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Like many of us, I experienced frozen EZYlock several years ago. I finally resorted to using my Channelocks. I was fortunate that my problem was fixed without damaging my grinding wheel. (This is NOT a recommendation to use Channelocks!)

I have always been careful in not leaving my grinding wheel in the water trough. Also, I always remove my grinding wheel after each sharpening session. Having noticed several posts with this problem over the years, I emailed Mats in support. Mats is Tormek employee number six. With his years of experience and dedication, I believe that no one understands the Tormek more than he does.

Mats devised a series of tests to determine what might make the EZYlock fail. With no grease on the spacer, he could get an occasional EZYlock failure. With a light coating of grease on the face of the spacer FACING AWAY FROM THE GRINDING WHEEL, he could not produce a failure. I believe this is the key to unlocking the problem.

For those who do not remove the grinding wheel regularly, I suggest loosening the EZYlock before each sharpening session. This starts each session with no residual thread resistance.

Ken

See more details in Tormek General subforum.

Ken

I received an email today from Sharpening Supplies advising me about a limited time 10% sale on T8 and some T1.

Ken

Tgbto,

I agree that the KS123 is very useful for low volume sharpening, which, I suspect, is what most of us really do.

My question is, if the KS123 is not satisfactory for high volume such as "weekend warrior" farmers market sharpeners, what is satisfactory? Remembering designing the kenjig, the two major components of sharpening were the grinding wheel and the knife set up. Any modification to either could not negatively impact the quality of the sharpening.

The kenjig is not limited to just one bevel angle. setting up for more than one angle just requires making extra jigs. This is no big deal, either is construction time or cost. It will lengthen then sharpening time somewhat.

The real time constraint is the variety in the width of knives. Wein the real world, where most customers will bring in knives of varying widths.

Ken

Good question, Bobi.

Here is how I solved the riddle with my T2: While the angle setter on theT2 (and T1) may seem problematic, once you figure it out, it is really quite simple. Don't worry about breaking it or putting it together incorrectly. Take it apart and then reassemble it several tomes. It is actually easier than a soldier field stripping his rifle, and you have no drill sergeant looking over your shoulder.

You will master this task in a very few minutes! (If I could do it, you certainly can.)

Ken

I am always concerned with what new readers who have not yet acquired much background in Tormek sharpening will absorb from our posts. I would use the research our late member Wootz (Vadim of Knifegrinders Australia) did with the meat packing factories in Sydney. I admire Wootz and his work. However, like many other experienced forum members, Wootz' industrial sharpening schedule was far more intense than mine. I suspect the meat packing knives that Wootz sharpened were probably sharpened more often in a week than most of us do in a year. I expect our regular members to be aware of this. I am not certain that many of our new members and guests are aware of this.

Ken

To borrow a phrase from Wolfgang, making your custom of making the final adjustment by raising the microadjust will serve you well. In itself, it may not be a big deal; however, small improvements compound.

Ken

I learned a new word, "hysteresis". I have known about the effect of "thread slop" on adjusting screws for many years. I first encountered this with the depth adjusting screw of bench planes. For accurate measurement, the final step should be a slight tightening of the screw to leave some load on the threads. This situation occurs even with the adjustment wheels of high quality machinery such as metal lathes. Experienced machinists make this adjustment automatically.

The Tormek online classes mention this in passing, although they have never explained why this happens. The compensation necessity is not caused by the KS-123. It is caused by the threads of the microadjust. It is not a design defect with the microadjust; it is just the nature of the beast with adjustment screws. And, on a practical basis, it is not really a problem with Tormek sharpening, especially with good technique. Use the microadjust by lowering only for rough adjusting. Make the final, more precise adjustment only by raising it.

Ken

When I was developing the kenjig, I wanted to standardize on a single bevel angle. The kenjig was designed primarily for sharpening everyday kitchen knives. I asked Stig to suggest an angle. He suggested 15° (degrees per side). While I have occasionally experimented with 12°, based on Wootz' recommendation, 15° has remained my go to setting.

As an update, with the advent of the KS-123, I no longer use the kenjig. In my opinion, the kenjig was a sound idea. I feel the same way about the various apps. I just believe that the KS-123 is an improvement, whether we choose to vary angles or stick with our "go to" standards.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Jack.

The Tormek machines do not leak. However, there can be some spillage. Years ago, I spent a full day observing the Tormek demonstrators at a woodworking show. I paid particular attention to the amount of spillage throughout the day. The Tormeks were set up on a very expensive new Swedish workbench, with only a single layer of cardboard to protect the bench stop. I was surprised that only a few drops of water spilled out during the day. I attributed this to several things:

1) There was only enough water in the water trough for efficient wet grinding. The SG-250 will absorb water until it is saturated. At saturation, no more water is needed. As a lifelong photo darkroom user, I habitually use graduates. Inexpensive plastic kitchen graduates work well. Turn on your Tormek and pay attention to how much water is needed to reach absortion. Overfilling will cause spillage.

2) Spillage can happen when dumping the water trough. One of our members came up with a clever, inexpensive solution. A grocery store turkey baster makes a very good siphon. I siphon the water into a recycled plastic peanut butter jar. Imop up the last bit of water and the grinding sludge with a paper towel and rinse out the trough.

3) The tools you sharpen can influence spillage. Narrow blades, like chisels and plane irons keep the sharpening over the trough. Longer knives hang over outside the trough. The Advanced Water Trough has a wider lip and a ramp to catch the spillage. If you sharpen primarily woodworking tools, the regular trough works fine. For an occasional longer knife, a paper towel next to your Tormek will get the job done. If you decide to purchase an AWT, make sure to choose the version for the older machines.

In defense of the expensive Tormek Rubber Work Mat, it is a marvelous luxury. It is thick rubber and manufactured by the same company which makes the tires for the Land Rover. It is a joy to use. That stated, an inexpensive plastic tray will suffice. If I was going to make a stand, I would size the top to accommodate the Tormek RWM whether it was in hand or a possible future purchase.

Enjoy your T2000. It should serve you for many years.

Ken

Bpalv,

I found this article by our late member, Wootz (Vadim of Knifegrinders).

Ken

phttp://knifegrinders.com.au/06Procedures_ceramic.htm

Welcome to the forum, Johanna.

I do not presently have access to my sharpening area presently, so I am operating on memory. Several years ago, I could not understand why the handbook stated that honing could only be done freehand with the T4. Upon my T4 and SVM-45, I found the problem and the solution. The plastic locking knobs on the knife jig and the horizontal support bars prevented the knife jig from moving smoothly across the support bar. Switching the plastic locking knobs with grub screws corrects most of the problem. I found that I needed to grind just a little off the knife jig. This is easily done with the T4. Your local hardware store should carry the M6 grub screws.You will need a metric Allen wrench for this. The metric wrench set costs around $10US. Three M6 grub screws cost around $5. A more elegant solution is an MB-102. For a very occasional long knife with your T4, the grub screw solution will work. The MB-102 or a regular frontal vertical base will do the same function more efficiently, but at considerably higher cost.

For longer knives, like your 10" knife, you will also need a US-430 to handle the extra blade length.

If this does not solve your problem, please post again. We will solve this.

Ken

For those with a deeper interest in twist bits:

https://youtu.be/E02vkgwyzjw?si=qLfyFYfjoE2z7zOj

Ken

I like Ukulele Jay's videos. He is an experienced barbecue chef who sharpens his own knives, an ideal T1 user. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/CRoeRtjUymE?si=T7RUW27F0u-12gAe

Ken

The Anglemaster, being a Tormek product, is calibrated to the standard 250mm Tormek grinding wheels. If the oversize difference with CBN wheels bothers you, take a millimeter reading of their diameter and make a fine sharpie line. Your guess will be close enough.

Ken