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I am in the same position:  good old Disston handsaws, some rust on them, arthritis in my hands, other demands on my time.  I read the Bad Axe website (http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/bad-axe-restoration-services.html) and they have what you want, I think.  Nothing there about US-only...   Try the Bad Axe site, check the instructions and prices (hopefully you get what you pay for at Bad Axe), test your saws and pack them per their instructions, and give it a try.  We would all like to hear how things turn out for you.   Good luck!

Good thoughts for all.  I think the best summary is from KSMIKE on an adjacent forum.  Look here:"Topic: SE-76 - random thoughts on grinding a square edge, and a slight modification."  I would like to suggest the following although I have not yet tried it.

1st, before mounting your blade use a little sharpie ink or machinist's layout fluid to coat the flat side of the blade in question (the non-bevel side).

2nd, using the long edge of the blade that will mount on the right side of the SE-76 and a good square that you have already checked, scribe a line across the blade.  This line should be square to the "reference edge" of the blade in question.  You may find that the original blade edge was further off a square line than you thought.

3rd, mount the blade into the SE-76 as described in an earlier comment.  Tighten the right-hand screw slightly and then tighten the left-hand screw sufficiently to get the top plate of the ST 76 in contact with the blade across the full width of the blade.

4th, work slowly on the coarse stone setting and then on the fine stone setting as needed.  As you do this, keep checking on the position of the blade edge with respect to the line in the marking fluid.  This will advise you on progress toward a square edge as you go, and you can adjust your approach to the grindstone accordingly.

I have not tested how the above recommendation works on a wet grinding stone.  I have used it on dry grinding stones to good advantage in the past.  It may be a month or so before I get a chance to do this for real on a Tormek machine.

While re-hanging, it's a  good time to really improve the cabinet carcase structure for the newer heavy loads.  I'm sure you know how to do this, by inserting plywood stiffeners in the back, using really strong lag screws and steel washers for hanging, etc.  Some attention to the shelves (bracing and cleats) and the base might be good to have, and some angle brackets too.  (Lesson from life for me...those planes, etc. are much heavier than Mom's china.)

Jeff's reference is to an "Easy-Out" tool. 

If you use Jeff's solution (a good expedient) then you should mark the shaft, wheel and both washers so you can re-assemble/re-mount the wheel in the same orientation.  Also remember the "hammer tap" when mounting on the old-style shaft.  Things have to be tight, but not toooo tight. 

I have no problem with my 2000, can't say about the new tray or a T-7.  I just carefully lift the tray (while holding it level, water runs downhill in my shop... ) off the brackets, move away from the frame about a half inch, and lower it under the wheel.

Seriously, I learned not to overfill the tray above the line marked inside.  Easy to do if you can't see it.  Also, after filling and starting a starting a dry wheel, you should check to be sure that you have enough water left in the tray to cover the wheel bottom...  My wheel will drop the water level almost to the point of clearing the water level in the first few minutes after start-up.  I refill it to the mark. Otherwise I found that I was not getting adequate water after about 30 minutes of operation.

I glued a strong rubber coated magnet (from Staples) to the outside of the tray to collect metal particles from the frass goo.  Works well for us old tray owners and reduces rust coloration of the wheel, but I still empty the tray whenever I use the Tormek. New trays come with magnets.  I also use a small towel under the wheel when the tray is not there so any drips are not problem.

Question for "thekeeper":  If you smile while using the garden hose to clean a tray full of frass, will it clean your teeth too?