I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I've had a worksharp for a number of years and developed reasonably good techniques with it. When flattening a back whether chisel or plane iron, the challenge is how quickly the worksharp comes up to speed. A footswitch gave me increased control but it's fairly easy to dub (round over) the edge by rocking the iron while pressed to the spinning wheel. I suspect that the same care is needed when using the side of the Tormek stone in that keeping the tool pressed flat and under control is essential. I also suspect that the slower speed of the Tormek along with the water bath to keep the iron cool is also an advantage. The worksharp is adequate but generates considerable heat and produces much metal dust that's flung everywhere. I'm looking to improve my sharpening processes hence the interest in the Tormek.
The Tormek produces a hollow grind. There are some woodworkers that see a hollow grind as the work of the devil and something to be avoided. While I have flat ground for quite sometime, I don't share the disdain for a hollow grind process. In fact, it removes less material and would seem to eliminate the need for a micro bevel because of the reduced material removed. I have done some free hand honing with a hollow grind configuration and for me, it seemed easier to stay true to the bevel when free handing because of the platform created by the hollow grind.
Ken, you make a great point about using a square and marker to track and check the squareness of the grind. I have used the same approach and it really helps. The problem with my current configuration is the difficulty in correcting when the sharpening process starts going out of square. What technique do you use on the Tormek to adjust the squareness of your grinding?
Thanks again to all for the information.
Tom
The Tormek produces a hollow grind. There are some woodworkers that see a hollow grind as the work of the devil and something to be avoided. While I have flat ground for quite sometime, I don't share the disdain for a hollow grind process. In fact, it removes less material and would seem to eliminate the need for a micro bevel because of the reduced material removed. I have done some free hand honing with a hollow grind configuration and for me, it seemed easier to stay true to the bevel when free handing because of the platform created by the hollow grind.
Ken, you make a great point about using a square and marker to track and check the squareness of the grind. I have used the same approach and it really helps. The problem with my current configuration is the difficulty in correcting when the sharpening process starts going out of square. What technique do you use on the Tormek to adjust the squareness of your grinding?
Thanks again to all for the information.
Tom