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Thanks

Hello, I have a T7 i bought when there was a free wheel for life. Now my wheel is getting close to the seven inches necessary to have a new replacement as promised.
Anybody knows how this free wheel thing works and how much time is needed for the replacement? I use the T7 an a daily base and would be a problem to be whithout it for a long time.
Thanks.

Jeff, the SVS-32 can be used, I believe for tools with a square grind, ie perpendicular to the tool axis. The german spindle has a round cutting edge: round seen from the flute side.
Here is a link where one can see the spindle
http://www.hamletcrafttools.co.uk/spindle-gouge.html
Thanks

Hello everybody, I have a german spindle gouge which I sharpen in the gouge grinding jig being 7/8 inch think. I'm considering buying a larger one but those cannot enter the jig that is limited to 1inch in diameter. Which solution I have?
PS: the "german" spindle gouge, which is similar to the "continental" spindle gouge, is forged from flat bar and although still manufactured and excellent in my opinion is being replaced by the usual spindle gouges in which the flute is grounded from a round stock. The characteristic of the german gouge is of having the walls of uniform thickness and with a very flat flute and a round nose, id the front cutting part. Mine is from Hamlet and here is a picture which I'm unable to post. Sorry.
Thanks.

I thought that my CBN wheel was aluminum but it is steel. I chececk with one of those rare earth magnets and it was a chore to remove it!
I gues the problem will be rusting wheels and they shoud make them of aluminum or other non rusting alloys. SS is so cheap now...
I will investigate further, but this australian website has a thread on the CBN wheels and Tormek.
http://www.woodworkforums.com

Hello everybody,
I have a 7"dry grinding Baldor with one composite wheel and a 8" CBN 80 grit wheel I use for shaping my woodturning tools. For the final and regular sharpening I use a Tormek T7. Now i'm reading more often of CBN wheels mounted on a Tormek. The idea is that water does not damage the wheel and actually helps in the grinding process.
My question is, has anybody used a CBN on the water bath of a Tormek? I guess that the diameter will not create problems since my regular Tormek stone is less than that.
Thanks

Hello everibody, I have a question regarding the gouge sharpening jig: The position of the sleeve is important for a reliable and constant presentation of the gouge to the stone but the jig is lacking a way to repeat a position. In other words, is there a way to consistently set the sleeve in the same position?

Hello, just check my post on the chatter marks I left previously. The lubrication is extensively treated.
Regards.

Thanks, that is what I have been doing.

Hello, I have a workshop that is heated by expensive electric heaters. Often I do not use it for a few days so I would like to turn off the heater but then the temperature could easily drip below freezing temperature.
Here is my question. Since the grinding stone absorb water, as demonstrated by the reduction of the water in the tray when it is first immersed, I'm afraid it will crack if left wet in the freezing temperature. To prevent this, besides using the heaters would it be possible to use a different liquid for grinding or is the water the only lubricant? Would an antifreeze, perhaps the type that is compatible with septic systems be feasible?
Thanks.

 Unfortunately today I stated to have again the chatter. When the diamond reaches the third exterior of the stone one can hear an "harmonic  noise and this leads to the chatter marks which now are more thin and numerous. I noticed that the internal washer is   rubbing against the black nylon bearing (by the way are these bearings or bushings?). Could this friction lead to the  harmonic noise and then chatter? I will trying with lithium grease while waiting for the T-9 or the DuPont dry Teflon lubricant I found at Amazon.
If this will not solve the problem I will try the warranty but I do not know how this work.
I have another question: I have a 7inch Baldor grinder that I use with the extra Tormek universal support. It was not easy to find the right eight but I believe now I got a good compromise. My question is, can I use the TT50 to true the dry stone of the Baldor?
Thanks for the time and help.

Hello Jeff,
I did what you recommended and here is the result: no chatter. To be more detailed, the motor is NOT completely silent but the noise do not feel too bad, rather smooth.  In any case I did not have a Teflon based lubricant and used a spray lubricant for electric motors and also rotated the copper/diamond tip. Then I used the truing tool and got a chatter free result. Tomorrow I'll do a more extensive testing.  I did not do things in stages so I do not know if it is was the lubricant or the diamond tip to fix the problem. I sense that it was the lubricant since this morning I lubricated the shaft with Vaseline (did not know what else to use) and the chatter remained only in the 20% external part of the stone. The external part of the wheel is where the chatter marks where always more evident.
Thanks, Sergio

PS: You think I should ask for a new motor for the low noise? Furthermore, could you tell me which is a "Teflon based lubricant" that I should use? I also feel that the Nylon bushing are not too appropriate for a machine that all said and done cost $1000  and Tormek should think abouth an upgrade.

I was finally able to reduce although not eliminating the chatter on the stone. I removed the profiled leather honing wheels (LA-120) which I just recently acquired. In my opinion the vibration comes from the motor. The situation is annoying and wander if anybody has a similar problem.

Yes Mike, I tightened it but nothing changed.

The shaft looks OK. I removed the wheel and turned the inner washer which had the round side against the wheel so that now that side is against the shaft, reassembled the wheel and external washer and tightened the nut carefully. The chatter is still there.
So I tried to grind with the grinder on the floor to eliminate the possibility that the table was vibrating but nothing changed.
I do not have anything in mind. The good thing is that the chatter is very consistent (like a resonance effect on the lathe) and probably will not affect too much the sharpening. But certainly would like to know what cause it.
Also, when the wheel turns there is a vibrating noise that seems to came from the motor.
Hope someone will a solution. If necessary I can post a picture of the chatter marks.