Messages

Thanks Stig. I have no objection to purchasing a new unobrainum  trough, but given all the plastic trash currently floating around the world, I would rather not be a willing participant if it can be avoided or delayed.

I was wondering if anyone can identify the type of plastic used to make the Tormek water trough. I've looked at the website but they don't identify the material.
I have a small crack developing at one of the hinge points and would like to toughen it up so need to know what bonding agent is necessary. I'm not sure I want to plastic weld it due to the troughs thinness.
TIA

Does anyone have experience sharpening a scythe on the T-7. Tormek shows sharpening free hand with the wheel turning towards you and removal of the honing wheel. I'm assuming the scythe does not need peening. I would use a magic marker to determine the original bevel but I was hoping for additional info. from the pros...
Thanks in advance

I currently have the T-7 and am looking at purchasing a T-4. I am very interested in using my used up T-7 wheels on the T-4 so I would like to ask the knowledgeable folks on this forum the following question. What would be the best way to reduce the width of a used T-7 stone to fit the T-4 shaft? Is it doable?
I would guess that someone would be able to suggest a method to at least make this remotely possible. Ideas?

I have started to sharpen turning/carving tools with some success but I'm not convinced I have the correct technique. I am considering purchasing the TNT-300 video but was wondering how much detail it has regarding sharpening wood carving tools in addition to the wood turning tools. Any information is appreciated.
Regards

I agree with grepper, they can be done free hand with varied results.
A local machinist made up a simple jig for the small slicer blades but it too had some issues.
I wonder if you could use the scissor jig platform and drill a hole into it to allow the blade to be secured/locked into place. The scissor jig would allow for setting the correct bevel and could be checked with the magic marker tip. Once in place you could safely control the grind (single pivot point) and then simply flip it over to sharpen the second bevel at the same angle. Cut proof gloves would be absolutely necessary.
If anyone is interested, I can forward you a photo of the machinist slicer jig.

As per the Tormek instruction book I always replace my sg-250 wheel when the stone gets to about 200mm. Over the years I have accumulated a lot of stones in this category.
Occasionally, I will fit one on my Tormek to sharpen a large cleaver or double axe. Other than that I have not found any other suitable use for them. Considering the cost of these wheels I was hoping to hear some ideas of how to use them beyond the Tormek recommended wheel life. Thanks for your input.

Does anyone have any recommendations with regards to sharpening hook blades on the T-7. I find blades, similar to the horticultural pruning knives, have such an acute hook that it is hard to sharpen even on the edge of the stone often leaving  an uneven bevel. Are these knives designed for hand stone sharpening only? Suggestions welcomed.

My setup is a low profile stainless roasting pan with a cooling rack (think baked goods) inside it. The pan acts as a water reservoir, collecting any water from changing out the trough etc. and the rack keeps my Tormek elevated and out of the water. When I all done I simply remove the water trough from my Tormek and leave it in the roasting pan and then slide my setup out of the way allowing more room on my work bench. Simple but effective.   

Thanks Jeff, Dan and Elden. I think I've been able to attach photobucket images of my current attempt to sharpen the paper knife. Elden, the machine I am using (AV-40) is similar to the bed knife grinding machine that you refer to but on a much smaller scale.
I clamp the knife on the rails, adjust my motor to the desired angle and manually move my cone wheel into the bevel. Once I have the contact I move the jig manually across the rails. Hopefully you can see the images of my two different angle settings. One is at 24 degrees (recommended) but only touches the very edge of the bevel. The other angle is set to 70 degrees which allows me contact across the entire bevel. I can get a good edge with 70 degrees but it wears and chips easily.
Tried to speak to the knife maker but they were less than co-operative.
Thanks again
I may need to load the second image in a separate post

Thanks for the reply Elden and the link to the previous posts regarding this problem.
The paper cutting knife has a 5/8" primary bevel on it. It's from a commercial cutting machine. The difficulty I'm having is trying to find a stone or wheel that will cover the full 5/8" bevel. I have tried to use a ceramic cone but find I must grind to an extremely high degree (70 degrees) to cover all of the bevel but the fine edge chips easily.
Most of the information I have suggests that a common angle for these knives lies somewhere around 24 degrees so I'm uncertain if I need a different sharpening wheel or if a completely different machine is used (CNC comes to mind).
Again, I appreciate your reply.

Hello forum members. I have used the Tormek jig for my 12" planer knives and like how well they worked.
But, I have been approached by a local non-profit organization and asked if I can sharpen their paper cutter knives. The Tormek is too small for the 21" knives but I was wondering if anyone on this forum would have some suggestions as to how this could be done. I do have some other sharpening equipment- belt sander, Thorvie av-40, bench grinder but I'm just not sure how to get started. Would anyone be willing to chat about this type of sharpening. With the wealth of knowledge on this site I figure someone would have some answers.
thanks in advance

Thanks for the reply Ken. Most of the time this is not a problem. Since most of my sharpening services are portable I often don't have the option of having another stone available. I was just hoping someone had some successful visual tips on how to achieve that 17-20 degree angle.
I did like the paper wheel tip and may draw that up on my stones...
Again thanks for your help 

Occasionally, I find myself in situations where I need to grind knives freehand. This is especially true when I have switched to a new wheel and am sharpening wide blade knives ie. cleavers, pizza knives or conversely when using a smaller diameter wheel to sharpen very thin filet knives etc.  I try to freehand by watching the water coming off the blade but again the results are mixed.
Does anyone have a particular method that works for them? I would like to establish a more consistent approach.
Thanks

Anyone have ideas on how to get a good sharpening on a thin blade fillet knife? I have tried to use both the short and long jigs and also purchased the extra jig for smaller knives but I cannot seem to get the angle sorted out. I seem to always be making contact between the jig and wheel.
Can an extension of some sort be added to one of the jigs which would allow the knife to stay ahead of the jig? I'm seeing a lot more of these knives since our salmon season has arrived. Not complaining tho....