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Based on what I read, I set the SVD-185 with JS=0, P=65, Loc=A and just doesn't seem right.  Has anyone had better luck with other settings?

Thanks

George

I read previous posts on sharpening these shorter gouges where the flute was no longer able to seat the jig.  Besides milling flats (a valid recommendation), I can see two other possible approaches (My current setting is 65mm, JS2, A):

1. Move Setting to 55M (or possible shorter) and dial in a "custom" spacer rather than hole A using the black marker method.
2. Mover to Hole B and then dial in a custom length with the marker method and then create a template similar to what a lot of us did with the Wolverine (I know, a dirty word)

I see number 2 as a preferable approach for repeatability.

Any holes in my logic?

George

That was what I was planning; just wanted to be sure I hadn't missed anything.

Thanks Jeff

George

Similar problem on an earlier topic; I can grind the bowl gouge but when I try to hone it, the righ wing extends to far left of the honing wheel to be dressed.  Same setup as grinding (75mm, JS=6, back hole on TTS)

George Taylor

Got mine yesterday as well.

George

I think I have a working machine.  I really couldn't get the motor out to clean it thoroughly since the phillips heads are all stripped; so I sprayed air and degreaser and air again and then squirted some 3-in-1 and now it seems to be a bit quieter (still not whisper quiet).  Pitched everything with rust, cleaned the stone and installed the EZ Lock.  Put 3 bottles of water in the trough an then trued it up.  Sharpened my favorite bowl gouge and then gave it a test run on the lathe ... seems to be cutting very well.  I will have to look at the videos again on honing (especially with the gouge jig).  The seller (eBay) didn't like my dissatisfied rating and wanted me to return it.  He still claims no rust; oh well, I believe I have a serviceable machine (at least for several years - hopefully) ... if I need a new motor then, I have probably got my moneys worth.

Thanks for all the input and support ...

George

I will check around with my local club; not that you mention it, it sounds like bearings.

The drive shaft that turns the wheels also has a bunch of black "gunk" on it which I will clean off.  This us nit must have gotten a lot of use ...

Thanks for the feedback

Thanks for the reply, Jeff; I will clean up the stone tomorrow.  I turned the unit on with the stone of and the shaft completely removed and the motor was still making a consistent grinding sound.  Almost like when the ignition can't quite turn over the engine of a an older car (not quite that loud).  That is just the sound, the motor at this point seemed to be moving the stone consistently when i turned the unit on initially.  I guess a replacement motor could be in my future.  I guess I didn't get such a great deal on eBay. 

Thanks again

George

Just received it this week and the condition of the machine needs some work.  On first inspection the nut and washer holding the stone was covered in rust.  I removed them and pulled the whole shaft.  I have the EzyLock Main Shaft Kit coming in the next few days to replace the shaft and I am retrying to clean the residue from the rusted washer off the stone. 

First question - do I need to get all the rust off the stone to insure I do not introduce rust once I re-assemble?  If so, any good suggestion for its removal from the stone material, I do not want to pitch the whole stone if at all possible.

Second question - turning on the motor, it sounds a bit rough; is there any straightforward measures I can take to clean/lube the motor while I have it dissassembled?

I have been using the tormek jigs on my grinder for over a year and I am really looking forward to using the 2000.

Thanks

George Taylor