Messages

Gary, first of all I wish to apologize to you and thank Jeff for catching my mistake. When I quoted you the bevel on the hedge shears I was not looking at the right records from my file and the angles I gave you of 24 deg to 30 deg were for Machette's. As many times that I have sharpened hedge trimmers it should have registered but it didn't. So once again with no excuses I apologize for the incorrect info and wish to thank Jeff for correcting me. (Jeff is right - 45 to 60)

Ken

Oh I would say around 25 on the angle, that's generally what I've found them to be. I have had a few at 30 but it's not super critical in my opinon.


Ken

Martin, I have sharpened some of these meat slicer blades and I do them free hand, so you will have to take your time and see what works best for you.  I will say that it has been the 4 wing blades and that I have not done any of the round one's yet. Best of luck.


Ken

I have a sharpening service and before the T7 I used a home made wet stone driven by a furnance motor and an alternater belt. It did a pretty good job until I saw what the T7 can do for knives, scissors, and all kinds of shop and home utensils. I would call the edge I get now as a very refined and durable edge. This is probably the best investment I've made for this business as far as doing flat blade utensils.

Jeff, have you used the SB250 on any carbide blades or inserts? And how well does it Work?

Thanks for any info

Ken

Brian, if I am not mistaken the washers in the corners of your jig boxes are so you can mount them to the wall in your shop so you will always have a place to store your jigs.

Ken

Jeff, thanks for the reply and after all these years of sharpening I've never run across a blade that can't be sharpened unless it's totally ruined by excessive heat or it's warped or just to damaged. But as you see below it sounds like these baldes are so touchy that if you haven't sharpened them before you could mess up a set. I can't believe they are that critical that you have to use chrome polish or rouge and a buffing wheel. Most of the forums I've read suggest this and it just seem's that the angle must be super critical. The steps below are from one of many forums about sharpening ice auger blades. By the way, thanks for selling a great product I have already put fantastic edges on tools that I thought were sharp and found out different.

1.   Step 1
Use a polisher to sharpen your blades. You need a flannel polishing disk and rouge cutting grit to use with a bench top or hand held polisher. These can be purchased at a local automotive supply retailer.
2.   Step 2
Use a felt tip marker to mark the area of the blade that needs sharpening. Polish an area only long enough to remove the marker ink from the blade. This helps prevent you from cutting too much from the blade and changing it's cutting angle.
3.   Step 3
Apply a liberal amount of the rouge cutting grit to the flannel.
4.   Step 4
Lightly polish the beveled side of the auger blade, concentrating on the leading edge of the blade. Don't spend too much time on one area, or you could cut too much material from the blade and change it's shape

Has anyone used their Tormek for Ice Auger Blades? I have a few customers wanting to know if I am able to sharpen them and from what I have read it sounds like they can be a problem.