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With Tormek offering 250mm diamond wheels, is there any reason why they don't do a 250mm sized honing?

Always tempted by more sharpening stonez, I too could have been seduced to buy a dedicated 800 grit or 1000 gritsone, however I have discovered the effortless secret to grading the stone effectivley! The secret is to use cheap diamond sharpening/lapping stones to grade the Tormek wheel and I mean cheap the one I use cost me a few pounds plus I have a couple of lapping plates bought of ebay which again were much less than a tenner.

The diamond sharpening stone that I have has a 200 grit on ones side, Other grits I use are 1200 grit and 3000 grit. I find these give much better, faster and consistent results to the stone grader, very little pressure is used. It really takes very little effort and when changing to the 1200 grit (cause that's what I had) it gives a smooth surface. When I use the grader I always feel a few particles that have not been crushed that leave anoying scratches. Now I dont worry about changing grit when I need to, cause it's no trouble. Really I dont know why tormek stick with the stone grader I almost sold my Tormek because the results were so poor but it's was the stone grader. I'm sure some Tormek experts can use it but I get better results with cheap diamond stones. Most people who need to do some sharpening and have a tormek probably have some diamond stones lying around to give it a try.

Hope that helps someone.

To sharpen towards or away from the direction of travel is the question? Sorry if this is obvious for those with a Tormek machine but this question is from a non Tormek user.

With some jig's recommend for use with the tool rest in the vertical position and as a consequence the direction of rotation turns into the tool edge. Which I'd class as the normal direction for grinding to avoid a feathered edge.

While other jigs are specified for the tool rest in the horizontal position so the stone moves away from the edge of the tool. Which is the direction normally used for honing so the tool doesn't dig into the wheel.

So what is the reason for using vertical or horizontal with the Tormek system? Is it better for the tool or user, is feathering not an issue or some other esoteric Tormek reason or just a pragmatic works best?

Thanks again for any replies.

Congrat's on your purchase, I hope your new toy investment meets your expectations? I's still considering my options while saving up.

When I was looking a couple of weeks ago I stumbled across this chap's vid's on the tube (link below), which are very comprehensive, I dont understand Slovak but they are worth a watch anyhow. 

He uses a number of stones and compares the results, among them is a natural stone from Slovakia 'Rozsutec' which is around 6000 grit. It's not that expensive, there's a link somewhere on one of the vids that he quotes about 120 euro's. The other interesting one is a Naniwa Superstone 1000 which is around 200 euro's. From what I can pick up it's about finding combinations of stones what work for the steel to be sharpened.

Sharpening is an art as well as a science and financial black hole...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOAM5HV9NFE&list=PLyvmDLpm98IL5rrQLoLg4pIgvmkDtte1E&index=1

I've said this before, and Jeff has disagreed, but at 40X magnification I see scratches left on the bevel by the SG that do not get removed by the honing wheel. What I see at that magnification is that the surface between the scratches gets polished, but the scratches remain.

I'm inclined to agree with you Herman, while I don't have a Tormek machine, my current setup utilises a 1000 grit water stone and Tormek compound. I find that I have to use a fresh amount of the paste each time if I want to remove the scratches, which takes a bit of time and can be messy so I add a little and often. Even without a magnifier I can still see the old compound only polishes the scratches, more importantly it doesn't give a clean cut on my carving chisels.

So currently I have an intermediate step where I hone with some green wax from another sharpening system and this gives myself better, faster results then finish off with the Tormek compound. I see the Tormek honing paste a bit like their stone, it's a dual grit medium. Starting off at 3 microns (about 4000 grit I guess) but breaking down to 1 micro as I understand.

Therefore I would be interested in a specific honing wheel with single grit size, it's just the price makes me consider other options.

As there are a number of fancy wheels available, the Japanese and the black one, then there are some 'aftermarket' wheels from Naniwa, Suntiger as well as a couple made for Dick, Dictum Gmbh and probably some more around.

First question, if wheels are changed do they require to be trued up with diamond truing tool each time they are placed on the machine? Or can you just lock and go?

Second question, anyone have experience of any of these and what value they bring if any? I see a similar question was asked in 2011 but had no reponces, so hopefully there will be some experience in the forum this time.

Thanks again all.

My grandfather made violins I was told but alas I did not inherit any knowledge or tools.

The thought of grinding metal with diamond sends shivers down my back. I've tryed it on a set of cheap diamond plates and did not find it a pleasurable experience. It gave me the same sensation as those old Tom and Jerry cartoons when Tom would scratch his nails down the side of a ship but i was probably doing it wrong.

Thanks for everyone's informed questions. I'm just doing this for myself to establish if I can distinguish the difference between a hollow grind or flat before I invest in a better power sharpener. So the method used are purely personal and just for my own experience.

I've started with a 8inch equivalent hollow as that was simple for myself to achieve. I'm planing to produce a hollow equivalent to 10inch over the next week or so to see how that feels. Then flatten that and explore some different techniques around that.

The two chisels are the same type I've just ground one flat and one hollow, the cut angle is near enough the same when lined up against each other. I've not counted the scratches or anything like that, I've just used an equivalent technique on both, sorry it's not more scientific but it's as close as I can do without to much fuss.

I'm happy that it's easy enough to flatten a hollow grind if required so it's not so much of an issue now but until you try you don't know. However currently I still don't know if I will be able to determine between a 10inch hollow grind or a flat one but I'm interested to see if it is perceivable. Then also to explore any advantages or disadvantages it might bring.

Thanks again for every-ones tormek informed contributions.

Thanks for your considered words, Ken and Torm Mod, certainly giving my fingers something to think about.

Today after some grinding and sharpening I had a chance to compare two chisels which were exactly the same, one with a flat grind and one with a hollow grind. There is still more research for my fingers to do however there was huge difference in the feel of the carve between the chisels. On first impressions there are allot more angels on the flat grind, I found it a cleaner and more controllable cut. I wasn't expecting such a difference and it is a totally subjective personal experience. There are some other changes and experiments I wish to do but just to say thanks and these fingers are working on it and thanks for the guidance.

While doing my research I was also investigating how I would use a tormek machine to produce a flat grind and I believe is would be very suitable for that, especially as the wheel is upright I can look right down the eye on the needle as I call it and check the enlightenment of the grind. Yes I would try using it correctly as with the instructions in the manual but once I'd done that I'll probably throw them away and start doing it wrongly, to get the result's I'm after.

So all I need to do now is start saving up

There are some other aspects which I feel are worth discussing but I'll check the forums so see if there are any old angels hiding in there and might start another topic.

Thanks all

Greetings followers of the Tormek, I am considering converting to your sharpening religion but have some concerns which I'd appreciate some guidance from the converted.

Things I like; quality, tolerances, cool, health, however my concern is over hollow grinding. I understand it has it's place but for myself is a no no. For carving chisels at shallow angle or hard steel, it is not good plus the bevel guides the chisel, so it is a compromise I am reluctant to make.

To get around this the common method on standard grinders is to present the chisel at right angles to the wheel. Another alternative is to use the side of the wheel.

My current system is flat grinder with 7inch waterstones which has it's benefits but is cheap and nasty plastic with bad tolerances. However with the flat of the stone facing up there is good flexibility over how the tool can be presented to the stone, which I enjoy especially as most of my grinding is done freehand.

Regarding to tormek if the tool is presented at right angles then this negates the use of all the jigs that are available. If the side of the wheel is utilised this looks awkward ergonomically. There is available the Jet Wetstone Side Wheel Grinding Jig, which is possibility but looks like it would be placed inconveniently for any real practical use.

My current system was around 100 pounds/euros/dollars so I dont mind messing around with it to get the best or of it. However when spending £500+ on a machine I am reluctant to have to start messing about with it to get the best out of it.

My hope is that the T-8 would come with a universal support system for using and truing the side of the wheel easily but until that happens I would be interested to hear the views and experiences of the tormek converts.

Thanks