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Hi Mark, I haven't posted here in a awhile but I do stop in to read once in awhile.  Your post caught my attention as I had the same problem, well sort of the same problem.  I bought my Tormek probably twenty years ago, non-stainless shaft, and never once did I remove the stone from the shaft (big mistake).  Then one day I noticed a crack in the wheel, I tried to take the stone off the shaft but it was no use.  Now, my stone had a fair amount of wear on it and being that it was cracked I saw little sense in trying to save it.  I tried some of the tactics you did to remove the shaft but all my efforts failed and my stone broke into three pieces.  The point of this post is that after seeing how my shaft was "bonded" to the stone I have very serious doubts about you saving your stone.  It was almost as if the shaft and the stone had become one, I never would have imagined that two very different materials could form such a bond.  Other than drilling out the steel as you've already tried I see no other way to save the stone.   Just was wondering how you made out.
Now, on another topic, and the real reason I came to the forum today, was to share  a funny story.
I was cleaning out an old storage cabinet in my work shop today when I noticed the end of an old Tormek box sticking out from under a pile junk.  The end of the box said SVH-320 and thought for sure it was just an old, empty box form one of the many jigs I had purchased with the original unit.  Upon extracting the box I was shocked almost beyond words when I realized that the box wasn't empty.  Inside the old box was a brand new, un-used Planer/Jointer sharpening jig.  Price tag on the said $134.95, I felt like I had just hit lotto.  Perhaps my dementia is worse than I thought it was!  I cannot remember buying it.  Now here's the funny part, last year when my stone broke I almost bought this jig along with a new shaft and wheel but finally decided that for nearly a couple of hundred bucks I might be better off just buying new blades.  I can't even imagine how I would have felt today if I had in fact purchased this jig last year.  Course, I probably could have sold this one for what I originally paid for it so I suppose there would have been some consolation for being such an old fool.

I wasn't familiar with the term "slugge bit" so I did a search and the closest thing I came up with was slugger bit.  If those are the bits you're asking about I don't think the DBS-22 would do the job but perhaps someone else better qualified than I will chime in.

Ken

Thanks for confirming using the regular stone with the DBS-22.  Actually, I found a couple of video's that show a demo of using the jig today and was pleasantly surprised to see both of the demonstrators were using the regular stone.  One of the videos was about ten minutes long and was actually quite good.  So, after reading your review and then watching those videos I'm convinced  that's the way I'll go.
By the way, I told my wife you said I really needed to have one!

Nice review Ken!  You pretty much answered all of my questions.  Being able to use the standard stone probably takes away the last reason I had for not buying the DBS-22.  Like you, I just plain and simple enjoy using fine tools and find it very relaxing to just sit and sharpen anything!

Actually no, I didn't notice that Ken.  I feel very fortunate  to have found this site and am looking forward to learning from the experiences of others and contributing here I can.
One other question Ken, I know you said you use the silicon stone for sharpening HSS drill bits but did you ever use the standard stone for that task.  From what I've read the SG will sharpen all types of steel, just not as fast.  I guess my point is, if I could get away with the stone I have I just might spring for the DBS-22. 

Update:  Received my new shaft and wheel yesterday from Affinity Tool Works, installed in about 10 minutes and am happy to say I'm back in business.  The easy lock nut on the new shaft works great, sure makes maintaining the shaft and bearings a no brainer.  I also ordered the rotating base which I think will make my life a lot easier.
Mike, I agree with you on the DBS-22.  For me it would not only be the price of the jig ($265), I  would also need to purchase the black stone for doing my HSS bits.  Considering the nearly $500 up front cost (in my case) I'd have to think the Drill Doctor would be the wiser choice.  You said that your Drill Doctor does a "beautiful  job", may I ask which model you have?  From what I've read I think I'd go for the 750X.  Your thoughts?

Hi Ken, glad to hear it wasn't all the tools, either I misread your post or more likely forgot exactly what I had read.  At least they didn't get your accessories, you sound like you have quite a variety.  By the way, when you try out that very expensive drill jig I'd be very interested to hear how you liked it.  I have a ton of old drills that just don't cut it anymore and was considering the Drill Doctor to bring them back to useable condition.  My dad use to sharpen his bits on a grinding wheel by hand but I don't have that kind of skill.  I didn't know Tormek made a jig for doing this until last week when I first visited their site.  If I remember right it was north of $200 but if it performs well it may be a better long term investment than a Drill Doctor.  Is the SB wheel for sharpening HSS? 
Anyone else using the drill sharpening jig?  Your thoughts?
Just got your new post, thanks for the tip, I will have a peek at that video.

Herman, Tormek referred me to "their agent" Affinity Tool Works in Troy Mi. to redeem the discount offer.  The people there were very nice to deal with, plus it appears as though they carry a very nice line of woodworking tools. 

All of your tools???  Wow, perhaps I should consider myself lucky! 
Actually I have an update concerning my problem.  After posting here and getting some good feedback I decided to contact Tormek about the rust issue.  About a week later I heard back from customer support offering me a discount on a new shaft and stone  which I jumped all over.  So, as we speak there is a new stainless steel shaft and a new stone on the way!  I was so pleased with Tormek that I also ordered the new revolving base (not discounted) for my soon to be better than new machine.
This is my first experience dealing with Tormek customer service and I have to give them an A+ as they really didn't have to offer me anything.
So I say to all my fellow Tormek users, although the initial investment is significant, you made a wise decision in giving your business to a company that stands their product.
I'm actually kind of glad that I had a problem or else I may never have found this site, what a great resource!  If you folks don't mind I think I'll hang around for awhile.

No, not much wear at all, I figured I had at least inch of wear left before I had to pony up for a new one. 
As for the uneven wear I can't say for sure what caused that but in my manual's Maintenance section there is the following statement; "If using the natural sandstone wheel, lower the water trough after grinding so that the stone does not remain in water.  Otherwise, the lower part of the stone will become soft and wear irregularly."
That's where I got that idea from.

The wheel measures 9 1/8 inches, I misunderstood your original question, sorry. 
I probably used the stone truing tool 3-4 times, I now think that was necessary due to leaving water in the trough which can cause uneven wear.

Thanks for all the responses.  After posting this morning I headed back out to the workshop to see if I could determine the cause for sure.  I took pictures of the whole demolition process and if anyone is interested I'll post them.  By the way, I have the 10 inch (250) wheel.  I was unable to remove the nut from the shaft on the grinding wheel so I took the honing wheel off and was able to pull the stone and shaft out in one piece.  When I examined the wheel I found two more hairline cracks radiating out from the center of the stone but had not reached the outer edge.  I tried in vain to remove the wheel from the shaft, even after the stone broke into three pieces there was still stone stuck to the shaft.  One poster used the term "melded" which  is the best description of the problem.  It took a hammer and chisel to get down to the shaft which of course was heavily corroded. 
So, what caused the shaft to corrode and meld itself to the stone?  Water!  I usually never emptied the water trough, nor did I ever lubricate the bearings.  The maintenance section in the manual talks about leaving water in the trough and says the only potential problem it will cause is uneven wearing of the stone.  It further states that the bearings need no lubrication unless you hear noise and should last 1000 hours.  Actually my bearings look ok.  Bottom line, no warning at all about the checking for corrosion of the shaft.
I would highly recommend that anyone who has an older machine to remove the wheel and check for corrosion.  If you are unsure which shaft you have take a magnet and touch it to the shaft, if it sticks you could have a problem, if it doesn't you're good to go with stainless.
One last thing, if anyone can recommend a good place to buy spare parts I'd be very appreciative.
It's great machine and I wouldn't part with it but in my view it should have had stainless from the get go.  What the hell were they thinking?

I have the Super Grind 2000, purchased around 8+ years ago and it has been wonderful machine.
Went to use it the other day and noticed a tick, tick, tick sound as I was sharpening a knife.  Stopped machine and inspected the grinding wheel and found a crack right across the face of the wheel.  Now, I don't use the machine all that frequently but I do know that the last time I used it it was fine.  Upon further inspection I found a severely rusted shaft (I have the old nickle plated one), so rusted in fact that it appears to be frozen to the wheel.  The crack runs right down to the shaft.  I can not account for any reason as to why the stone would have cracked other than the build up of rust on the shaft.
Does this sound feasible?  Anyone else ever have this happen? 
I see that Tormek offers an "upgraded shaft", a stainless steel shaft. 
So now I'm looking at $300 worth of parts to bring my machine back to working condition, kind of puts a lump in my throat.