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Messages - The Finn

#1
General Tormek Questions / Re: Axe jig
November 12, 2012, 07:24:11 PM
Quote from: Jeff Farris on November 12, 2012, 05:44:08 AM
220 (ungraded). Axes generally need quite a bit of stock removal, and the steel is fairly soft.

Thanks! Just sharpened one medium sized splitting axe. I used jig for the sharp edge and convexed rest with freehand. Results were way better than I expected :)
#2
General Tormek Questions / Re: Axe jig
November 11, 2012, 11:26:38 PM
Jeff, what grit would be good choice for basic axe sharpening?
#3
Quote from: Jeff Farris on November 06, 2012, 05:29:41 PM
Take a look at this (really old) video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYURcwkKGPs

Specifically at about 4:47 minutes in you'll see how I hold the jig, I have my thumb on the stop (or as I called it in the video, the "head") and my fingers on the clamp. There's a close up showing it in better detail at 6:15.

Well my first "knife" was the puukko wich I tried to grind a new bevel. Using extra force and 220 grit apparently was too much for the beginner like me. Now I've sharpened lots of regular knifes with 1000 grit and I must admit that I can control the sharpening process so that the stop doesnt rotate accidentally. Thank's Jeff.
#4
Quote from: shotkizer on October 08, 2012, 10:05:45 PM
I purchased a T7 and am in the process of learning it.   NOT impressed with the o-ring feature of the knife jigs.  It does NOT, repeat DOES NOT, keep the handle from turning.  Can I purchase the old jig that locks in the handle?

I also purchased T7 and practicing with it. It is extremely hard if not impossible hold this small knife jig so that handle doesnt move. Please everyone, give some hints to make this jig more practical.