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Micro bevels are a common topic on the forum. Here are some thoughts:

https://youtu.be/zfcdQ3dZosM?si=FhpqvIvsaM5M8MuH

Ken

I spent a day with one of the top Tormek demonstrators. One of the tools he used was a Veritas PM-V11 chisel. The Tormek demonstrator spoke very of it. Good tools are lifetime investments. I would recommend the Veritas chisels. I would highly recommend favoring quality over quantity. Better two or three premium chisels than a set of average chisels.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Terry.

Please forgive a little linguistic housekeeping. "Planer" refers to the blades of electric thickness planers and electric jointers. This jig is the SVH-320 (shown in this link)

https://tormek.com/en/products/grinding-jigs/svh-320-planer-blade-attachment

Chisels and hand planes use the SE-76 or SE-77 Square Edge jig. Plane blades are often called "plane irons".

The best way to make sure a chisel edge is being ground square is to blacken the bevel with a marker. Then turn the grinding wheel by hand and check it with a small square. If you are not grinding square, tap the handle of the chisel lightly to eyeball it square. Get the grind square before completing sharpening.
This online class covers chisels:

https://www.youtube.com/live/wMATay8ITE8?si=_ecJHWJxUwEOyury

It sounds more tedious than it really is.

Keep us posted

Ken

The shaft circled in red, which is pRt of the SVD-185 and SVD-186 is generally called the SVD-180. TGBTO is correct.

Contact the donor. I suspectthe rest of the SVD-185 was inadvertantly separated from the rest of the kit.

Eventually, I believe you will want to upgrade to a SVD-186 or 186-Revised. In the meantime, if your Allen screw strips out, it is available as a spare part. If you need a replacement, email support (support@tormek.se).

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Tom.

No, I do not see an SVD-185 in the photos. Here is a link to the SVD-186R which replaced the SVD-185.

https://tormek.com/en/products/grinding-jigs/svd-186-r-gouge-jig

You might check with the person who made the donation. They might have just overlooked the SVD-185 and may be able to locate it.

If not, I would highly recommend choosing the much improved SVD-186R, especially for use with the T4. One of the several improvements is the shortened shaft, which works better with the T4. Another improvement is the more secure click stop swing adjustment knob. The older SVD-185 used an Allen head screw which was prone to stripping out. This can be problematic, especially with communal users.

Ken

I assume you mean ACC (Anti Corrosion Concentrate). My keyboard does the same thing. 

Tormek recommends it (primarily) for diamond wheels and also for any of the other Tormek wheels. Are you using it at the recommended dilution, one part concentrate to twenty five parts water? I suspect the exact ratio is not critical; however, I have always followed Tormek's recommendation.

I always rinse and dry my trough when I empty it.

I have never used the Trend lapping fluid, so I can't offer an opinion on it, pro or con. ACC offers corrosion, needed for the steel wheels. If left to aur dry, it also leaves corrosion protection for tools.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Steve, and kudos for volunteering at the non profit.

I think the DF-200 wheel is a logical choice for you.I have and like the T4. When Tormek designed the T2, which is specifically designed for commercial kitchens, it was designed for only the DF-200. (The original wheel designation was DWS-200. This was before Tormek introduced the other diamond wheels. The thinking was that the 600 grit was a good balance between fast cutting and a smooth finish. the DWC-200 360 grit was later added at the request of a large Swedish customer.

600 grit  wheel is provided with the T2, T1 and the Black 50 Year edition of the T8. I believe the DF-200 would serve you very well.

Make sure to use light grinding pressure. I recommend using ACC solution with water. A child's medicine graduate, inexpensive and available at a pharmacy or grocery store, plus a plastic peanut butter jar will serve you very well.
j
Please keep us posted.

Ken

PS I suggest you acquire the DF-200 before your SG-200 is worn out. The SG lets you add a small radius on the corners with the stone grader. This is useful in sharpening bird's eye shaped knives.

We would like to think we live in an exact world of numbers. The real world is either within or outside of tolerance. If our morning coffee is a pleasant temperature to drink, it is within tolerance. If it is too hot to drink or cold, it is outside of tolerance.  with sharpening, if a sharpening step takes too long, it is outside tolerance. If the operation takes too long, an exact grit number doesn't really matter.

We also live in a marketed world. Beginners usually gravitate toward products described as easy to use with minimal steps. Beginners do not have the knowledge to realize that superior sharpening results come from practice and effort.

Grit numbers are just one of several factors. They are also not static. They are variable. Experienced sharpeners just accept this and march on. The online classes teach that using the leather honing wheel with PA-70 after the SJ will remove the tiny burr created by the SJ. Without getting too deep into the weeds, that seems like a logical step to me.

Ken

I used to have a side business which included archival processing of black and white film and prints. This was low volume, labor intensive processing. Part of my conversation with potential customers was explaining why I needed to charge more than the local drug store. Some agreed, some went elsewhere.

Knife sharpening is the same kind of situation. We need to explain to potential customers why careful sharpening with a Tormek needs to cost more than "drug store" sharpening. Some will agree, some will go elsewhere.

As a suggestion, you might offer to sharpen one knife without charge. That might convince a doubting customer. If not, let them go.

Ken

Over the years, I have learned a lot from James Hamilton (Stumpy Nubs). This technique of grinding and using a blunt chisels couldn't be easier. Like most woodworkers, I have a number of spare chisels. Here isa link:

https://youtu.be/FFF1ekRg3bA?si=jTno8SJsRTHw72tm

Ken

I like the idea of a separate screw in shaft.

Ken

Width of jaws = 45mm

Interior length of adjustable end stop = 38mm

Length from end of jaws to adjustable end stop in neutral position = 120mm

Length from end of jaws to adjustable end stop minimal length = 113mmb

The SVM jigs made before had shafts which were 35mm longer. This extra length would be useful to keep paring knives at uniform Projection with wider knives.

i don't think exact measurements are critical for thesejigs.

Please keep us posted.

Ken

  Good point, Sarah.However, let's make it a better point. Instead of just charging say $10 to sharpen one drill bit, why not offer d volume discount, say $50 for six drill bits? Pick a number and price which sounds good to you. Most people cannot resist a bargain, especially for an honest service and price.

Ken

I do not sharpen for money, although I have a hobbiest curiousity in how sharpening services run and price their services. I found this video today and was impressed with the practical advice Warren Jones shares for local sharpeners.

https://youtu.be/-W67G4PHKnA?si=ExYo9oHh5zSrudy6

Ken

I have always considered the DB#-22 to be Tormek's most sophisticated, advanced jig. Those willing to put in the work of thoroughly understanding it and practicing with it will be richly rewarded, hopefully financially and certainly with a deeper understanding of the Tormek.

Ken