Messages

Welcome to the forum, Enrico. You will need a black Sharpie type marker and a small square. Blacken the bevel of your chisel and hand push or turn on your motor for just enough time to remove the marker. Remove the jig and examine the grinding marks with your square. If they look square, you are ready to go. If not, adjust the two knobs and repeat the test procedure. Do not proceed to full sharpening until you are square. Leaving out the testing lengthen your sharpening time and shortens your chisels. This procedure will soon go very quickly. Start with a chisel around 3/4" (19mm). It is an easier learning size.

This Tormek video shows an excellent tip. Here is a link:
https://www.youtube.com/live/8uLMWXqobRM?is=K6kMw3zHDeyxdIGW

Keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Wallbc. My standard go to reference for drill bits is Leonard Lee's Sharpening book. Leonard Lee, now deceased, was the founder of Lee Valley tools. I have long recommended his Sharpening book as part of the standard part of every sharpener's home library. His advice is to acquire a set of quality US made standard hss bits. Here is a link:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/32241-triumph-hss-twist-drill-sets

I have dealt with Lee Valley for many years and have always found them honest and dependable with excellent service. They also have locations in many countries. The standard set should serve your needs.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Apex 56.

I reached out to Samuel at Tormek, who did the T1 online class. In his reply, Samuel wrote that he consulted with support who suggested that you send them a short video ([email protected]).

Please keep us posted.

Ken

Years ago, on bessex, the edge on up (BESS) forum, we had a similar discussion. We referred to the last burr as toothiness. While some applications favor a toothy edge, many work best with a smooth edge.

Ken

The debate about measuring to wheel or to frame remains puzzling to me. Based upon Dutchman's original tables, I have always measured to the wheel. This simple measurement works the same with either my T8 or T4. I hold Wootz (Vadim) in high regard and he used the frame measurement. I suspect either will work. Consistency is the key.

It would be nice if the user could choose either option.

Ken

Herman is our forum expert on frozen grinding wheels. I was a late comer and did not arrive until 2009, when the shaft on my T7 was the pre EZYlock straight stainless version. I did encounter the the extended dampness problem when I returned my SJ-250, which I thought had dried, to its cardboard box. The box was not ruined, however, it was worse for the wear. After trying several options, I decided on printing the 3D plan from Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook. They come in two sizes (250 mm and 200mm). They are non absorbant, joinable, and provide safe, ventilated storage.

Ken

Good question, Dan. I will share the only correct reason I use. It is based on a test group of one, me. I have to move my Tormek around quite often. As a senior citizen, I am not as strong as in younger days. Although it makes an extra trip, removing the grinding wheel reduces the weight by half.

I believe the original Tormek design philosophy was to just leave the grinding wheel in place. However, even in the earlier pre EZYlock days, Jeff Farris, who demonstrated the Tormek throughout the US, always removed his grinding wheels before traveling town to town.

In truth, I don't know that it much matters much as long as the wheel and machine are stored clean and dry.

Ken

Interesting idea. Hügo.The two Eastman Kodak scientists who invented Kodachrome had to work in complete darkness. They were both orchestra players who used memorized classical music passages to time different parts of the process.

When I worked long sessions in my home photo darkroom, I used to enjoy listening to National Public Radio (US), especially the Prairie Home Companion.

Ken 

Welcome to the forum, Pkern. You should file a damage claim with the shipper and advise your dealer. I would suggest that you also email Tormek support ([email protected]).

I regret not having done this when my Tormek Work Station arrived dented during shipping. Tormek is a first-rate company with outstanding customer service. You should not accept a new product damaged in shipping.

Please keep us posted.

Ken

Kingken and Jimmyboy.

I apologize for my delay in replying to your posts. While your posts are not identical, I believe one more in depth reply will be more effective than individual replies. Individual issues can be covered in follow up replies.

For several years  I sharpened only chisels and hand plane irons. Eventually I added knives; however, chisels and plane irons have always been my first love. Some basic guidelines:

I will concentrate on chisels for simplicity. As chisels are generally made from high carbon steel, I will concentrate on the SG grinding wheel. Proper chisel sharpening includes flattening and polishing the back of the chisel; however, this is well covered elsewhere, so I will only mention it briefly here.

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened. This is the point to discuss the stone grader. Use the coarse side of the stone grader until the bevel is sharp and ground square. At that point, use the fine side of the stone grader to refine the scratch pattern of the bevel. Do not remove the chisel from the jig until sharpening is complete. Removing the chisel will introduce set up errors which will increase grinding time and wear on the tool and the stone.

I consider grinding wheels to be long  time consumables, like brake parts.

Sequencing can save you much frustration. The quarter inch chisel can be the most difficult to grind square. Your widest chisel can be very time consuming to grind. Start with a chisel in the half to three quarter inch range. Start with a chisel mostly square and not too dull. You will want to have a black marker and a small square.

Tormek makes a very effective (
patented) set up accessory which will speed up your set up time. The TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter was originally designed to set up turning tools. It also works very well with setting up chisels and planes. The A and B holes standardize setting up the distance between the grinding wheel and the support bar. The two patented metal wheels autocorrect grinding wheel wear. After setting up one chisel twelve years ago, I have not needed to setup any chisels since then.

Set up in good light and do not be in a hurry. Enjoy the process.
Keep us posted.

Ken

I agree with Haio Paio. Email support ([email protected]). Capacitor problems are not uncommon with twenty year old machines and are usually corrected.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:

I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22  as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b


Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range  is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Today's mail brought a package from Rich Colvin. Rich is one of only four forum members I have had the pleasure of meeting personally. (We both live in the Columbus, Ohio area. We are also both Tormek Ambassadors.) He is skilled in woodturning, machinist work and 3D printing and runs his Sharpening Handbook.

Rich and I have traded packages over the years. Today's package included several 3D printed spacers with the modified indenture. He also included three clever grinding wheel holders in both 200 and 250mm sizes.

Time will tell if there is a problem with wear with the spacers. In my case, in recent years my shop time has been very limited. I do not foresee much of a problem. If so, I may pursue alternative print media.

I have long recommended getting to know a local machinist and/or someone with a 3D printer. I have had several SVM jigs and my DBS-22 jig modified by machinists. These modifications were not expensive.

Rich's Sharpening Handbook includes several useful accessories for the Tormek. I suggest checking it out.

Ken

Dutchman,

Mea culpa. I did not mean to overlook your tables. Speaking for myself. Your tables have always been my go to choice. They have always also been the basis for my kenjig, another option I did not mention.

Your tables have been the inspiration for all of the various apps which have followed.

Ken

The KS-123, Calcapp, and a Sharpie are all either low cost or no cost options. why not learn all three?

Ken