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Is it possible to use the TT-50 (Turning and dressing tool) on the SJ-250 (Japanese stone)?
I think that the edge of the stone is getting a small radius, and need to be flattened.

Im not a big fan of serrated knife blades, atleast not on my camping knifes.
So i tried making a new bevel and Im very pleased with the result. It looks a little weird at the bottom of the blade, closest to the handle. But i dont know how to make it look better, since the blade is smaller.
Before and after pics.

I just put my thumb on it, and the problem was gone. For me it was not that hard to adjust the technique since i was new to the machine.

I actually do use it but not for fine adjustments. With a small blade, it can be a good idea to unscrew it max, to get some distance to  the stone.

So i just finished my first titanium blade knife, and it took me about 45min+ It was a high quality, expensive kitchen knife

My own experience (trail and error) is that i could only use a very high angle. When i tried on lower angles the edge showed small, small marks in it. Looked like small cracks, even with the SJ-250 stone

I would guess, 35°+ each side.

I remade the bevel on the knife 3 times, before i could get a clean, nice edge.

The "customer" was so happy with the knife, they had tried to get it sharp many times but failed so it was well worth the time

What are your thoughts and recommendations for titanium blade knifes? It sure was not easy to get a nice edge....

If i should make a guess i think the handle is made with as little holes in the base as possible.
There is alot of water running over the machine and i would say its good that it is only bolted on one side, makes it easier to wipe off.

Thanks for your help, and thanks Stig for taking your time to explain.

Perhaps it was my English that got everything confused.

That is correct grepper, i grinded the fillet knife to 20° on each side, but when measuring on the blade instead of on the bevel i set the VM-200 to 10°.
Even if i don't explain it correct, I now understand how it wors

So i have used my machine many times now, and here are some new questions

When you want to grind a kitchen knife to for example 30°, that means 30° on each side of the blade correct?
And when i want to set the angle to 30° and measure on the knife and not the blade, the angle should be 15° is that correct?

This is how understand it, and i have read it over and over again and it is really not that hard to understand the geometry.
But, i don't get the results that i want. If i know the knife angle and set up my jig i can clearly see that it is not grinding where it should.

I also grinded a filé knife, and what i can read the angle should be around 20°, that means that if i measure on the blade and not the edge it should be 10°.
But the knife really looked weird with a huge knife edge.

-Johan

RE: "I know I have seen some video where they explained that if the knife blade is very thin, you could measure the angel to the knife jig. But i cant find it, was it -10° on the angel or something like that?"

Lack of coffee I suspect, but I'm not sure what you are asking.  Could you please clarify what the problem is?

RE: "Also, is it the same for both knife jigs?"

Do you mean the standard knife jig vs the long knife jig?  If so, yes.  It's the same.

Could be the lack of coffee yes
What I was meant to ask was: When the blade of the knife is to small to measure the angle, what is the + or - angel you can measure on the jig? Dont know if its -10°, was just a guess.
Then i meant if that goes for both the SVM-45 and the SVM-140? that would be depending on the material thickness of the jig.


And i have a new question:
How do you oil your leather honing wheel? I used "sewing machine" oil, very fine machine oil. I read that some people use that for there leather.
But i think it is still dry, i pored alot on there and polished it in with a peace of cloth.
When im honing on the leather wheel, the honing compound is almost completely dry and that makes some dust of if.

How wet should the leather be, soaked?
What do you use to lubricate it with?

Thanks a lot for all your help and answers, Im sure there will be more soon
Will start with more practice and, trail and error, but it was a good idea to join some training class. Will look in to that and see whats available.

I know I have seen some video where they explained that if the knife blade is very thin, you could measure the angel to the knife jig. But i cant find it, was it -10° on the angel or something like that?
Also, is it the same for both knife jigs?

Thanks again!

Hello.
I just got my T-7 yesterday. I really liked the machine, and the quality of it.
I have some questions.

My first knife i tried was a total failure Probably gone for the wrong angels, it was an old knife so it does not bother me. But i now understand that i have many hours in front of me to master the Technic.

When i bought the T-7 my thoughts was that i don't care to spend some extra money on a grinding machine, because maybe i could help others and sell the service. That way the more expensive machine felt more reasonable.

Is it possible to grind at a selling level with the T-7?
To be able to take charge for the service, the result most be 100%.

Is it a big diffrence with the Japanise stone, compared to the standard stone+leather honing?

I have read most i can find and watched most of the youtube videos on tormek.

I would try to use threds to puch the stone out. Use lots of washers or a pipe between the knut and the stone and puch it out. You will get so much force with a wrench.
Used this method on hydralic servosterings on boats, you get more force than with a sledgehammer.

Dont know exacly how it looks, but its worth a try. Its easier to make new threds than drilling a hole.