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This website is without pictures but it has lots of useful information comparing the older jigs and accessories to the new new ones, and listing them all. From there you could type the jig's model number into a search engine and find pictures of it. (BTW, I also bought my Tormek in 2002).

There are lots of websites with photos of the jigs. Just do a google search for tormek jigs. Here's one.

I have an older Tormek, a 7 I believe,

Is it blue or green?

About the adjusting stone, what difference is that from a regular dual grit wetstone?

The SG grindstone can be graded with the two-sided stone grader to either a coarse or find grit. That grindstone alone is sufficient, especially for a beginner. I wouldn't invest in the SJ grindstone unless for some reason I found the SG unsatisfactory.

I sharpen all kinds of hand tools, mower blades, and kitchen knives. Been doing it for 23 years and have never had the need for anything other than the SG grindstone.

In my opinion it just doesn't pay to get a tool or a knife any sharper than what I get with the combination of the SG and the leather honing wheel. Not for my needs, anyway.

You should definitely call Tormek support and report this issue. They will be responsive and helpful and will work out a solution for you.

The MSK-250 mentioned in the previous post is an innovation that came along during the many years you had your T7 stored in your shed. It's essentially a different way of locking the wheel in place without using a wrench. Tormek support may offer to send you one for free, or they may have a different solution to your problem. I'm stumped because my Tormek is even older than yours, locked the wheel with the same nut as yours, and I never had this problem.

There's a washer on the main shaft that separates the wheel from the body of the Tormek. It sounds as if you don't have that washer installed. Take the wheel off and see if there's a washer behind it.

Also, you haven't by any chance installed the wheel inside out?

Wondering if a supergrind 2000 is worth it these days for $400? Comes with a fair number of accessories.

A resounding yes from me. Mine was purchased in 2002 and is still running strong. Improvements in jig design and new jigs will still fit it.

For example, many years ago when I saw the then-new micro adjust feature for the Universal Support Bar (USB) I had the option of buying the new USB or modifying mine. I chose the latter, threading the shaft and buying a nut as the micro adjuster. It's still working many years later, and I've even refined it by cementing the nut into a juice cap cover, and then filing flat the face of the threaded shaft that faces the set screw. Give it a start and it spins on its own. Yankee ingenuity, don't ya know!

The reason for a small platform is being able to sharpen the full length of both bevels without needing to reposition the jig.

Multiple knives, too. I'll often sharpen several knives, all at the same bevel angle, without having to reposition the jig.

Too bad the Torlok feature is patented. I wonder when the patent will expire.

No additional platform is needed.

Nice!

I would like to update my post by including a very recent variation on your small platform. Rich Colvin sent me a 3D printed version of the small platform. It strikes me as a very practical use of 3D printing for the Tormek. Rich plans to share the plans on his Sharpening Handbook. I believe he also plans to make completed platforms available at a very reasonable cost in both 40 ad 50mm widths. This strikes me as a logical development of a very good idea.

That does sound good. Does this platform still require the scissors jig base, or is it stand-alone?

Hmmm... The platform jig is not included!

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,1560.0.html

It looks like the knife will retain its sharpness well and is likely very corrosion resistant. These two properties mean the knife will be hard to sharpen. This is okay if you have access to a shop with a Tormek machine, but not if you're out on the battlefield. 

Remove the honing wheel to expose the nut behind it. Remove that nut and you can take out the grindstone along with the main shaft. Finally, separating the grindstone from the main shaft may or may not be difficult. Depends on how much rust has accumulated. I broke my grindstone removing it, but the accumulation of rust was my own fault for not doing proper maintenance.

Some have reported using penetrating oil to get it loose.

I haven't decided yet if I will add a SJ-250 to my T8 setup, but I'll report back if I do.

I've considered it, and even had an offer of a free loan. But I decided it just wouldn't be useful to me. I sharpen kitchen knives, pocket knives, chisels and other tools including lawn mower blades. I too am a DIY'er. I bought my Tormek in 2002 and am on my third SJ-250 grindstone. I really have no need for any other grindstone.

It could be that SJ inventories are too high. In other words, they made more than they can sell and now they're taking up valuable space in warehouses.

I've always considered them to be overkill. But I'm not a blade afficionado. I buy inexpensive knives and as far as I'm concerned I keep them sharp enough for use. To me they're tools, not show pieces. I could get my knives sharper and better looking with a SJ, but all that extra effort and expense is lost as soon as the knife is used a few times. That's what I think, anyway. I could be wrong.

So to correct my wheel, I would need to give more money to Tormek...

How so? If you don't have the truing tool, it's a necessity. Even if you had had great success out of the box, you would still need the truing tool very soon. As soon as a grindstone begins to show signs of being out of true, it needs to be immediately trued to minimize acceleration of the problem. In other words, continuing to use an out-of-true grindstone will make it much worse much faster.

Regardless of all that, contact Tormek about your problems. They will make it right. You will not have wasted your money.