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Thanks for the replies, and the great advice, and sorry for the dumb questions!

I have had a play around with an old 1 inch chisel, which came out so well, I thought I must have been doing something wrong!

On a related theme, polishing the bevel on the leather honing wheel was no problem using the jig, but when I come to remove the burr on the back of the blade, is there a trick or technique to not rounding the back over at the edge, or is it just a case of go slow and watch carefully?

Ellis

Hello,

I bought my first Tormek (a T7) a month or so ago, and I have found it to be excellent in all respects and fairly straight forward to use, (mostly chisels and bench plane blades) but I do have a few questions...

1. By hand on water stones, I would sharpen a 25 degree primary bevel and a 30 degree secondary, for example. Do I need to use this primary/ secondary bevel system with the Tormek, or just put a 30 bevel  on the whole thing because it's just as fast on the machine to do the entire bevel?

2. I read somewhere that it is a good idea to add a couple of degrees to the grinding angle to provide extra support to the hollow bevel. Is this correct?

3. Once I have ground my tools on the coarse and then fine grades, I assume I just need to keep the stone fine graded for regular sharpening on undamaged blades, but will the stone remain graded at the fine state, or will I need to continually use the fine side of the stone grader to maintain the grit?
What I am trying to say is, does the stone eventually return to a coarse state when it has been set with the fine side of the stone grader or does it remain fine until regraded as coarse?

Thanks in advance

Ellis.