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Herman is our forum expert on frozen grinding wheels. I was a late comer and did not arrive until 2009, when the shaft on my T7 was the pre EZYlock straight stainless version. I did encounter the the extended dampness problem when I returned my SJ-250, which I thought had dried, to its cardboard box. The box was not ruined, however, it was worse for the wear. After trying several options, I decided on printing the 3D plan from Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook. They come in two sizes (250 mm and 200mm). They are non absorbant, joinable, and provide safe, ventilated storage.

Ken

Good question, Dan. I will share the only correct reason I use. It is based on a test group of one, me. I have to move my Tormek around quite often. As a senior citizen, I am not as strong as in younger days. Although it makes an extra trip, removing the grinding wheel reduces the weight by half.

I believe the original Tormek design philosophy was to just leave the grinding wheel in place. However, even in the earlier pre EZYlock days, Jeff Farris, who demonstrated the Tormek throughout the US, always removed his grinding wheels before traveling town to town.

In truth, I don't know that it much matters much as long as the wheel and machine are stored clean and dry.

Ken

Interesting idea. Hügo.The two Eastman Kodak scientists who invented Kodachrome had to work in complete darkness. They were both orchestra players who used memorized classical music passages to time different parts of the process.

When I worked long sessions in my home photo darkroom, I used to enjoy listening to National Public Radio (US), especially the Prairie Home Companion.

Ken 

Welcome to the forum, Pkern. You should file a damage claim with the shipper and advise your dealer. I would suggest that you also email Tormek support ([email protected]).

I regret not having done this when my Tormek Work Station arrived dented during shipping. Tormek is a first-rate company with outstanding customer service. You should not accept a new product damaged in shipping.

Please keep us posted.

Ken

Kingken and Jimmyboy.

I apologize for my delay in replying to your posts. While your posts are not identical, I believe one more in depth reply will be more effective than individual replies. Individual issues can be covered in follow up replies.

For several years  I sharpened only chisels and hand plane irons. Eventually I added knives; however, chisels and plane irons have always been my first love. Some basic guidelines:

I will concentrate on chisels for simplicity. As chisels are generally made from high carbon steel, I will concentrate on the SG grinding wheel. Proper chisel sharpening includes flattening and polishing the back of the chisel; however, this is well covered elsewhere, so I will only mention it briefly here.

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened. This is the point to discuss the stone grader. Use the coarse side of the stone grader until the bevel is sharp and ground square. At that point, use the fine side of the stone grader to refine the scratch pattern of the bevel. Do not remove the chisel from the jig until sharpening is complete. Removing the chisel will introduce set up errors which will increase grinding time and wear on the tool and the stone.

I consider grinding wheels to be long  time consumables, like brake parts.

Sequencing can save you much frustration. The quarter inch chisel can be the most difficult to grind square. Your widest chisel can be very time consuming to grind. Start with a chisel in the half to three quarter inch range. Start with a chisel mostly square and not too dull. You will want to have a black marker and a small square.

Tormek makes a very effective (
patented) set up accessory which will speed up your set up time. The TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter was originally designed to set up turning tools. It also works very well with setting up chisels and planes. The A and B holes standardize setting up the distance between the grinding wheel and the support bar. The two patented metal wheels autocorrect grinding wheel wear. After setting up one chisel twelve years ago, I have not needed to setup any chisels since then.

Set up in good light and do not be in a hurry. Enjoy the process.
Keep us posted.

Ken

I agree with Haio Paio. Email support ([email protected]). Capacitor problems are not uncommon with twenty year old machines and are usually corrected.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:

I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22  as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b


Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range  is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Today's mail brought a package from Rich Colvin. Rich is one of only four forum members I have had the pleasure of meeting personally. (We both live in the Columbus, Ohio area. We are also both Tormek Ambassadors.) He is skilled in woodturning, machinist work and 3D printing and runs his Sharpening Handbook.

Rich and I have traded packages over the years. Today's package included several 3D printed spacers with the modified indenture. He also included three clever grinding wheel holders in both 200 and 250mm sizes.

Time will tell if there is a problem with wear with the spacers. In my case, in recent years my shop time has been very limited. I do not foresee much of a problem. If so, I may pursue alternative print media.

I have long recommended getting to know a local machinist and/or someone with a 3D printer. I have had several SVM jigs and my DBS-22 jig modified by machinists. These modifications were not expensive.

Rich's Sharpening Handbook includes several useful accessories for the Tormek. I suggest checking it out.

Ken

This topic has been moved to Drill Bit Sharpening.

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=6111.0

Dutchman,

Mea culpa. I did not mean to overlook your tables. Speaking for myself. Your tables have always been my go to choice. They have always also been the basis for my kenjig, another option I did not mention.

Your tables have been the inspiration for all of the various apps which have followed.

Ken

The KS-123, Calcapp, and a Sharpie are all either low cost or no cost options. why not learn all three?

Ken

While I am not familiar with all of the programs, I have been very satisfied with CB's Calcapp. It is straightforward and easy to use.

You might also want to try using the marker method and the KS-123.

Ken

I do not own a goniometer. However, I would be less concerned with a consistent 1° difference in readings than with an inconsistent difference. Adjusting the reading on the KS-123 by 1° would be a consistent fix. Mariners use correction factors with their charts and magnetic compasses.

When I visited Tormek in Sweden in 2023, I participated in thr planning committee during the prototype development stage of the KS-123. It went through extensive testing and evaluation. A consistent 1° difference would have been a very easy fix just by repositioning the angle scale slightly.

I will investigate this further with support and post any new information.

Ken

Well done, Rich! This should solve the problem, with the added bonus of being very cost effective. Just one modified spacer should suffice.

I like the 3D printed idea. The original pattern would print quickly and work even with smaller printers. Plus, the pattern could be easily modified to make spacers of different thicknesses. (I am thinking of adapting Norton 3X wheels with one inch thickness and one inch bore.) While everything is set up, I would suggest making up a few spares. They would be useful and inexpensive gifts for Tormek friends.

An alternative plan would be to modify a Tormek spacer. I purchased a couple as spare parts for projects several years ago, although the original spacer would also work. Dishing out a spacer would be an easy project for a home shop machinist of local machine shop.

Again, good thinking, Rich!

Ken

I have been closely following this forum since 2009. This posting is the first I have noticed on this issue in that time. The spacer has not changed. The shaft was changed to stainless steel many years ago., as was the conversion to the EZYlock.

Anyone who has experienced a frozen EXYlock (which includes me) would consider a sliding spacer as a minor nuisance. Noticing occasional frozen EZYlock posts over the years, I sent an email to support requesting advice. Support really went the extra mile. They ran tests and discovered that they could get the EZYlock to fail, IF there was no grease on the face of the spacer facing away from the grinding wheel. Putting a thin coating of grease on this face eliminated the failure. Problem solved.

How big of a problem is a sliding spacer? For the majority of Tormek's fifty years, there was only the SG wheel. Even today, with several wheels available, many users still choose to use only the SG, which remains the most versatile wheel. The wheels could be redesigned to incorporate built in spacers. That might solve the problem, but would increase the cost per wheel. How many users would be willing to pay the extra cost?

Ken