I appreciate all the responses. I'm think I'm making this more complex than it needs to be so. After trying a few different setups today, I'm setting on a workflow that will likely replace my waterstones while in the shop for sharpening.
Using the TTS-100 for both the SG-200 and honing wheel eliminates any guesswork in setting the USB distance. I've rounded out my collection of projection jigs to get a repeatable projection for the SE-77 at 20, 25, 30, and 35 degrees. Setup is quicker than using my Veritas jig and stones.
One area that I'm experimenting with is grinding a few of my chisels at 25 degrees with the stone set to coarse and a small secondary bevel at 30 with the stone set at fine. My thought is that when it comes time to touch up, a few seconds at the fine stone setting with a quick touchup with the leather wheel and I'm back to work. After 5 -7 times, I'll have to regrind the primary bevel. I can also quick change the edge for different woods (softwoods vs hardwoods) and tasks if need be, as opposed to regrinding the entire bevel if I want to setup a chisel for a chopping session.
Using the TTS-100 for both the SG-200 and honing wheel eliminates any guesswork in setting the USB distance. I've rounded out my collection of projection jigs to get a repeatable projection for the SE-77 at 20, 25, 30, and 35 degrees. Setup is quicker than using my Veritas jig and stones.
One area that I'm experimenting with is grinding a few of my chisels at 25 degrees with the stone set to coarse and a small secondary bevel at 30 with the stone set at fine. My thought is that when it comes time to touch up, a few seconds at the fine stone setting with a quick touchup with the leather wheel and I'm back to work. After 5 -7 times, I'll have to regrind the primary bevel. I can also quick change the edge for different woods (softwoods vs hardwoods) and tasks if need be, as opposed to regrinding the entire bevel if I want to setup a chisel for a chopping session.