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Messages - Ken S

#1
I agree with checking with support.

The other thought I have is to check your water. I would pick up a gallon or two of distilled water from your grocery store. I would start with scrubbing your wheel with a scrubbing brush. When you are through sharpening, store your wheel dry.

Please keep us posted.

Ken
#2
Scissors Sharpening / Re: SC-60 Scissors Jig
January 27, 2026, 03:09:59 PM
Two things of note with Tormek platforms:
If you look through the bore, the hole is not round. There are two flat areas. Tormek calls these flats "Torlock", a patented feature for producing a tighter grip using less pressure. It really makes a noticeable difference.
The second thing of note is the thread size of Tormek locking screws. Tormek has standardized on M6 threads. This is a standard size readily available in a variety of styles in hardware stores. Those of us who modify our jigs (including me) tend to accumulate various M6 hardware.
#3
Scissors Sharpening / SC-60 Scissors Jig
January 25, 2026, 11:38:49 AM
My new SC-60 Scissors Jig arrived this past weekend. As with all of the redesigned Tormek jigs, the use of machined zinc make this jig mechanically an improvement over the older jig. Some of the design features make it quicker and easier to set up. For me, this puts it generally in a smaller category, being also recommended for those who have been in regular use by those who are already using the older jig. Those on tight budgets and/or rarely sharpen scissors will get along well with the older model.

I like the fact that it can be used both for scissors and as a platform with the T2.

Ken
#4
Magnus,

Whether you choose to order another T8 or not is entirely your decision. However, I would interject an observation into the conversation: An under appreciated aspect of Tormek is customer service. The warranty is "the real deal". I have followed numerous customer issues over the years which have been posted on the forum, including one issue of my own. When the issues have been handled through support, the service is generally above and beyond.

One of the joys of my visit to Tormek was getting to know in person team members I had previously known only through email. Among these new friends is the head of support. He is employee number six, and has been with Tormek since the early eighties. Anyone using a vintage Tormek, he was probably part of the team which built it. He is very conscientious and is also part of the design committee. 

Do keep us posted.

Ken
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: Vibrations tormek T8
January 23, 2026, 07:42:03 PM
Welcome to the forum, Magnus.

The noise with the T8 is usually with the lift mechanism of the water trough. If you remove the water trough, does the noise stop? Either way, your best solution is to email support (support@tormek.se). The noise is generally an easy user fix.

Keep us posted.

Ken
#6
Eric,

I am pleased to see that you posted this topic. One of the outstanding aspects of this forum is how some of our members have really gone above and beyond in expanding the frontiers in sharpening. Dutchman's bevel angles inspired numerous sharpening apps. Sadly, the work of members like Jan and Wootz was cut short by their passing.

Eric, I applaud you for picking up the torch to continue this work. There remains much work to be done. I will follow your work and others with great interest. Even though much of this work exceeds my needs, the rising tide raises all boats.

Keep up the good work.

Ken
#8
Magnus,

A couple factors which may or may not apply to your needs:

1)Do you presently have or plan to have an RT-180 revolving base? If so, you will need to make allowances for it.

2)How much space will you need for for working above your Tormek? If you need only
storage "cubby", you will need very little space. For grinding into the wheel, you will need more clearance.

Just considerations. . .

Ken
#9
Quote from: tgbto on January 09, 2026, 08:27:53 AMAs for the US-430 not being part of the standard T8 delivery, I think that's a bit cheap.

I was involved in both the reintroduction of the US-400 and the US-430 and would like to  share what I learned from these processes:

The US-400 was originally part of the T-400, a specialized machine specifically designed for sharpening kitchen knives. The frame was longer than the standard Tormek. The longer  frame and the longer US-400 accommodated longer knives. Wootz (Vadim of Knife Grinders) was the first member to post about the US-400. He located and purchased one in Italy, quite a feat as Wootz lived in Australia. A small group of us, represented by forum member and Tormek dealer, Steve Bottorff, asked Tormek CEO, Håkan Persson to consider reintroduce it. Håkan agreed to produce a limited run. As I recall, it was for fifty units. These sold out quickly.

I emailed Håkan, suggesting that the US-400 would be amore useful tool if the legs were longer to accommodate taller cleavers. Håkan liked the idea and the US-430 was born and gifted me one of the first ones. I do not know whether I was the only one to make the suggestion.

The US-400 was never intended to be used with the regular Tormek models, even though it is compatable with them. The longer support is really only used in sharpening longer knives. Just as those who sharpen  knives exclusively occasionally complain about having  to pay for including the SE-77 with the T8, woodworkers might complain about paying to include a US-430.

I would classify the US-430, along with the rotating base and rubber work mat, as useful accessories where there is a need.

Ken
#10
Wim,

You ask a very practical question. In the real world, I suspect most of us sharpen mostly midrange knives.I had the good fortune to watch Tormek expert, Stig Reitan, for a couple days. Stig has sharpened countless medium grade knives when demonstrating for Tormek using a T8 with an SG-250 and a leather honing wheel with Tormek PA-70. At home, he keeps his wife's Japanese knives sharp and well honed with a T-4, SG-200, and leather honing wheel with PA-70.

Stig is the master of pressure control, from heavy pressure for heavier grinding to finishing with very light strokes. He uses the stone grader more often and more skillfully than anyone I have met.

Ken
#11
As you say this issue is just with longer knives, I suggest that the standard universal support is not long enough. The extended range US-430 support should solve your problem. Having a second universal support will be useful many times. Here is a link:

https://tormek.com/en/products/accessories/us-430-extended-universal-support

Ken
#12
Knife Sharpening / Re: Toremk stone
January 07, 2026, 07:29:44 AM
Sir Amwell captured my thought: "This is interesting".

I believe the SG has several underappreciated advantages. Unlike diamond or CBN superabrasive wheels, the abrasive runs all the way through the useful range of the wheel. Yes, the wheel does need occasional truing and dressing. Or, this could be restated to saying that the SG can be trued and dressed. For the majority of the fifty years of Tormek, this was never a big deal.

Along with truing and dressing, the SG can also be reshaped. The most common uses of this feature is putting a radius on the two corners of the wheel and grinding out chips in the wheel. I now make radiused corners on my SG as part of routine mtce.

I think the Stone Grader is an essential feature. It allows one grinding wheel to serve as both a coarse and a fine wheel. I also think it was designed before superabrasive wheels were used. Our late member, Wootz, introduced using inexpensive diamond plates as a more versatile alternative. Here is a link to his video:


https://youtu.be/141hD1d1zj0?si=GiyEMIY2L1htLf03

I modified his method slightly by epoxying DMT file cards onto flat pieces of aluminum. A 24" piece from the hardware store can be cut into three pieces. Mounting this into a square edge jig keeps things square.

These diamond plates are inexpensive and available in different grits. I had no trouble resurfacing my SG smoother than "1000 grit" although 10k seems like an enjoyable pipe dream. These diamond plates work well with the SG, SJ and SB wheels. As Wootz noted, using them helps keep the wheel true longer.

Try it; I think you will like it.

Ken
#13
Knife Sharpening / Re: Toremk stone
January 06, 2026, 01:36:24 AM
I question the importance and accuracy of grit numbers with Tormek sharpening. The concept of being able to adjust the grinding surface of a single wheel finer or coarser seems very useful to me. The minimum and maximum numbers of 220 and 1000 seem a fictitious over simplification to me. I believe Tormek interjected them to make it easy for the typical user to understand with minimum/maximum thought. This seems like another example of trying to aligning Tormek wet sharpening with dry grinding and/or bench stone sharpening.

Smoother ground surfaces can be achieved by using lighter grinding pressure. Smoother honed surfaces can be obtained by moistening the composite wheel, lightening the honing pressure, or extending the honing time.

In the years since I joined this forum (2009), I have seen numerous sharpening  frontiers pushed back by forum members. We still have room to grow.

Inexpensive diamond cards are a good way to expand the grit range of the non diamond Tormek grinding wheels.

Ken
#14
Unclebuild,

"Tormek has several obsolete square edge jigs, with the SE-76 being a common older model replaced by the current SE-77, which offers cambering ability; even older models include the SVH-60, designed for thicker chisels and preceding the SE-76, with all these jigs designed for sharpening chisels and plane irons to a square edge, though the newer ones offer more versatile features."

I suspect your twenty year old jig is the SVH-60. one of the newer jigs would be easier to use.

Ken 

#15
Welcome to the forum, Martha.

If you hold your knife on a cutting board, looking at it from the side, you should not be able to see light under any part of it. If you do, you need to correct it. The area where the light shines through will not cut through properly. In English, we call this "the green onion effect". This is usually caused by the bolster of the knife protruding below the edge of the blade. This is corrected by grinding down the bolster. This should be checked and corrected as part of routine sharpening, although it is frequently overlooked. This can be done freehand. Wolfgang covers this in one of the advanced knife sharpening classes.

Please let us know if this does not correct the problem. We are here to help.

While you are reading this, may I ask a favor? Although I am a US native English speaker, I have some long ago background in Spanish and German. I am sensitive to the frustrations our members who are not native English speakers may have on the forum. The forum has grown from a primarily US based English speaking community to a much more global community. I welcome this growth, although it also brings some "growing pains". I  would welcome any suggestions you might have to make the forum more multilingual friendly. You may post them or send mea Personal Message