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Tormek lists its paste as 3 microns so it is a bit courser than the green stick but they both give a high polish.  The Tormek paste is a little faster due to the slightly larger grit.  I have used them interchangeably and could never really tell the difference in the finished edge.  8000 grit or 30,000 grit, either way it takes more microscope than I have to see the difference.  I have never cleaned between the two except maybe a quick wipe with a dry cloth to get rid of the little black junk that clutters up the wheel after use.

Neal

I just use the standard 220/1,000 grit stone starting with the course (220) if I haven't sharpened a tool in a while and then regrading to fine (1,000)to finish up the grind. I go from that right to the
leather hone and Chromium Oxide with no steps in between.  It probably takes little longer than using an intermediate stone but given the changeover time I doubt there is a lot of difference and the end result is the same.  It is not necessary to sharpen every time and unless I damage an edge, I just hone with Chromium oxide from time to time-it's just like grinding with a very fine stone.  

Neal

Just remember a 4,000 grit water stone will take you to a 3 micron edge, and an 8000 grit water stone will only take you to a 1.2 micron edge but power honing on the Tormek leather wheel with Green Chromium Oxide will take you down to a 1/2 micron edge and takes relatively little time.

Neal 

If the handle is small enough and the blade properly aligned to the handle, you can clamp the chisel in the jig by the handle. 

My daughter plays bassoon which is also a double reed instrument with similar reed making demands.  She played through high school, eight years full time with the Marine Corps and is now with the NH Army National Guard 39th Army Band.  I will check with her when I see her but if memory serves me right, "reed making" is really the wrong term.  It's more about profiling ready made reeds for your individual requirements.  I know my daughter profiles all her own reeds.  Some folks also make their own but usually only very serious professionals.

There are different knives for taking thin shavings off the round root of the reed and for scraping the thin, flattened section that goes in the mouth.  Some are hollow ground both sides and others have only a single bevel.  I used to sharpen her knives on an oil stone before purchasing the Tormek.  The Tormek is more than capable of doing a good job but profiling is an ongoing task and having the ability to sharpen the knives in the field during use might make a small stone more practical.  There is a book on sharpening reed making knives at:

http://nielsen-woodwinds.com/p-5043-book-reed-knife-sharpening-book-by-daryl-caswell.aspx

Neal