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Trevor just a question what angle did you have the primary angle set for and what did you adjust it to. What was the size of the drill bit that changed it on.

Just a bit of info for everyone out there

These machines aren't really very good at sharpening drill bits.  I use the Drill Doctor.  It works great.

I have the equivalent of the T7.  My chisels and plane irons have never been sharper.  I also use it to sharpen knives, lawn mower blades, and just about anything else with an edge. 

I have no experience with the T3, but I doubt I'd be happy with it after having used the older version of the T7 for many years now.

Have to agree with Jeff on this. The new drill sharpening jig is the bees knees.

The T7 for me any day, by the time you buy the extras you are up near the cost of the T7 and if you are going to try and sharpen everyones drill bits it will be working for a long time.

And for those like me who dont know where Yeovil is have a look herehttp://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=Yeovil+%28UK%29&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Yeovil,+UK&gl=au&ei=r-ysTIKCFYeMvQOfraz-Bg&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBsQ8gEwAA

My My Robbo after 60 years you are finally learning to read. 

Must admit this is definatly one jig where it is best to peruse the instructions before attacking the job.

One thing Robbo omited was he also tried the hilti style masonary bits and was able to sharpen those successfully using the Black wheel, the grey wheel is too soft for the TCT on these type drills.

So a good tip for all those who use these type drill bits, beats sending them back to the drill doctor and getting charged heaps to sharpen.

Yes it is easy to do.

Depends on where you are as to where your local supplier is.

Have a look  here http://tormek.com/international/en/resellers/ for your closest supplier

If it has been sitting around for that long it could just be the plastic bearings that need replacing.

With the weight of the wheel on one end it may have flattened the bearing and not allow the wheel to rotate properly causing the wobble.

It is a pity but it looks like it will not do the brad point drill bits, now that would be a real bonus.

From reading the paperwork so far yes set up and use should be easy, now just have to get one and have a closer look.

We have been having a discussion about this on another forum and the general concencus is that you dont need to be a professional to use this jig or any other jig.

I will bet there is not many people out there that can sharpen a drill bit to exact shape every time.
Some may say yes I can but it does not last very long, this may be due to having 2 slightly different angles or the wrong angle or the wrong relief.

The reason most people buy the tormek is to get the repeatability of shape and grind and this is the same with the drill jig.


Yes it may be expensive AUS$395.00 but how many drill bits do you have sitting in the bottom drawer that could do with a good lick to fix up and reuse.

They will sharpen from 1/8" - 7/8"

Have a look here http://tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/dbs-22-drill-bit-sharpening-attachment/ at the promo

The BGM-100 is a good addition as you are able to shape the tools prior to going to the tormek for final sharpening.

To shape a tool on the tormek can take quite a while but on a spark grinder only minute.

Have a look at the video http://tormek.com/international/en/accessories/other-accessories/tt-50-truing-tool/

This shows you how to do it easily.

Just take very small bites at it so you are only dressing it lightly.

If you take too big a bite it can chip the edge of the wheel of when getting close to the edge.

You will find if only doing flat tools that you will not need to dress very often, gouges tend to take the centre out so redressing is needed more often when you go back to the flat work.

Another easy option for the wide skew chisels that dont fit into the SVS-50 jig is to use your Square Edge Jig SE-76

You use the jig on the lower bar at the front of your Tormek.

Draw a pencil line square across the wheel then set up your skew chisel in the square edge jig with about 60mm protrusion.

Place the skew chisel and jig on the bar and set the top of the skew parralel to the line you have drawn on the wheel.

Now move the support bar in or out to get the bevel matching the wheel.

This can be a bit fiddly when you want to change over to dress the other side but is doable.

Another option is to radius the short side of the skew chisel so it fits into the SVS-50 jig, P&N and Hamlet fit but Robert Sorby with their square edges dont.