Messages

Thanks for the reply....After my first post, and having read another place you suggested the corner, I did just that and it helped a lot.  I was just afraid of being too aggressive.  Carborundum sticks on a regular grind wheel can make a dent in a hurry.

You answered the 'how often to stone' question...how about this...for the average non-commercial guy, how long should I expect the grinding wheel to last?  1yr....10yrs.  Just a guess, please.

P.

I (and I stress 'I') must be doing something wrong!

I am a newb to the t7 but not the concept of grinding/honing.
I cannot get the wheel to cut at a rate that is acceptable.  I just spent an hour on one 6 inch jointer blade.  My neck and back are killing me (machine height is low as demonstrated and specified.).  When doing chisels it seems to work ok, but with the planer/jointer blade attachement it is taking forever.

The blade I just did was dull, and had been hand hones low on one corner.  No major dings.

The only way I can get it to cut with the jig at any acceptable rate is to dress the wheel rough.  Seems like I'll go through the wheel in too big a hurry to be the right approach.  I freshen the wheel with the stone and it is a little better.

I need some serious help on this one.  What am I missing.  I'm concerned that the wheel looks to load up very quickly.  I'd post a pic. but don't see how on this site.

Someone save me...I want to love my T7.

P.

In regard to the last comment...I just purchased a T7 and although it didn't appear glazed, it was WAY out of true.  When I sharpened my first chisel I could feel the wheel moving my hands up and down.
I used the dressing/trueing tool and it was fine.

P.