on on the right.

If you want to print one for yourself, it is available on the Sharpening Handbook:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-GrindstoneWasher.html.

[I experienced a consistent difference of 1 degree that the KS-123 is below the reading of my laser instrument]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum. I have been using T8 since 2020 with standard, CBN and diamond wheels, mostly on 8" kitchen knives and a little less on my folder collection. I was so happy when KS-123 came out because of the time economy compared to the Edding/sharpie method. I check my angles before and after sharpening with a laser goniometer. I experienced a consistent difference of 1 degree that the KS-123 is below the reading of my laser instrument. Can anybody in this forum confirm that difference by his own experience?

When I use the KS-123 and compare the ground edge to my laser goniometer, I do not see such a discrepancy.