Messages

The Japanese stone was intended for cabinet makers and hand-tools, like chisels and carving gouges, that needs to have an extreme edge on some detailed work. We also have many Luthiers that swear to it, because it doesn't round the edge. This is not as critical on a knife.

Its become popular for knife sharpeners in recent years. I used it a lot in my early years at Tormek but when I became good at using the honing wheel, I used that more. The difference is that the PA-70 compound and leather honing wheel can not fully remove small scratches like the SJ stone can do. However, it polishes very well at the tip of an edge, which you can see using a magnifier.

When it comes to wear, I have not met many that have worn out an SJ stone during my years at Tormek, if any...

Why you need to hone after you have used the SJ stone seems strange, since the honing compound has less grid than the SJ, I think there is something else that might need to be adjusted. I had a user that said the same thing some years ago and I tried adding 1 degree when using the SJ stone, which removes burr faster, I got an answer back from him with a positive answer when he tried the same thing.
Might be worth trying.

Hi,
I understand your frustration and I hope to be able to help.
There are a couple of things we need to cover.

A tip is when you mount the SJ wheel, always mount it so the label of the stone always shows "SJ-250" in level. The first time you might need to true it, but after that, it should be ok. Tighten the Ezy-lock harder by holding the honing wheel with your left hand and pull the stone towards you before you start the machine, tighten the Ezy-lock first,  this also straightens the stone a little. This is not needed on the SG stone, I usually just start the machine and it tightens.

The SJ material is more sensitive and more expensive than the SG stones, so we cannot have the same solution with a "bushing" as in the SG stones, because it would crack the stone.
This is why it has almost double the tolerances than the SG stones. With that said, when we used natural stones back in the days, the runout was even more than the SJ stones and the result was still very good at that time.

It pleases me that you have good results, the edges become extremely sharp. Try the tip with the label being in level and let us know the outcome.

Sincerely,
Stig

Hi,
The diamond wheels for the Tormek T-2 do not have any diamonds on the side of the wheel.
This new design came earlier this year and is similar to the wheels we offer to the T-3/T-4 machines in its design, except those have diamonds on the side of the wheel.
Since the T-2 is strictly for chef's knives, there is no need for the side to be coated with diamonds.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
A diamond tip last's many stones lifetime if the user is careful. The model shown in the pictures was made before we had the adjustable nut on the support-bar as standard and I can see that it might have worn down faster than the set-up we have today with the TT-50 and US-105 with micro adjuster. It was more difficult to set it at a specific height.

They wear down faster when you remove a thick layer of stone. Then the stone wears down the copper from the side and the diamond will loosen faster. When I use a TT-50 I mostly set it around 1/2 step and rather go faster over the stone several times, and finish with the stone grader on its course side to smooth it out. Then the surface looks like a new stone too.

Luckily, I learn new things about our product too on a regular basis and I was told that diamonds can be up to 5mm in the tip, so more than we have learned in this tread.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Just a tip of a part of our website that has information regarding this,

https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/knowledge-inspiration/diamond-wheel-sharpening/

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Tormek T-2 has a stronger motor and more diamond on the diamond wheel, well suited for professional use. They are also approved and built for
the different kinds of use.

Best,
Stig

Greetings Tormek friends in USA,

I am happy to announce that the new Tormek T-1 Kitchen Knife Sharpener will be available in the USA, starting February 10th.
This new machine will be sold by www.sharpeningsupplies.com, and this first delivery is a limited batch of machines.

What sets this machine apart from conventional methods of "home sharpening" is that you can both hone the knife for maintenance on a separate honing wheel and resharpen it on a diamond grinding wheel when it needs a straight, new bevel and edge along the entire blade. The aim is to enable the quality-conscious home chef to quickly and easily resharpen their own knives to a precise angle for professional sharpness.

For more info about the Tormek T-1 Kitchen Knife Sharpener, please visit www.tormek.com

Best regards,
Stig

Hi,
Run the threaded leg on the bar thru the jig a couple of times, this removes any edge in the bushing if that would be the issue.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
The bushing is probably a little tight. Use the treaded part of the support bar and let the SE-77 tun on the treads a couple of times. That should fix it.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
The direction has always been the same. If you need to push the stone to get it going it's either the capacitor that needs to be replaced or that the drivewheel is slippery. Use sandpaper on the drivewheel to get fresh rubber. If the capacitor is bad, you have less power in the machine too.
Best,
Stig

cbwx34,
Happy that you can use other ways of measurements that give you the result you need for your knives.

tgbto,
Most times when we do demos or sharpens knives on a tradeshow, we replicate the original edge mostly. Using the marker method is a great way to replicate most edges.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Somewhat surprised reading that the angle master would not work when used on knives and especially standard kitchen knives.
This is my main method when I set new knives up, and after that, I use the marker method. After I set knives up at a wanted angle, and sharpened them, I used the CATRA Laser goniometer which showed that I achieved my goal.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Just a reminder of the DC-250, which many knife sharpening services use. Removing material from a knife-edge is normally a fast procedure since the amount of metal is very little on regular chef knives. Even with some chip-out, the 360 grid DC-250 makes it an easy task. The time it takes to exchange several stones/wheels is more time-consuming than using a maximum of two wheels.

I am also surprised why so many seem to try diamond or CBN before they learn to use the SG stone, with its 220-1000 capabilities. You can apply a higher pressure than on a CBN or Diamond wheel and quickly get it coarser with the SP-650, stone grader. This stone is my go-to any day.

My best tip still is to learn about how much pressure to apply. You can easily save minutes when this has become a part of the skill to sharpen.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
It's a product with very limited production and currently not for sale.

Best,
Stig

Impressive, such an artist.